Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) EGT's Still high after twins

[JHastings]

That sounds good. I will remove my injectors and do a compression test or whatever. i'll have to read up on that. As for setting my wastegate... what do you think of this? I am thinking of "T"ing into the wastegate actuator line inbetween the AFC and the wastegate and putting a needle vavle in the cab with and open ended line running out the needle vavle back outside into the engine compartment. Then simply replace the TST elbow by putting a straight elbow w/out an allen head on the back of the afc. Then I could determine how much boost signal goes to the wastegate actuator by bleeding it with the needle valve from in the cab and set my wastegate to where egt's are reduced the most, spool up is good, power best... ...



Think this will work?



Jamie

 

[JHastings]

Psyche... . Realized on my way home that this would just be another valet switch. How about a needle valve in series in between afc and wastegate? Anybody think a needle valve will work as a metering orifice?

Jamie

 

[JTroiano]

I woulds make sure to have a seperate line for your AFC. Have dedicated boost line for your waste gate. What happened when you had the wasted gate arm still hooked up and no boost line? Did the gate still open from back pressure? If it did, you could adjust the arm using the spring pressure. If you still want to use an adjustable boost fooler you can do a search online and make a homemade one with a ball bearing and spring. They work pretty good. Just get a few different springs so you can get the correct pressure. I just remembered, I think you can use a compressor air regulator also.



I would work on that mis and get your flanges all machined up correctly and then start messing with your boost. You know how to get the temps down. You need to fix all the little problems first to get a good base to tune the truck the way you want. You try and tune it know and then fix something and you have to tune it again,



There are a lot of others on this sight that have more experience with setting up the turbo's. Just have to get them to pipe up.



I wish I had enough money and time to mess around with the big turbo. I think a smaller exhaust housing or smaller turbo would work a little better.



Jon T

 

[JTroiano]

Set the gate to open (crack) around 25, full open by 40 psi! 35's are tough turbo's!



Jim



This guy knows his stuff.



He helped me years ago when i built my first truck.



Jon T

 

[JHastings]

Do you all just rig up a light to see the wastegate cracking and opening? Seems like there has to be a an easier way of doing this. I am going to go and borrow a lazer point temp sensor to see if I have a hot cylinder. I'm afraid that I do have a bad cylinder considering the trucks history as a great sled puller. However, I don't lose a lot of oil and don't have much coming out of the blowby tube...

 

[JTroiano]

Look for a cold cylinder. That means no fire.

 

[JHastings]

Good call. Does anybody know if NAPA or that kind of shop has a lazer temp deal for rent?

 

[JHastings]

Anyhow,
Built the wastegate control today and it works great. I kept the TST elbow since it has the small metering orifice in it for a reason. All I did was back the allen head bolt all the way out, but still blocking the hole on the tst elbow then ran vacume hose into the cab and through a needle valve and then back out of the cab to the wastegate. I have not mounted it on the dash and might just hide it in the ash tray since it will probably be a set it and forget it kind of thing, but it might be nice sometime in the future and it makes setting the gage a lot easier I am hoping. Still have not gotten it on a good hill to set it, but we'll see.

Jamie

 

[Extreme1]

Interesting thread! I use an air compressor and regulator hooked up to my wastegate to set it. To figure out which cylinder is missing, crack the injector lines loose one at a time with the engine running. (be careful, fuel at high pressure can go through your skin) The one that has problems will be the one that doesn't slow the idle speed. If you can track it to 1 cylinder, it will be a bad injector, bad cylinder in the pump or a bad cylinder in the engine. Hope for an injector, they are cheap and easy. Get a new copper seal for reinstallation. If it's not the injector, check the valve lash, there might be a tight one keeping the engine from holding compression. I had an idle miss and it was a bad cylinder in the injection pump.



Good luck!

 

[JHastings]

I will try that. BTW, took off my coldpipe today and there was oil in there! Not tons, but a good amount and there is oil coming from the compressor side of the HT3B. What is this? Bad seal? The compressor side is dry right? Must be a bad seal on the cartridge huh? Can't remember if this is brand new or rebuilt, but it looks brand new. Send it back?

Jamie