Here I am

Electric Brake Controllers

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Chrome rocker panels, PE box

Amsoil dual filter leaking

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just ordered a new car trailer with electric brakes and need to get a brake controller. A friend has that Kelsey Hayes with the remote actuator that you can hold in your hand and i'm probably going to get that one but wanted to make sure there wasn't something better out there. I know a lot of guys like the tekonsha sentinel what else should i look at?

------------------
2001 3500 QC 4X4 black sport, ETH & everything else except 4. 10s
 
d90- I had a tekonsha voyager- and a sentnel on my last two trucks didn't like their responce- my rv repair guru suggested the reese brakeman- i love it #ad
the controler can be mounted any where i have mine mounted so i can adjust it while i'm driving, so i can turn it down when in town or up when i'm on the freeway- and it's around $65. 00 it's on my best buy list #ad

------------------------
problem child-- 99 B2500 QC Slt Stock Puller- 2000 Cardinal 29rlb lx
 
I'll agree with dabubba, I too have the reese brakeman and am totally satisfied. Also I've had the Kelsey Hayes and have not been to pleased with it's performance or reliabilty. Just my two cents.
 
My truck has the factory hitch/wires set up.

Which chunk of wires under the dash are for the brake controller?

Nothing is labeled.
(bought the truck used 4 years ago)

------------------
'96 4x4, 2500 extended, 5-Stick, TST, big stereo, MP3 player, GPS, Kodiak Sidewinder steps.

http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
 
D90,

Opinions are like belly buttons... Everybody's got one. Here is mine:
I want a brake controller that uses pedal position, brake line pressure, or inertia to determine how large a signal to send to the trailer.

Most controllers today use a simple timer, increasing the trailer brakes the longer you have your truck brakes applied, no matter how hard you are pushing on the pedal. I don't want that type, because it will not: 1. smoothly release the brakes and, more importantly, 2. apply full trailer braking the instant the truck pedal is depressed. It should be obvious how this could be a real problem if you need to stop in a hurry.

It is virtually impossible to find brake controllers today that tap into a brake hydraulic line and use that as the signal for trailer braking strength. This is a good thing. That system could mess up your anti-lock truck brakes as well as provide a new set of fittings to leak. The one I had in my 1967 pickup (bought new — does that give you an idea of my age?) leaked onto the cab floor for all the years I owned it.

There is a controller available that uses pedal position, but I can't remember the name of it. Drivers who have tried it have liked it, but it had a couple of drawbacks to me. First, it is not popular, so service, parts, and advice would be hard to find. Second, it seemed to be a cumbersome installation. My general philosophy is that simpler is usually better.

An inertial controller measures how fast the truck/trailer combination is decelerating and sends a higher current to the trailer brakes when the deceleration is higher. These controllers are adjustable for maximum current (to allow for towing a flat-bed trailer empty as well as loaded) and sensitivity, which sets how much signal is commanded for a given deceleration.

The two inertial controllers I have used are the Hayes Micro Control and the Tekonsha Sentinal. Both of these controllers have the adjustments mentioned above and both will control from one to four axles. Most other inertial controllers are made for either 1-2 or 3-4 axles, and you have to choose which to install. I wanted more flexibility. Of the two, my favorite is the Tekonsha. It is quite a bit easier to set up and has the bonus of continuously testing your trailer brakes. This controller discovered a problem with one brake on a brand new trailer that would have otherwise gone unnoticed until something drastic occurred.

I'd recommend the Tekonsha Sentinal for the above reasons, but that's just my humble belly button... . I mean opinion.

Loren


------------------
2000 Quad Cab, 4x4, short bed, six-speed: U. S. Gear exhaust brake, MileMarker Select Drive viscous coupling, Velvet-Ride spring shackles, Painless Wiring circuit box, Optima yellow-top batteries, Super-Glide 5th wheel hitch, Reese folding ball gooseneck hitch, Drawtite front hitch receiver, Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller, Westin nerf bars, Clarion sound system
1995 Standard Cab, 4x4, long bed, automatic: Firestone Ride-Rite air springs, torque converter lock-up switch, 4" cat-back exhaust, Reese 20K 5th wheel hitch, Reese gooseneck hitch, Hayes Micro Control trailer brake controller, 100 gallon bed-mounted fuel tank with 12 volt electric pump & fill nozzle, Swiss Cap fiberglass cap
 
I must be the odd ball as I use a drawtite electronic brake controllor on my truck and have been happy with it.

------------------
2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, group, cab lights, Isspro Boost and Pyrometer gauges mounted on A-pillar, 4" JRE exhaust, BD exhaust brake. 22500 miles as of 11/11/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.
 
Based on what I've seen Hayes and Tekonsha are the only gyroscopic controllers, the rest are electronic delays. Big deal?
Gyros are moving parts and can fail, electronic delays are typically solid state electronics and some are even life time warranteed. I run a Tekonsha Sentinel, I like the gyro because it can compensate for an engine brake or compression braking, ie the pushing of the trailer w/o the brakes applied... meanwhile the electronic delays only work when you're on the brakes. I just like the idea of the trailer brakes working in with the engine brakes action when I'm not on the service brakes.

Just some food for thought.

Max
 
Mike; I thought we already were in products and accessories.
Bubba; I have a 97, my brake controller wires were tied up over the steering column, near the brake light switch. If you need wire colors, I can go and look.


------------------
1997 2500HD 4x4 Club Cab SLT,5 Spd, Rhinoliner, basically stock 4 now
 
D90Boy, Doug... , & Bubba... ,

I too have the draw-tite and like it. I am only pulling 6K Lbs. so I really can't give an opinion about heavier loads.
The 4-way connector is located directly above the 120(?) pin connector on the drivers side firewall in the cab.
If you need a wiring diagram for the Draw-Tite Activator II and have MS Excel e-mail me and I will forward mine.
Good Luck #ad


------------------
<font color=forestgreen>2000</font> DODGE <font color=forestgreen>RAM</font>, <font color=forestgreen>2500 HD</font>, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab, <font color=forestgreen>Forest Green</font>, Agate interior, Cummins ISB, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, 4-Wheel Anti-Lock, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin; DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under rail bedliner, VentVisors, Mud Flaps, & Mats.
<font color=forestgreen>After-market</font>: K40, Viperw/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Painless Wiring, HOWES, Liquid Glass #ad


[This message has been edited by BigDaddy (edited 12-03-2000). ]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Had the Draw-Tite electronic controller for one trip and its in a roadside garbage somewhere in B. C. #ad
That thing was totatlly useless IMHO. Creaping through town you have the trailer brakes lock up on a time ramp. Can't back the trailer up without always adjusting the darn thing. I like having my hands on the shifter and wheel, not the brake controller. Also in the backwoods trails where there are Texas gates, the delay would push me throught the thing then apply the brakes as the trailer crossed. What a dumb setup!!
Just for emergency braking alone they should be outlawed #ad
!!!!!
The Techonsha(sp) was adjusted when I installed and haven't touched it since. Steady braking no matter the situation.
I'll get off my soapbox... .

------------------
Jason Hoffman
Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", BD Injectors, Banks Pyro/Boost, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. 100W Drv,55W Fogs. 237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs.
Cummins Power Booster member.
The Original Turbo Diesel

Lil' Mack Pics
 
I have both the sentinal and the voyager. The voyager winds hands down. Smooth action. The sentinal was very jerky unless you turned it down-- then it did not do anything.

My twp cents.



------------------
2001. 5 3500 4X4 Quad Cab, ETH, Dark Garnet Red.
 
Question: back in the early 80's, I remember a controller that had a pedal over the brake pedal that you could use a heel-toe action on, thereby not using the truck brakes-just the trailer brakes, or, if you braked normally with your foot, then both truck and trailer brakes were applied as usual. Any of you oldtimers remember this and is it still available?? Can't remember the maker.

------------------
2001 QC,SLT,4x4,Cummins HO,6 spd. ,Dark Garnet/Pearl, all options but leather/snowplow/Sport, the elusive front license plate bracket,"Cup Smoothie" Autometer gauges on A pilar, LineX bed liner, Cobra CB,Westin nerfs, Power tailgate lock,auto on/off headlights, backup alarm, real backup lights. More To Come! Big Dog on the Mountain! Engineer Pass,Co.
 
One thing to note about the Tekonsha, especially the sentinel, the stock wiring for the controller is only 15amps and that's about what the wimpy gauge of wire's limit is. On may be better served making a seperate circut directly from the battery with a 20 or 30 amp circut breaker WITH THE APPROPRIATE GAUGE WIRE and GROUNDING DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY AS WELL. I haven't had a problem yet, but I bought an instal kit made by Redline from MARK'S RV just in case.

Good Luck

Max
 
The Tekonsha brake controller is a versatile one. It is therefore complicated. If you pull the same trailer all the time, then you adjust it once and leave it alone. Unlike the Hayes controller with its pendulum (inertial) adjustment sticking out the side, the Tekonsha is unlikely to be bumped out of adjustment by an errant foot.

There are two adjustments on inertial controllers, one for maximum brake current and another for the sensitivity of the inertial sensor. I pull several different trailers with my pickup, including a 14,000 pound fifth wheel, a 35 foot gooseneck enclosed car trailer (loaded and empty), and a 16 foot flatbed (loaded and empty). Every time I hitch up a different trailer I have to adjust the brake controller. Here's how I do it.

Pull the trailer at a slow speed and slide the controller manual brake control to full on. This should come close to locking the trailer brakes on a gravel or other slippery surface. On dry pavement, you should feel a good tug from the trailer brakes. If the braking is insufficient, adjust the current control up until you get the desired response. Caution: You never, ever, want the trailer brakes to lock up. If they do, the trailer will pass you (jackknife). The maximum braking should be low enough that the trailer brakes will never actually lock up on any surface you are likely to drive on.

Once the current is adjusted, again pull the trailer at a relatively slow speed and apply the truck brakes. The unit (truck and trailer) should slow at a rate that is comparable to what you would get with the truck alone at the same pedal pressure. If you don't get enough braking, turn the inertial sensitivity up until you do.

After the initial adjustments, you will find that you will still need to make some readjustments within the first few miles of pulling the trailer. I have found that with my heavier trailers I need to adjust the inertial sensitivity higher than I might otherwise in order to get sufficient trailer braking. With the empty flatbed, I adjust both the maximum current and the sensitivity much lower.

Inertial brake controllers are complicated enough that you will find that you will have to try different adjustments with your rig to see how each adjustment affects the braking. Experience is a good teacher. Don't be afraid to make minor changes and see how the trailer responds.

Other, time-based, controllers do not have the sophistication of an inertial controller so they are not as difficult to set correctly. On the other hand, they aren't as versatile either.

Loren
 
Davesdodge!

I had one of those pedal jobies. Can not remember the name but remember it took some getting used to applying the brakes because of the additional thickness. Worked great tho. Time is passing us by. Probably went by the way side due to some envisioned liability. Bugs me after 20 or 30 years something breaks and then you find out it is not manufactured anymore. Hang in there and try new things.
 
D90boy,

I have a pedal position controller that was mentioned. It's made by Jordan Research and their web site is Jordan Research
Couple of comments:
1. No it's not a plug and go unit. Read the instruction book, look at the unit and how it installs makes sense. 2. Once installed, calibration is very simple. 3. It doesn't have a the build up problem 'timer' controllers have. 4. Inclines and surging don't have an effect on it. 5. It acts as fast and as hard as your foot.

I'd be happy to answer any questions if you want details or observations. Just drop me an email.

------------------
<font color=#990000>~<font color=#990000> '99 2500 SLT <font color=#990000> ~ QC ~ 4X4 ~ LB ~ Auto ~ 4:10 LSD ~
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> BD E-brake<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> BD Autolock<font color=#00000> *<font color=#990000> Gear Vendor OD<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Jordan Research 2020 T-brake <font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Bullhide spray-in Line <font color=#000000>*
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> 2k Komfort 5'er - 9,700 lbs <font color=#000000> *
<font size=-2>... Lookin' for the 'RE' to go in front of my 'TIRED' so's I got more time to Play!... <font size=-1>


[This message has been edited by Rattlin (edited 12-06-2000). ]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rattlin, Just a couple of questions, I have thr traditional brake controller, I have heard of the pressure type and am wondering how you like it. Does it really work that much better? How hard was it to install? and last how much did it cost you? what wiehg of trailer do you pull and is it a bumper or 5th wheel? Thanks i think everyone would benefit formthis info.

98. 524V, qaud short bed, BD-Ex, Brake, power mod. towing 8,000#horse trailer over 9,000ft.
passes.
 
Check out the pic's on my install of the Jordan Research controller
My Pic's

Ron


------------------
Ordered on 2/7 in my driveway on 3/24 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto Cummins, 3. 54,Quad cab,Short Bed,Camel Leather, White Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group,A. R. E cap with rear door, 25'Dutchman camper
 
DaveDD,
I'll try to answer your questions:

1. This isn't a pressure type controller. The Jordan has a mechanical cable that connects to the brake pedal arm. The cable is purely mechanical. The cable movement rotates a rheostat in the controller. The more you press the brake, the more brake on the trailer. See Sandmann's pic #7.

2. Work better? I don't have any experience with the other types. My search for an over the pedal type is how I found this system.

3. It isn't difficult other than the cramp quarters under the dash. When I called to discuss the installaiton, Jordan sent me a manual to review. They were prompt in sending my unit. I've had it installed for a year and half.

4. I don't know the current price but it was about $150 at the time.

5. I have a 24ft 5th wheel with a GVR of 9700 #s. The truck and trailer were loaded when we moved from the NW. The wife was very comfortable in driving the rig at 65 mph. Only experiece before was a popup behind a full size van. The controller, if I remember correctly, handles up to three axles (can't get to the manual easily at the moment).

Two features I like: Indicator led when the trailer is connect properly and the digital display. With full gain and full pedal it give you a good indication if all brakes are activating. Once you set the gain and you record the value for dry pavement, it's easy to reduce the gain for slippery/wet conditions and then put it back.

Drawback for me - won't mount over the visor like I wanted.

Just research controllers like you would any other accessory for your wheels and buy what is best for you. For more info, just click on the Jordan name in my previous post.


------------------
<font color=#990000>~<font color=#990000> '99 2500 SLT <font color=#990000> ~ QC ~ 4X4 ~ LB ~ Auto ~ 4:10 LSD ~
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> BD E-brake<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> BD Autolock<font color=#00000> *<font color=#990000> Gear Vendor OD<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Jordan Research 2020 T-brake <font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Bullhide spray-in Line <font color=#000000>*
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> 2k Komfort 5'er - 9,700 lbs <font color=#000000> *
<font size=-2>... Lookin' for the 'RE' to go in front of my 'TIRED' so's I got more time to Play!... <font size=-1>

[This message has been edited by Rattlin (edited 12-10-2000). ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top