electric fans....?

[TxDieselKid]

Been thinking of doing this for over a year now, so anybody got any information? Anybody running one? If so are you happy with it, and what kind are you running?



I am thinking about this one... .

12'' fans. Requires 15-1/2''x26-1/4''x4-18'' mounting surface area. Pulls 2500cfm of air using 19. 5 amps.

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HERE IS THE LINK



Thoughts?



Andrew

 

[Chipstien]

What brand is that Andrew? I personally think the Horton is the safest bet. But hey, try it out and let us know. I'm sure you get some hot weather where you are.

 

[TxDieselKid]

It's a Flex-a-lite, they are a popular company. I'm sure that 2500cfm, is a little much, but when you want to cool it off, only the best will do right?



I have looked into the Horton, and want to see what else is out there first.

 

[Chipstien]

Thought I heard that a Rep from that company said that none of there fans are suitable for the Dodge Cummins application. Might want to double check on that.

 

[Cooker]

I think Eric "Diesel Sports Promotions" talked to a company (I don't remember who) rep out at SEMA and he said they did not offer a fan suitable for the Cummins.



With that said I know "Lsfarm", "Rob Thomas", and a few others are running electrics on their trucks without issues.



Flex-A-Lite make a 5200cfm fan also. In certain situations in a warmer climate, 2500cfm I don't think would be enough, but for driving empty I think it would be ok.

 

[rweis]

I think I remember a thread about running electric fans instead of the engine fan. I seem to remember that the engine fan generated something like 25000 cfm. I looked and there were no electrics that were even close.



I tried to find a horton for my 2002 and found out that DC and Horton had a falling out for the 2001 and 2002 something about DC would not give Horton the tech data Horton needed. However I think the 2003 has a electric clutch but of DC design.



I would LOVE to find a better way to cool the engine and transmission.



For the transmission, the best way I have heard to cool it is to upgrade it with a XXX rebuild so it does not build up so much heat from the TC slipping. Short of throwing $xxxx at upgrading the transmission (I have 12k miles on it) I am going to put a 25k engine 16 pass cooler on the hot line (engine because it is a AN-8 fittings, same for the transmission has AN-6 fittings) before the water heat exchanger to keep the transmission from heating the engine water as much. I am going to run the cooler fan off of a 180* fluid temp switch which will be on just about all the time, but should also help when backing my 5er.



I am also going to put an external transmission 13 micron filter in the transmission cooling system. Will keep the fluid cleaner and add about a gallon to the volume. I have done a fair amount of research on this one to find the highest temperature and pressure filter I could fine. The best turns out to be a Fleetguard that has a 250* working temp and a 200 psi working pressure. Max temperature is 275* and max pressure is 350 psi. The one I found is made with epoxy glues and therefore the higher working temps.



Also adding a mag-hytec 727 DD to try to keep the pan as cool as possible. Also changing the transmission fluid yearly to keep it fresh (loosening the VB to get the most fluid out of it).



Oh, took the one way check valve out of the transmission line as well. You just have to run idle in netural (not park as the stock VB does not circulate the lube circuit in park) for 40 seconds before you select a gear if it has been sitting long so the lube circuit will be fully charged.



Any other ideas you may have will certainly be welcomed, as I am trying to run the systems as cool as possible in the operating ranges.



To keep the engine cooler I have no idea other than the above. I would like to find a much better way to manage the engine fan and am open to any ideas.



Bob Weis

 

[TxDieselKid]

Great post, thanks.



I would really love to be able to turn it on and off when I need it, and free up about 10 more hp.



Andrew

 

[GotDodge]

DAWG-1 Runs a pair of electric fans. I think 5200cfm. Sweet set up.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54093&highlight=fan

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

11,500 CFM found



http://www.electricfanengineering.com/offroad.htm



EDIT: 100 Amp 30" @ 11,500 CFM



BTW Joseph Donnelly Nailed it in the above post I posted a while back And I still am thinking I am gonna go electric (Not Cause of gaining 4 hp but for the A/C system functionality alone)

 

[Cooker]

That fan draws a max of 100 AMPS That certainly would be a stress on the electrical system. Maybe you could make it a variable fan with a rheostat?

 

[TxDieselKid]

Great thread Tim, I tried a search, but wanted to see if anything had changed since then. Let me know if you ever do go electric.



Those bus fans are crazy.







Andrew

 

[rweis]

Could you just lockup the fan clutch so it runs all the time period? What would be the ramifications of that? If it only draws 4 hp and the goal is to have it draw at low mph and reasonablely higher rpm (ie 1,2,O/D out), just lockup or bolt the clutch permanently. As the mph goes up and the rpm stays approximately the same the hp load of the fan would seem to decrease since the air flow is greater comming in the front end.



Probably much to simplistic an approach.



I know when I tow I get the fan only at times as the temps edge up and would like to get the fan at all times and let the thermostat manage the engine temperature. Would cool the transmission ,A/C, Intercooler full time. Don't know what the consequences would be though.



Could you put a spacer on the stock fan that would hold at say 3. 5k rpm?, and not shear off (which would be a MESS)



If anyone has a bad clutch due to thermal fluid lock failure I would be willing to try to make it a permanent lock and run it.



Bob Weis

 

[RustyJC]

100 amps @ 12 volts = 1200 watts. 745. 5 watts = 1 BHP. Therefore, 1200 watts = 1. 61 BHP.



Now, if the engine-driven fan draws, say, 16 BHP, it's obviously 10 times more powerful. Let's say that the electric fan guys are really sharp, and their fan airfoil designs are twice as efficient as the stock mechanical fan (I doubt it). Even if this were the case, the engine-driven fan could move 5 times more air than a 100 amp electric fan setup.



Does the Cummins need this additional airflow? I guess it will depend how and where you're working it, but I can say based on personal experience that the largest Flex-a-Lite dual fan setup I could fit on my 1996 Ram V-10 in place of the engine-driven fan could NOT cool the engine when towing a heavy 5ver at slow speeds during Texas summers. Don't even ask what I paid to purchase this education.



Rusty

 

[Lsfarm]

Engine driven VS Electric fans

The deciding factor is what you use your truck for. I have a single Flex-A-Lite Fan, and it does just fine. I think it is the 5000 cfm model, I'm not sure since I bought it used at a swap meet.



However I don't tow very often, and if I do only in the Midwest where there are few serious grades.



If I were to take a trip to the Rockies with a trailer in tow, I would put the factory fan back on. This is about a 20 minute operation for my truck.



I did tow Steve StLaurent's mobile bunkhouse to Muncie last year in 95* heat, and had zero issues. This Trailer is a 35', 8500# TT.



So the electric works fine if you use it for the right applicaton.



Greg L The Noise Nazi

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Originally posted by Cooker

That fan draws a max of 100 AMPS That certainly would be a stress on the electrical system. Maybe you could make it a variable fan with a rheostat?

why not the grid heaters draw 110 amps!

 

[TxDieselKid]

Re: Engine driven VS Electric fans

Originally posted by Lsfarm

The deciding factor is what you use your truck for. I have a single Flex-A-Lite Fan, and it does just fine. I think it is the 5000 cfm model, I'm not sure since I bought it used at a swap meet.

I agree with you Greg, and since I am a racer, not a tower, that is why I am intrested. Not only this, but I hear it makes the engine a bit more quiet. Not to mention the point that Tim brought up a while ago.



So far I am seeing no reason NOT to go electric.



Thanks for all your commits so far.



Andrew

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by rweis

Could you just lockup the fan clutch so it runs all the time period? What would be the ramifications of that? If it only draws 4 hp

Bob it only draws 4hp when it's not locked up. Locked up is around 23hp

 

[rweis]

Bill, thanks, I thought it was two different numbers.



You run no fan in the winter right? What is the decision point you use to put the blades back on?



Bob Weis

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by ToolManTimTaylor

why not the grid heaters draw 110 amps!

I hate how hard the grids are on the system, particullary after the truck is already started. I wouldn't want to draw 100 AMPS for too long of a period of time, of course with 11. 5k of airflow I don't think it would have to run very long.



IMHO the only reason not to go electrics (depending on the trucks use) is failure. I had an electric fail on an S-10 I had some time ago. It happened while I left the truck idiling and when I came back the temp gauge was burried. I wouldn't want that to happen with my Cummins.



IMHO If going with electrics, dual fans on two separate circuits would be the way to go.