Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Electric Fuel Pressure Gauge Question

[randall53]

I've read a lot about FPG's on this and other forums. So much so that my head hurts.There are so many opinion, options and different ways of doing it. I just want something simple that will let me know my pressure. Has anyone hooked up an electric gauge to the outlet of the filter canister with one of the banjo bolts I've read so much about from Geno's? This seems to me to be the easiest for me as far as install and troubleshooting/repair later on if needed. Also are there any other devices needed for this type of hookup? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Killgore]

I put a T before the primary and a T after the GDP MK-2 thereby having the ability to monitor both the LP and the pressure drop across the filters. Granted it is a bit of over-kill, but it works for me. I am monitoring both points with a Hewitt dual pressure gauge.

- Ed

 

[GReed]

I had a Nordskog digital electric gauge with the sending unit on top of a billet aluminum filter lid that Genos used to sell. The only problem I had was sending units kept going out. I even had a snubber. I got tired of replacing sending units at $35 or so a pop and went with an Isspro mechanical.

 

[randall53]

I've looked at the mechanical gauges, but they seem to be a difficult installation. Did you use the anti-freeze method, or fuel to the gauge?

 

[GReed]

I used air brake hose, it is supposed to be very durable, and just ran fuel to the gauge. It seems like a lot of people have had problems with isolators. I put a needle valve in the line and with it barely opened I don't get any gauge buzzing or fluctuation. I did get a bit of buzzing and needle fluctuation once, valve must have opened up a bit, closed valve a little and buzzing quit.

 

[randall53]

I've looked at so many installations it get's confusing. Even the equipment needed. What's the simplest way to install a mechanical gauge? do you have to cut, as in shorten, the fuel line between the filter canister and the VP pump? I want to do it myself because I just don't trust most shops around where I live.

 

[GReed]

Get a tapped banjo bolt for the VP44. Put a needle valve on the banjo bolt. You can also put a gauge snubber on the needle valve. Run your fuel line into the cab to the gauge. WWW.dieselmanor.com has an upgraded line kit. Probably air brake hose. They also have Isspro gauges without the isolator. If you don't have any other gauges you will have to decide what type of mount to use. I have a three gauge pillar mount. FP, pyro, boost. If you have an automatic you would also want a trans temp gauge. There is also a single gauge steering column mount.

 

[Killgore]

Randall, you can also find a pretty good selection of miscellaneous fittings available from Glacier Diesel Products. I ran the lines into the cab using air line
and hooked everything up using Push-Loc connectors. Geno's quit handling the billet aluminum filter covers several years ago otherwise I would have done
what GReed did.

 

[randall53]

Thanks for the replies guys. The information helped a lot. I'll post results when I get it done.

 

[KATOOM]

It doesnt have to be confusing nor involved but yes you're right in that everyone has an opinion. Either way, there's things you need to do correctly otherwise you can affect the performance and reliability of the gauge.

It probably way more than you want to do but this is what I did..... I got a tapped 90* barb fitting for my new lines and ran it off the bottom outlet of the fuel filter housing. You want your gauge to be post the fuel filter. Then using all JIC fittings, I ran a -3 JIC fitting stainless steel braided line from that 90* up to a tee fitting on the firewall. About 5 feet. After the fitting I installed a dedicated snubber to another -3 JIC fitting stainless steel braided line which runs up to the gauge. About another 5 feet. I had ISSPRO install a snubber orifice in their mechanical FP gauge. Here's the important part most people forget or dont think about. In that tee fitting I used the 3rd port to re-install the schrader valve test fitting so I can confirm and compare my in-cab gauge with the test gauge for accuracy and diagnostics if needed. How does anyone know if the gauge they just installed is even accurate?

You sound like you still have the factory fuel lines so you shouldn't need to go through half of what I did. If you have no plans to upgrade the fuel lines then you still have the schrader test ports in place and all you should need is a tapped banjo or tapped banjo. You can use hardware store parts to fit a regular brass 1/8 NPT fitting into the banjo. If you're going to go with a mechanical gauge then the type of hose you choose to use will dictate the fitting type. From the tapped banjo you should install a dedicated snubber and run all lines from the snubber.

If you choose to go with an electric gauge (which is totally fine and the more common route) then you still need the tapped banjo and snubber but you can run the gauge sender off the snubber and then the wires up to the cab. Much less work.

Either way, the snubbers are necessary otherwise the hydrodynamic fluid pulses from the VP will eventually beat the electrical sender or the mechanical gauge to the point where they're no longer accurate or working. So do NOT mount it directly on the VP as thats way too close to the pulses, you can use a hardware store needle valve as a snubber but I dont care for the potential inaccuracy, and no hydraulic lines or grease gun lines will act as an insulating snubber for the pulses. Those lines are rated in the hundreds and even thousands of pounds whereas the pulses and fuel pressures are only between 10-20 psi. Not enough to even flex those high pressure lines.....

Now all you have to worry about is gauge brand. Just dont get Glowshift as they're prone to inaccuracy and reliability problems. Rather stay with quality like Autometer, ISSPRO, or many other name brands.

 

[randall53]

Thank you Katoom. That's a lot of great info! I've been looking at the Autometer brand the most. They seem to have more in the $50 to $70 price range I'm looking for.

 

[Freebore]

I installed an Isspro electric FP gauge and used a snubber as well as remote mounted the sensor on my 3rd gen. It's only been on the truck for 3 months, no problems so far.

 

[madmanmanick]

way back when i ordered the special chrome plated cap for the filter that has a fitting on the top in the center that I attached the fuel pressure sensor.

 

[Hitec.Redneck]

Do yourself a favor and skip the mechanical gauge. Eventually the noise generated by the VP pump and everything else under the hood will cause the mechanical gauge t rattle extremely bad when you accelerate or decelerate. It about drive nuts on long trips. I removed my mechanical gauge and installed an electric Ispro which solved all the problems.