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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) electric H20 pumps

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Should have 1st batch of bolt in electric water pumps tomorrow (10-18-07), will post pictures when they arrive.



scot
 
I have a few questions. Why run one of these? What sort of testing has been done to prove reliability? Is this a performance deal like running an electric fan is it supposed to increase flow and cooling? How much horse power does the factory water pump really use?



I just replaced my stock water pump at 245k miles. There was nothing wrong with it but I had it out anyway so figure I may as well replace it.



Not trying to shoot holes in your pump, just trying to learn a little.



Thanks,

Mike
 
main reason is for trucks running over 3000 rpm, so you don't have to worry about freeze plug issues. hoping to get to the dyno soon. have some pumps with the same motor & seal in them that have over 10,000 hours on them.



scot
 
Not to hi-jack the thread, but i've got a question... At what point do the freeze plugs blow out? does it have to do with boost/horsepower, or just engine RPM? I was thinking of going to a 4k gsk, but not if its gonna cause me to blow the plugs out. What are your thoughts?
 
Yeah, what is the cost? I want one..... very nice piece and just what I am looking for for my 3K+ RPM sled puller. Please post info... ... :)



Joe
 
these might be nice to have for guys that live in real cold weather, you could have it switched off in the winter totally, or setup to turn on at a certain temp. maybe even wire up a 120-12 volt supply that would run the pump while the truck is plugged in, hell even hook that up to your cab blower motor and have the heater running too.
 
yeah, price? if they are priced decently, I will take 2. I keep an extra water pump in my truck for just incase.



whats the belt you need after installing this?
 
I don't understand the freeze plug issue, how does that happen? Seems to me the system is pressurized to the cap pressure whether the pump turns a kajillion rpm or not. If it exceeds the pressure the cap vents so what causes the plugs to blow?
 
With the pump running at higher RPM the volume and pressure increase the thermostat is only capable of flowing so much volume which is less then what the water pump puts out at higher RPM. Once it gets through the thermosstat it gets to the radiator and then the cap and that 5/16 nipple cant even begin to relieve the excess.
 
You guys are all asking Scot to do something the TDR does not allow,posting of prices in a thread due to solicitation. Instead of putting him on the spot here why not PM him and ask him so you do not have him tossed for doing something wrong.



I have seen the pump personally and for those who desire the benefits for the outer space orbit type of rpm load it is a great fit for you. Would I use it on the street as a daily driver,probably not,but then again,one never knows.



Thank You Scot for a great product... ... ... . Andy
 
Has the freeze plug issue ever really occured? I guess I'm having trouble getting over the idea it can, as that means the cooling system was designed with very marginal tolerances. What kind of rpm does it take to force the plugs out? It seems a high revving gas engine would have the same issues? :confused:
 
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Has the freeze plug issue ever really occured? I guess I'm having trouble getting over the idea it can, as that means the cooling system was designed with very marginal tolerances. What kind of rpm does it take to force the plugs out? It seems a high revving gas engine would have the same issues? :confused:



I've never seen a frost plug blow out but you've got to remember that in most of the applications these engines were designed for they were running well below 2,500 rpm. Some of the pullers and drag racer's are running around twice that fast. Also after a certain point increasing the coolant flow actually decreases the cooling capacity because the coolant circulates too fast to transfer heat like it should.
 
Has the freeze plug issue ever really occured? I guess I'm having trouble getting over the idea it can, as that means the cooling system was designed with very marginal tolerances. What kind of rpm does it take to force the plugs out? It seems a high revving gas engine would have the same issues? :confused:



yes it happens quite often on high RPM trucks, even those who have clipped the fins on the stock pump. Some can be covered (like the one on the back of the block) while others just rely on locktite to hold them. If that is the same pump (which is looks like it is) that Enterprise Engine sells it is very nice.



I'm sure gas engines could have the same problems if they were reving twice the designed RPM using a pump not designed for that. Keep in mind that a gas engine that usually redlines at 6k doing 8 or 9k isn't the same as an engine that from the factory only did something like 2700 being asked to do 6500.
 
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