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Electric horn install on 2006

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I finally got around to installing my Stebel Nautilus horns. Got them installed & went to wire them up, but I'm afraid to disconnect or tap into the factory wiring. The wiring diagram from the Factory Service manual show the horns are fed from the infamous T. I. P. M. After hearing the trouble the trailer tow package causes & $5-600 to replace the module, I afraid to hook anything up!!



Anyone got any ideas? I don't care if the oem horns work or not. The F. S. M. says to check the horns with a scan tool, so I afraid if I disconnect the factory horn or tie a relay into the horn trigger wire it will let out the smoke from the TIPM!! Or throw a code or something.



Thanks :confused:
 
Check with a multimeter how many amps the OEM horn draws. You new horn is probably in the same range... If so, just switch to the new one. If not, you might consider using a relay with both horns sounding at the same time.



You can put a fuse in your circuit too, for increased safety. Say the horn draws 9 amps, then put a 10 amps fuse.



Hth!



Dan
 
Where can you get info on Stebel Nautilus horns? You said yours are electric, but all I see, using a Google search, are 139db air horns. Also, I can't what different models are available. Who makes them? Is there a manufacturer's website? Thx.
 
ddutil



The horn did come with a relay, the problem is with ALL the ELECTRONICS on the 2006, I'm afraid to tie into a circuit that an electronic module monitors resistance, current draw, ect.
 
Just read the specs - looks like the factory horns draw approx 5. 5 amps @ 12v each - 11 amps per pair. . (using their tm/80 series as a guide)



The Nautilus uses - 18 amps each - approx 36-40 amps per pair (using their specs as a guide)



Suggestion - use a relay - as to not draw this much load on the factory wiring etc. . and fuse it accordingly - 20amp each or 40amp for a pair - and be sure to use a relay rated for this load, wiring rated for this load and you might want to wire your own momentary switch to trigger the new horn(s) relay as to avoid all factory wiring all together...
 
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When I had Grover air horns, with pump and air storage tank, in my 81 Chev crewcab, I wired them completely separately from everything else. Ran a fused wire direct from the battery to a solenoid, which also came directly from the battery and also had its own fuse. I used a non-grounded solenoid, so it was bolting it to the fender well didn't ground it. Wired it all to a foot-switch, high on the left-foot side of the firewall. Than I had "town" and "country" horns, and could sound both at once if I was REALLY p. o'd.
 
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