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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Electric or Mechanical Fuel pressure gauge

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Both mech and electrical gauges can work fine. One of the keys for accuracy is finding a gauge that reads the proper range.



Gauges either mech or electrical are designed to read the most accurate in the midle of thier meter movement, (mid range). Most of the gauges on the market are designed for carburated gas engines that operate at 7-9 psi. They max at 15 psi but are not as accurate at that pressure. They also will not last as long being at the extreem most of the time.



I know some people will disagree with me but if you talk to the people who desugn gauges they will support this. Or you can look at the gauges in any car or truck. The oil pressure, volt, and water temp gauges all max out much higher than the normal operating range.



I have had no luck finding analog fuel gauges that read 0-30 psi. So I went with digital.



Good luck with what ever you end up with.
 
I use an Autometer 15psi mechanical in the top hole of my pillar mount with braided line to the fuel filter. 20k with zero problems and I check it often for leaks. I would have ordered the isolator if they were in stock when I bought mine.

Eric
 
My mechanical gauge is about 21" higher than the point at which I want to measure the pressure, that being the inlet to the VP44.



I have an isolator mounted at approximately the same elevation as the inlet to the VP44, so I'm okay there. However, that leaves 21" of an anti-freeze/water mix for which I need to compensate.



The weight of the fill fluid in the line going to the gauge mounted on my a-pillar actually subtracts from the true reading. So 21" times 1. 03 (specific gravity of the anti-freeze mix) times 0. 03612 (conversion of inches of water to PSI) yields about 0. 8 PSI.



In order for the gauge to more accurately reflect the fuel pressure reading, this has to be compenated for. It's called "elevating" the zero.



In my case, I applied 7. 2 PSI to the gauge on the bench, and set the pointer at 8.



If you set a transitter at the same elevation as the point you wish to measure, you don't have this problem.



Ethdee
 
isolator

just sitting here with the summit catalog by my side... . looked u[ the isolator. part # ATM-5282. $91. 69. WOW!!! i think i'll keep my hydraulic hose!!:--)
 
OK here is my setup:



Autometer mechanical 0-15psi, with standard nylon hose (like what is used on boost and oil pressure gauges). This gauge came with the -4AN fitting on the back, which all fuel pressure gauges do. All I did was get out the ol' Tap and Die set and went after it with the 1/8" NPT die and wallah. . . I can use the small easy-to-route tube and easily install the gauge in my dash pod. I used liquid thread sealant and have no leaks. Works great and there are no pulsations like I had with this same gauge using the expensive PITA SS braided hose I originally got.



I used one of Ray T's banjo bolts mounted in the outlet of the filter canister.



Vaughn
 
Redneckdr,



Did the same thing but on their website,:--) ,I to also decided not to use it,so I think I'll have stainless braided hoses made up. :D
 
Why can't this be easy? You know, go to one supplier and order a dependable easy to install (all parts included) FP gauge, with directions that will work with my 2000 CTD. I know I need a gauge but I am not a tech type. I have found a guy that is a diesel mechanic and does work out of his house (he is a Cummins guy that owns 2 ( 89 and 91), so he does not have these FP problems. But I want to make this easy for him and not cost me a fortune. Is there such a thing as a one stop shopping vendor that understands what the owner of a 2000 CTD needs? I would think with all of the lift pump problems there would be a vendor that would have a turnkey package with detailed instruction for my application. I appreciate your help but some of these responses make me feel like I am in way over my head. Dodge should of included a FP gauge with this crappy lift pump they put in our trucks :(

Thanks, I'm just frustrated :(
 
gauge package

pit bull, call doug or andy at Advanced Diesel Technology. www.smokindiesel.com. they will listen to you and get you everything you need for the install. good service and good prices.

... ... ... ..... usual disclaimer. (i don't know nuthin. i don't sell nuthin. i don't get nuthin from them if you buy from 'em. i'm just a satisfied customer!!)
 
Call Patrick at Nordskog. Then call Briar Hopper for the plumbing. You can put it in yourself. He sells a kit to hook up to the test ports.
 
Geno's has almost everything you need, but it is not all in one kit, they have gauges, banjo bolts, banjo gaskets.

I bought a 18" grease gun hose at auto parts store, to go between fuel canister tapped banjo bolt and sending unit for FP gauge. Works good and no pulsations.
 
full mail box

pit bull just sent you a PM. says your mailbox is full. go to "user cp", and empty your mailbox. be sure to check inbox, sent messages, and message tracking--delete some to get some space.
 
Re: full mail box

Originally posted by redneckdr

pit bull just sent you a PM. says your mailbox is full. go to "user cp", and empty your mailbox. be sure to check inbox, sent messages, and message tracking--delete some to get some space.



Sorry, It's cleaned out now.

Thanks
 
Opinions welcome,,,,,,,,,

I just got through installing my Westach FP gauge, using a grease gun hose extension (1/8 npt) screwed into the post-filter port (the one closest to the center according to Geno's directions) with the sender mounted on the brake booster bracket (This cuts down on vibration damaging the electric sending unit). I've also mounted a small mechanical gauge under the hood on the pre-filter port, which allows me to compare idle psi across the filter @ idle. I will eventually replace that with another electric sender to hook via a toggle switch to the inside gauge.

I'm not real overjoyed with my readings so far, so tell me what you guys think.

mech = 12-13 psi pre-filter @ idle (kinda jitters)

elect = 10 psi post-filter @ idle (Filter is due change which I knew)

mech = ????... ... ... . I ain't riding under the hood @ WOT :rolleyes:

elect = 5-6 psi @ WOT


I left the old filter in so I could compare readings with a new one, which I'll change this weekend.
 
I'm running the Nordskog Dig. gauge too, very good gauge for the price. From Summit Racing, gauge p# nrd m 8024 $39. 95 sender p# nrd s 8424 $39. 95. :)
 
FP's

rattlin ram, those are almost identical to mine with a mechanical Isspro. post filter i show 13 at idle, 11 at cruise, and 5 at WFO. for now i'm just watching.

FWIW, i found another pump doing a search, that i haven't seen mentioned. this one would be to replace the OEM, but mount back by the tank. Russell Ultra Flow II. 160 GPH, pressure adjustable from 15 to 20 PSI. i may do it one day. cost from a local supplier was $220. prefilter to that pump, to the oem filter, and adjust post filter pressure to 15PSI????

also found sketchy info on Borg-Warner electric fuel pumps. "Guaranteed for llife" (whose life??) ordered the catalog.
 
FP's

RAMTHIS1,

I hate to go the pusher pump route, especially since I'm bone stock, but I would like to go to a mild fueling box in the future for towing purposes. It's just a shame we have to do stuff like this!



redneckdr,

I had posted on the other "lift pump poll" thread today and see that I'm still covered under warranty and that there is a low spec. for WOT, which I was told at the dealer by the mechanic, "DC doesn't have a spec for WOT, just idle psi" :confused:

Steve St. L. said it was just released and all the dealers may not know about it yet.

If I get the same readings after I have double-checked my gauges,,,,,,,,

I know they will know about it! #@$%!

Please keep us posted on anything else you find out on those other pumps.
 
i have the isspro mechanical (evm series )with their tubing and so far been working very good had to install a snubber but it works so fine i am not concerned about diesel leaking in cab which it has not but any way i like the smell of diesel and you cant diesel get ignited even if you want to but only in engine cylinders :) total cost was about 40 some dollars

bob
 
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