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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Electric window switch

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The electric window switch on the drivers side will let the passenger side window go down but not up. The Passenger side window switch works great and the window go's up and down. The drivers side works great for the drivers side but not for the passenger. I think the problem is the drivers side electric window switch. I have never changed the switches and I was wondering if it was a difficult job? I was going to get the part from the steeler and attempt to do the job myself. How does the switch get removed from the door and I would imagine it would just be plug in wiring. Any info would be greatly appreciated, I bought the 12 Valve new in 98 and LOVE the truck. I really appreciate the TDR, it has saved my butt many times
Thanks,
 
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Test before buying , after many yrs of being in the repair bis , more often than not its a ground problem , the switch reverses the polarity [ 12 volt DC ] to get the motor to go both ways , so when you test , you have to expect the power to switch to ground & ground to power .
For the 1st time you may end up breaking some plastic , I haven't done your yr & model , but most all trucks , car about the same , do not force , but they either just pry out , sometimes with a push forward or back , then unplug , get a 12 volt test light & before unplugging , check by probing from the back side of the connector to see if you get power , if so then work the switch , look for power on either end , depending on which way it pressed .
 
Thanks JFaughn (John), I really appreciate the info and will attempt to pull the switch and check the ground this weekend. Again thanks for the info.
 
When I tried to get a switch from rockauto, it ended up being backordered for a while, so I just got one from the *******. Price wasn't too bad if I remember correctly. Like said before, changing the switch is a snap. As far as testing it goes, I tried testing mine according to the service manual, and it checked out okay. I checked out the wiring, and that checked out okay. So, went to the *******, talked to the guy behind the counter. He said that if it wasn't the switch, as long as I didn't beat it up, I could bring it back. Put it in, that was it. Mine was doing exactly what yours is doing right now.
 
Hey! Thanks Guys, I really appreciate the feedback, these crappy little electrical problems can drive me nuts, and thats not a long trip sometimes. I bought the truck in 98' brand new and have done all the work myself and flat love the truck, not too many problems other then the ones inherit with the truck (Starter contacts, seal on vacuum pump, KDP, added Pac Brake and injectors, ect. ) again, thanks a lot.
 
The switch is not hard to replace. You have 2 screws that hold the door in and about 8 "push pins" , just unscrew the screws and then start at a corner and pull the door off. As far as the switch, if you can get the door off, you can probably figure out the 2 screws and 1 plug in the switch. The thing I would check first, though, is the window regulator/motor. Back when i worked as a mechanic for a local Dodge dealer, the motor to switch "falure rate" is like 9 to 1. SIMPLE DIAGNOSIS: If you notice a power draw (door open--watch the interior lights on) while using the window switch, my money would be put on the window motor.
 
The swith is a fairly common problem with these when the Cummins is installed - the rest of the truck has to last as long as the motor. To remove the switch (if you '98 is like my '94) remove the "pull cup" in the door panel, it's held in with 2 screws. Then reach into the hole and push the tab on the back of the switch plate forward and up at the back. It should pivot up at the back then you can slide it toward the rear to free the front.
 
I had issues with my windows while we were touring last fall. It got to the point where the drivers side switch could put the passenger window up but only the passenger switch could power the pass. window down.



Last weekend, I pulled the switch out of the pass. door to inspect. Turns out you can also pull the switch itself apart with a small screwdriver. What I found was some build-up and pitting on the contacts kind of like ignition points. After taking a little sandpaper to all the contacts, everything works good as new. I did the driver's side switch while I was at it.



- Dave
 
That's good to know, as posted above, I had a problem with my driver's side switch. And now, am starting to have problems with the passenger's switch. I'll have to check that out before I fork over some more money. Thanks
 
Last weekend, I pulled the switch out of the pass. door to inspect. Turns out you can also pull the switch itself apart with a small screwdriver. What I found was some build-up and pitting on the contacts kind of like ignition points. After taking a little sandpaper to all the contacts, everything works good as new. I did the driver's side switch while I was at it.



- Dave



I did that a few times but it only lasted a few months. I even put silicone dielectric grease on the contacts to keep them from corroding but still no luck. Post how long this lasts for you.
 
You don't have to remove the inner door panel to remove those switches.



Unscrew the screws that hold the "grab pocket" to the door. This will give you a hole through which you can reach one of the spring clips that hold the switch unit to the door panel. Push (compress) the spring clip while pushing up on the switch unit. The whole thing should pop up out of the door panel.



Once it's out, disconnect wires and/or switches as desired.



Loren
 
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