Electrical Fuel Pressure gauge

[Dr.Kayak]

Any recomendations on a Electrical fule pressure gauge? I was looking at the Autometer 2661 but it is $170. The Westach fuel pressure gauge is only $65. Why the big difference? Would like to match my other Autometer gauges but not for an extra $100.



Thanks, Chuck

 

[dresslered]

I opted for the Autometer ATM-4361. Though it is quite expensive, I think that it is a top quality gauge. I've enclosed a picture so that you can see that it is more than just a simple gauge. It contains a separate module that appears to contain circuitry for additional signal conditioning, filtering, etc. (I had to peak inside). I have been very happy with the results achieved with the remotely mounted sensor.

 

[Big White Beast]

Went with Stewart Warner......

Picked up the fuel pressure gauge, two senders and shipping for $113. Not as nice a looking gauge as my autometers. Can only get it in silver bezel also. I am mounting it under the dash so it's not as important.



I'm also waiting on some snubbers and banjo bolts. Decided to change all the banjo bolts as I'm upgrading injectors soon. The snubbers are to keep the shock pulses from the VP44 away from the senders. I have a mechanical gauge in it now and you can hear it right into the cab.



Just my 2¢



Garrett

 

[Dr.Kayak]

Garrett, Where do you get the snubbers? Do I need them if I mount my sensor off the banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter? I know I don't want the sensor mounted directily to the VP44.



Thanks,

Chuck

 

[dresslered]

Chuck-

I would always mount the sensors remotely. Even if the "water hammer" from the injection pump doesn't get you, the vibrations of the engine probably will. This is especially noticed with the SW senders. I came off of the bottom of the fuel filter using one of Ray's modified banjos and used a 12" rubber grease hose extension (1/8" NPT fittings on both ends) to mount off of the master cylinder bracket. The rubber tubing acts as a snubber to take out any injection pump pulses. Good luck,



David

 

[RustyJC]

Been there - done that (see signature). I would definitely remote-mount the senders, and I would invest in the gauge snubber from http://www.grainger.com for the post filter sender. Once there, do a search for "+gauge +snubber".



I remote mounted both of my senders using Ray's banjo bolts and braided stainless steel tubing. The post-filter sender is plumbed to the banjo fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter. The first Westach post-filter sending unit lasted about 500 miles. The second lasted about 150 miles. I put the snubber on this week, but the damage to the second sender is already done - I'm waiting for Westach to return the first one I sent in under warranty.



Apparently there are some severe pressure spikes feeding back from the VP44 that have enough energy to take out post-filter mechanical gauges or senders. Based on my experience, the gauge snubber is cheap insurance. By the way, the pre-filter sending unit has never missed a beat - 16 PSI at idle; never lower than 12 PSI even at WOT towing our 5ver.



Rusty

 

[Big White Beast]

Got my snubbers from Versa Gauge....

Do an internet search and they will pop up. My current mechanical gauge is mounted pre filter on the schroeder valve. And it still makes all that noise in the cab. So post filter can only be worse.



The snubbers I ordered are $8. 95 ea. plus shipping. A lot cheaper than the ones I found at Grainger. I am going to remote mount the sensors and go with the braided hoses for looks.



Garrett

 

[Devildog]

I have a westach electric fuel gauge and I mounted the sender right to the filter inlet bango bolt, Have there been issues with direct mounting of the sender?

 

[Big White Beast]

Many have had problems.....

The vibration of the engine seems to take its toll on senders. On top of that I am hooked up to the inlet schroeder valve with a mechanical gauge and can here the hammer from the VP44 loud and clear in the cab. Gauge pulses pretty well too. Thats with a 4' hose, so I'm not too sure the rubber hose alone will help alleviate the shock enough



At first I thought the people recommending snubbers were just being anal retentive as usual around here. Now I know better. Spent some good money on these gauges might as well give em the best chance to stay healthy for as long as possible.



The TDR is like a huge testing ground. DC should send us all commision checks for fixing all their bugs for em!!



Garrett

 

[CumminsAholic]

FYI, I have a mechanical gauge, no snubbers and I don't have any noise. I'm also post filter. No hammering whatsoever. At least not that I can hear. Everything sounds that same as it did before the install. I would recommend that anyone getting an electric gauge should get snubbers. I haven't heard much good about anyone's senders. Too much vibration and pulsations from the cummins. But, what do you expect from a powerhouse, something quiet and smooth?

Corey

 

[illflem]

When a 24 valve's fuel pump is working correctly many times a snubber isn't necessary, but it's cheap insurance for your gauge or sender. On a 12 valve a snubber is a necessity, without one you can't even read the gauge and the pulsations will shake your entire dash. The adaptor that TST sells to convert your 12 valve fuel filter bleed screw to 1/8" pipe thread will also double as a snubber

 

[RJOL]

DevilDog

Installed my Westach fuel pressure gauge a few weeks back. I initially installed directly to the VP44 using one of Geno's tapped banjo bolts.



Gauge worked fine for about 200 miles, then the pointer started to bounce all over the place. Got some fuel grade hose and had fittings put on the ends and then remotely located the sender away from the injector pump.



Can't tell you for sure if that was the problem, but I've put almost 2000 miles on the truck since then and haven't had any more bouncing gauge pointers... .