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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Electrical gremlins

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 NO POWER at all????

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) '02 fuel line

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The latest in a series of problems is electrical. I noticed just tonight that my dash illumination is out along with my tail lights (not brake & turn) also the parking lights. I found the 15 amp fuse in the PDC was blown & the replacement blew immediately on turning the headlight switch to "parking". I'd appreciate any ideas on where to start looking. Thanks.
 
Is this the same truck you had the body off of? Either way, I'd start looking for pinched/cut wires.



Dan



Yes it is Dan. I've put over 800 miles on it since the body swap. I'm wondering if it has something to do with it being towed the night of Jan one when the VP44 crapped out. Hopefully I'll be able to see something in the daylight today.
 
Unplug the entire rear lights. Disconnect it at rear bumper.



Dark horse are you efficient with an ohm meter?



Sounds like your grounds are good. lol
 
Unplug the entire rear lights. Disconnect it at rear bumper.



Dark horse are you efficient with an ohm meter?



Sounds like your grounds are good. lol



Thanks Skydiver. I've been studying the wiring diagrams in the SM :eek: My hunch is something got pinched in the back when it was towed. I wouldn't say I'm efficient with an ohm meter but I do have a good one.
 
Another thing to check... under the dash you will find an electrical plug (has about 15 wires to it) that may or may not be plugged into anything. It tends to hang loose, and sometime they get "hung" on a screw in the dash, which causes a direct short in the wiring.

The plug is located right along the bottom edge of the dash, behind the knee bolster.

Worth a check... it caused issues in my dad's truck.

steved
 
I couldn't find any problem in wiring but I replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 20 (hardware store didn't have 15) & that got my tail & dash lights up. :) Still no parking lights. :confused:
 
Sounds like a direct short on two wires under the bed, probably pinched.



Look for any other blown fuses, especially the 40 AMP Trailer fuse (if it has one), under the hood. If you have the factory trailer package, the brake and parking lights, trailer brakes, and 12v for the trailer are on the 40 AMP trailer fuse. If you have aftermarket trailer wiring, then they are probably tied into your tail light fuse. Check any aftermarket wiring closely. Most of my blown fuses come from a short around the trailer plug. An Ohm meter will measure the resistance through your wires and can check continuity to ground (with the power off to that circuit), which is a short. You can also check the voltage at the tail lights, for your bake lights and parking lights. You should read slightly less than battery voltage, about 0. 1 volts less. If you read a lot less than battery voltage on any single wire, you have a short or bad connection on that wire. If you read a lot less on all the wires, then look for pinched or corroded wires. Remember, a corroded or loose connection will cause increased resistance and can blow a fuse. But it sounds like your main problem is a direct short. I wouldn't go larger than a 20 AMP fuse. Depending on the type of problem or problems you have, a larger fuse could melt some stuff. Good luck!
 
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Thanks Chris. That's good information. I've been running on the 20 amp fuse for a day & over 100 miles now. No further problems have surfaced. I did get some 15 amp fuses yesterday so I'll put one in & see if it blows. I didn't find any pinched wires at the read but I didn't check forward from the spare tire. The truck does have the factory towing package.

Richard
 
Hey,

Just a quick note on fuses and breakers... . i've seen numerous reports of ultra-cheap (quality) fuses and breakers coming in from china. They don't blow at rated spec. Good opportunity for a fire.

MTBF now = mean time between fires. :(

Bottom line: Buy quality from a reseller you trust.

Hvy
 
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