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Electrical Schematics

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Does anyone know where I can get electrical schematics for a 91. 5 Dodge/Cummins? I vaguely remember seeing them in the Dodge supplement service manual. I have misplaced this book somewhere in my last move. Any Ideas? Input is appreciated. GregH
 
Question?

Is 12. 5 Volts enough to open the fuel shutoff solenoid? I thought a 12V automotive battery was actually 13+ volts. Thanks in advance for your input. GregH
 
I've got a short!

Talked with a friend and he recommended that I remove the + terminal from the battery and place a continuity tester between said terminal and cable end. I do not have a light so I used the voltage mode on a cheap automotive tester. When contacted, the tester showed a spike to 6V and settling down to a draw of 4V. I pulled a few fuses and rechecked,trying to isolate the circut but so far no hit. Will have to systematically remove each fuse instead of randomly guessing. We have alot of dirt road driving where the County uses Magnesium Chloride to reduce dust and to keep the road surface from eroding. I know that I have alot of corrosion in places that you wouldn't expect for such a dry climate. The bouncing and hammering on the washboards doesnt do the wireing harness any good either.

Further issues are the battery longevity and an original alternator. GregH
 
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Greg, start unhooking wires from the alternator. It has a good chance of being the problem. If not, you're on the right track, pulling fuses 1 at a time. ;)
 
Alternator?

Thanks Pete, I'll definitely check the alternator. I would think that 16+ years of service should put it on the top of the suspicious component list. If it is bad, where can I get one just like it, of similar quality? GregH
 
Similar quality? :rolleyes: D-C? $$$$ #@$%!

I can't help you on that, mine has the original on it! ;)



Thanks Pete, I got one today. A rebuild from NAPA W/3 year warranty as well as a new voltage regulator. I will tear into it on Friday ifn it dont snow. Had the NAPA store check out the new Alternator before I brought it home. Has a $60 core charge, but I want to make sure the pully has the same geometry as well as the hookups before I give them old faithful for a refund.

I priced one at Autozone for $125 with a "lifetime warranty". Had a double V-pully. Didn't feel it was worth the time to do the swap. GregH
 
Todays effort

Removed the wireing harness and connections from the Alternator. No change in the voltage readings across the battery + terminal and the disconnected battery cable. I pulled all the fuses one at a time and checked the voltage also. Same readings. Disconnected the voltage regulator and found the same readings. I did not replace the alternator. Will do that another day. Needed a dead blow hammer to break loose the mounting bolts. I found one that was corroded? White powdery stuff like on a battery terminal? Something has been going on. Not sure what. Weather turned nasty so I quit for the day. Will revisit this on Monday.

Did find some sloppy workmanship from the pro's that worked on my truck couple of weeks ago. One of the intercooler hoses was plum loose and the innercooler clamps at the outlet of the innercooler are inaccessable with anything but a combo wrench with one directly pointed at the radiator and the other at the battery? Minor stuff but not If I would have blown the boost hose. GregH
 
Greg, next step, unplug the PCM, (do you have one?) then starter, relays on the fender, etc. Do you have an aftermarket radio with memory? If so, do that next.

Unusual that pulling fuses didn't affect it!
 
Greg, next step, unplug the PCM, (do you have one?) then starter, relays on the fender, etc. Do you have an aftermarket radio with memory? If so, do that next.

Unusual that pulling fuses didn't affect it!



Yes I do have a PCM. That would be a RARE DUCK to find if it was dead! The aftermarket radio is dead. Wouldnt that show up when the fuse for the radio circut was pulled? Lots to consider and a Winter Storm is coming this week! Not in the shop now. Dead in the driveway at the house, 15 miles away! Thanks for the tips, Pete. I will do what I can until its fixed or have exhausted all options. Then It will have to go to a "professional".
 
Greg, if it's aftermarket, it should have another wire for memory. This may not be in the fuse block, just guessin' here! ;)



What was the original problem?
 
On aftermarket radios it will have a yellow wire that is connected to 12v constant to maintain the memory functions of the radio i. e. clock, preset stations, bass, treble, last volume etc.
 
Pete, Constant voltage drain, suspected short:-laf. Tim, I can remove the radio ( a jackhammer and a judicious application of High Explosives:-laf). Another interesting developement is the water in fuel light came on and stayed on! when I changed the fuel filter. It may be the PCM. I will try that next. Then the radio. Thanks for helping me think this through. GregH
 
Thank You, Lord

I pulled the harness from the PCM and measured the voltage drop across the disconnected + battery terminal and the cable and NO VOLTAGE DETECTED Oo. . I think the culprit is the PCM!! What do you think? Going to call on prices for PCM's. GregH
 
parts?

NAPA- no longer available.

Dodge Dealer- no longer serviced!

Carquest- None available, no part listed!

AutoZone- Not available in any form!

FOUND a used one at a junk yard!Oo. GregH
 
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Attention Computer Gurus!

Anyone out there that could provide insite into the feasability of refurbishing my PCM? I'd tackle it if I had some guidance!! Dont know what to look for other than the obvious! GregH
 
Greg, sounds like you got it! I don't have a clue on trying to fix it. I know Daledozer bought a new one for his. He said he pulled the cover, and it was filled with a jelly substance.

You can make do with out, if you have to. You already have the voltage regulator, shut off is not controlled by PCM. A/C, cruise, tach, (if equipped :D ) grid heaters, (can be on a switch).

Send Dale a PM, he can tell where and how much for his.

pete
 
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