Eliminate Muffler

[cerberusiam]

The WG off option will be in the same menus where you select the timing, speed limit, tire size, etc.



Yes, the lack of boost will effect the EGT's.

 

[Jim Ross]

I'm going to have to get the Smarty Jr out and plug it into the truck to see, but I only remember seeing the options of changing the SW settings, the timing, the torque, and the Power on Demand.
I don't recall seeing any options for tire size, speed, WG on/off, or anything like those things. Are you sure those options are in the Smarty Jr. ? They are not mentioned in my instructions. Maybe they are only available with the other Smarty programmer(s)?

 

[cerberusiam]

AH64ID would be the man to walk you thru that. I have the Sr so its a bit different. If you have no option to turn of the WG you will need a boost fooler.

 

[MChrist]

Off the top of my head, when I had one turbo and Smarty Jr, I would hit 38 psi on level 3.

 

[AH64ID]

All Smarty JR's turn the WG off (something I disagree with, but neither here nor there).



It's only an option in the Sr.



If it just spikes to 32 and then drops back down it sounds like your WG has not been disabled but the Jr, and is acting as it would on stock software.

 

[Jim Ross]

Now you guys have me going! I drove the truck a hundred miles today (Reno-Truckee-Graeagle-Reno), most at highway speeds and after a half tank of double dose Power Service injector cleaner, it seemed to run smooth and seemed like it was "OK". At 68 mph on level road, it ran at 750 EGT and 10+ psi boost. This was empty, not towing, just the truck running down the road. All settings are stock and when I put my foot in it (1 time), the boost topped out at 32 psi.
Now I will have to get the Smarty Jr out of the closet and try it again to see if the boost goes past 32. If the Smarty Jr works as it is supposed to work, what psi should I see? Will it be around 35 or will it be even greater?

 

[cerberusiam]

If the WG is disable and 60 HP you should be able to hit 40 psi if you run it to the redline on a grade.



If the WG is not disable 32 and hold around 30 psi.

 

[AH64ID]

The most I ever saw on my stock turbo/cam was 37, once when the reference line was in the OEM intake horn (where boost was higher in the horn than in the deference line). Normally I would see about 33-35 if I was in it all the way to redline. Towing it was rare to get above 33, but I lived on SW1. The few times I ran SW2 or SW2 I still topped out at about 35, but for me that took 2500+ rpms and at about 2800 rpms the WG would blow open from ~60 psi of drive pressure. Then at 2900 rpms the defuel begins.

It's very obvious that the WG isn't working, even if the peak is only 32-33, the boost is much more stable WOT.

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

If you're running a stock Turbo then you probably won't see more boost thanthat. I'm running tnt software with a stock Turbo and I have to stand on it to see more than 35 psi of boost.

 

[Jim Ross]

I need to run it stock for a few more days before I try the Smarty again, just to get a few more miles and to see if the mileage has improved after running the injector cleaner.
My experience, so far, has been that if I pull a grade and put my foot in it, my EGT's go up to 1200-1300 fast and I back off of it..... and it doesn't take many seconds of 30 psi to get me to those temps. Redlines and high temps scare me, so I rarely go over 1200 or 1250 temp and I stay below the redline at all times.
It will be educational to see if the injector cleaner makes any difference in economy, but it may take more than 1 tankful to get a fair number on that. Stay tuned as I drive it and get some numbers.

 

[cerberusiam]

Push it an see what it will hit for EGT's. That engine on stock power is supposedly good for whatever EGT's run. I could just about get to 1500 with stock fueling and boost if I stayed in the throttle on a good grade.



You have to remember that with the massively retarded timimg stock you will see a lot more EGT's that are not effecting the cylinder. There is less than normal dwell time in-cylinder and the late firing event pushes the observed temps higher for emmissions.

 

[Jim Ross]

1500 scares the daylights out of me!

 

[AH64ID]

1500 scares the daylights out of me!

If it's on a stock tune 1450° isn't anything to be scared of, in fact its the design operating EGT's to meet emissions.



With stock tuning and 1450° cylinder temps/pressures are actually lower than 1300° on a Smarty Jr on TM4.



But many people don't like the stock EGT's and it's why I tell people if you put gauges on a stock truck you will be surprised and probably spend more money to lower them, even thou they are fine.

 

[Jim Ross]

Well, like I said above, I keep learning.
On my '01, I tried never to go past 1300, same thing on the 7. 3 Ford that we used to own. I stuck with that plan on our current truck, especially after hearing about the potential for dropping a valve seat on the late model 5. 9's.

 

[AH64ID]

The 04. 5+ trucks have different valve seats than 03-04 and are designed for the heat. Think of all the guys towing 100% of the time with no gauges and a heavy right foot. It's PSD's and DMAX's we see broken down not CTDs.

 

[cerberusiam]

The late 06's and 07's have the best of the valves and valve seat combos. Anything is possible but dropping valves and seats on the last of the 5. 9's is not really a problem. The previous years taught Cummins what needed to be done and they updated them accordingly.

 

[Jim Ross]

and I keep on learning. Thanks, Guys!
Re the DMax..... I could tell a couple of horror stories that friends of mine have experienced with those. And, in looking at the F brand, it appeared to me that much of the under hood work would have to be done by braille. On the 7. 3 that we used to own, its economy was about the same as what I am experiencing with our '07 5. 9, except the CTD has more power.

 

[RDeFayette]

and I keep on learning. Thanks, Guys!

Re the DMax..... I could tell a couple of horror stories that friends of mine have experienced with those. And, in looking at the F brand, it appeared to me that much of the under hood work would have to be done by braille. On the 7. 3 that we used to own, its economy was about the same as what I am experiencing with our '07 5. 9, except the CTD has more power.

No you didn't have to do the work by Braille ... ... . just lift the cab off no problem!!!!!#@$%!:--)

 

[Jim Ross]

Yes... that is right, I saw one with the cab off not too long ago!