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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission eliminating CAD-need 4WD shift switch

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission TDR Calender Truck

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) front driveshaft seal

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My 96 has undergone several drivetrain changes over the last year. My transfer case is an NV271. I installed my vacuum switch to engage my CAD. I built a Dana 60 and 80 axles and swapped them in over the weekend. My Dana 60 has the Ford outers, which allowed me to install Warn locking hubs. I removed the vacuum switch and hoses today and now looking for a switch to install in the transfer case to turn my dash light on, when I am in 4WD. I thought I read where some 01 and all 02 trucks do not have a vacuum switch on the transfer case and is an electric switch for the 4WD light. Is this correct? Otherwise, I was going to see what the Ford version of the NV271 used for a indicator switch. Thanks.
 
Yes, some later model '02s didn't have the CAD. I actually got the VIN off my cousins to do away with the CAD on one of my '98s. I think the switch goes in the place of the vacuum switch on the top of the T-case, which activates the 4x4 light. I'm not sure if you can reroute your wires from your front axle to the t-case and use the NP271 switch... . or change the pigtails... . your NP 241 had an electric switch to indicate 4 low range, did it not? The Ford version should be similar.
 
Older t-cases, such as NP205 and NP208 from Chevys have a t-case mounted switch that does nothing but activate a dash indicator light when in 4wd. The question would be whether your 271 has a mounting hole for the screw-in switch.



If not, simply (or not so simply) fabricating a bracket with a plunger switch (maybe a door jamb switch for the dome light), activated by your t-case linkage, would be one option. Trouble is, will it require two different switches then to work in both 4HI and 4LO? I just don't have a 271 to look at. But you can certainly find a way to get your 4x4 light to function. If you wire it yourself, try to keep the negative side the switched one.



BTW: I would be interested in more info on your Ford hub conversion. Did you go with the Ford dual piston calipers?
 
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SRath, I used the Dodge inner spindle and ball joints. I took the outer spindle and hub from a 92 Ford F-250 with a Dana 60. I welded up the 5 holes in the Ford spindle, mounted it into the Dodge inner spindle, used a centering punch, marked the 4 Dodge holes and re-drilled. I went with 35 spline inner and outer axle shafts. The outers measure 11. 4" long. I went with the Ford rotors and the Dodge calipers. The truck this axle went under is used mainly for truck pulling. If I was going to use on the street, I may have gave more thought to using the Ford inner spindle and Ford dual-piston calipers. This axle also received the one-piece axleshaft on the right side and eliminated the CAD. I installed a spool in this axle, installed a drive flange on the right side and a Warn premium locking hub on the left side. If you have any more questions, let me know. I have some pics of some of these parts that I could send you. I would post them, but I don't know how.
 
Don't forget, the NP 271 had an indicator switch, as well. And the 241 had a switch on it, as well as on the front axle, to indicate low range. I think they were the same switch, with an indention ball.
 
HHhuntitall, I thought about pulling the light switch out of the CAD on the axle I removed. From looking at the pics in Geno's catalog, I thought they were different. I will look into this in the morning. Thanks.
 
I have everything except the calipers and the axle shafts to go "all-ford" from the knuckles out. I need 35-spline axle shafts for the 35-spline lockouts. I figure by staying "all-ford" I could also use their dual-piston calipers with (if necessary) a brakeline adapter and even get rid of that convoluted Dodge front brake hose. The dual-piston calipers might even add a bit more braking power.



I gather parts for awhile; then build my funds up again; then buy some more. It's taking longer than the dodge can bear to save up for the axle shafts. As for the t-case issue; I'm replacing the NV4500/NP241dld with an NV5600 and NP205 (also ford). Doesn't get much tougher than that. But the really slick cable shifter for the t-case will also take some time to buy, but will solve several potential problems. Lots of $$ though. meanwhile, the dodge seems hell-bent on destroying itself before I can get it all done. It keeps destroying and blowing left-front tires and the last one did some serious damage.



After so much time and money, and facing more body repair now, I'm looking harder and harder at just yanking the cummins and transplanting it in a much tougher truck that needs a whole lot less than the dodge now does. It's a real love-hate deal with the dodge. I love the p7100 cummins, but I shoulda just gone with a '93 dodge if they only had a roomier cab... they just never quite built what it is I want.
 
Well, I looked at the notes from my build up, and plan to look at the carcass of the old Coyote Interceptor, but I think I used a BWD FWD23 and PT5644 pigtail on the old NP205 in it. It's just a switch, but used the rotating cam plate in the t-case to actuate. Same as if you used the vacuum switch on the np241, but it only has one circuit. For 4 low, I don't know what you'd do. Maybe it had two circuits... ... I can't remember if the 4 low light worked or not..... I never used it, it moved too slow. . :D
 
I don't know if you ever found the switch you needed, but the one for a late 2nd gen without a CAD is J8134473; Dorman #600-511



Came across this tonight in a search, had the number in my notebook.....
 
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