Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) eliminating grid heaters ?

[SFrey]

was anyone removed the grid heaters all together ? just wondering how it would act. my fuel heater is already removed, due to fass system. if i were to plug it in at night with no fuel /grid heaters would it start on a cold night.



scot

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

I'm sure it will start without the grid heaters if you keep it plugged in, but I'm curious why you want to do it. Also, what will you do if you park it overnight someplace else? or at a friend's house? I can't believe thay'd be an intake restriction... but I'be been wrong before.

Joe

 

[DonTX]

The Executive diesel pusher RV I just sold, used a 5. 9 cummins for power, it had no grids, never a problem in any reasonable weather. In the event you get in in Unreasonable weather, just plug it in, better than grids anyhow.

 

[bighammer]

Without the grids, you could give it a shot of ether if necessary.

 

[DonTX]

I have considered removing mine, since it never has to start in anything less than about 60 degrees. Looks to me it would improve airflow somewhat, but I have never actually looked at how much restriction there is from it. .

 

[6BT-Dakota]

When we did my Dakota we decided because it was going to be a "show truck" and mostly driven in the summer hot months to delete my grid heaters nd remove the grids in the intake manifold. Well their were a couple of shows in November and December that were in the low 30's in the morning maybe even colder. It was very hard to start in the morning. Infact I killed a battery cranking it. I do only have one battery due to not having enough room for 2. My personal advice to you especially seeing as I see that you live in PA like I do I would not get rid of them. If you lived in Arizona or a warm climate no problem but not here. Just my . 02.



Rob

 

[SFrey]

rob,

did you have the block heater plugged in ?



scot

 

[SFrey]

also wondering, if the grids are removed i could use one battery then ??? it would make rome for something else...



scot

 

[tp0d]

2 batts are mainly for the high draw from the starter, its almost 2x the power of a gasser starter due to the high compression in a diesel. .

you could possibly get one larger batt to replace both, some have done that, but I wouldnt rely on it in the winter, when cranking is harder, and also longer. .

what happens when you cant plug in the block heater? call AAA? Only idea I would recommend rather than taking them out would be to disconnect the relays so they only run when you absolutely need them.

good luck

-j

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a shot of ether and some heavy right pedal should light one off...

 

[Skydiver]

I keep my grids disconnected at the solenoid until below 25 degs. 1 small wire pulled from each solenoid. Reason is, the grids (in my opinion) overwork the alt. I try to remember to reconnect the grids at 25 but have started the Cummins at 19 degrees F cold soaked. It might be a good idea to notify the fire dept. before cranking. Smokes real bad for a half a minute.



I always try to plug in block heat when below 50 degs. Reason, Warm oil moves faster than cold oil.

SFrey,may I suggest disconnecting 1 wire from each solenoid for 1 real cold snap. That way you will know if it will start.



1 battery = 1 failed starter. Starters are "series wound" meaning the slower they turn the more amps they will pull. More amps = more heat.

 

[DonTX]

Well said there. I still wonder if removing them from the airflow would enhance the normal engine performance. I would not give a nickel to make mine work again if the grids quit.

I keep my grids disconnected at the solenoid until below 25 degs. 1 small wire pulled from each solenoid. Reason is, the grids (in my opinion) overwork the alt. I try to remember to reconnect the grids at 25 but have started the Cummins at 19 degrees F cold soaked. It might be a good idea to notify the fire dept. before cranking. Smokes real bad for a half a minute.



I always try to plug in block heat when below 50 degs. Reason, Warm oil moves faster than cold oil.

SFrey,may I suggest disconnecting 1 wire from each solenoid for 1 real cold snap. That way you will know if it will start.



1 battery = 1 failed starter. Starters are "series wound" meaning the slower they turn the more amps they will pull. More amps = more heat.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Should have done it years ago...

One of the best mods I have ever done. Just unhooked the brown wire ('94) leading to the solenoids from the + left side battery. If I ever run into problems I can hook it back up in a matter of seconds. But keep in mind the coldest I have started it was about 15°. I have found the best way is to hit the starter & don't give the engine any throttle. The engine will shake a little bit, and may smoke but after about 30 seconds it runs fine.



If you give it throttle, it starts rougher.



No more heavy battery draw.



The grid heaters are in place for emmissions reasons (from what I have read).

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I leave mine disconnected, but the question on the table is if there's any performance difference by removing the restriction of the grids from the intake tract.

 

[MStrain]

I just installed the Pro Flo intake and intake spacer from GDP which replaces the factory grid heater, and no problems so far. The intake heater is really restrictive, so for 80 I got a wide open billet spacer, it looks cool too. On the install you completeley remove the wiring and grid heater, I just drove up to Paso Robles and back for work, and got 550 miles out of the tank, which is almost 16 mpg, I was doing 80 most of the time and was only loaded with gear on the way up, but I don't think I got much of a mileage improvement which is what I was hoping for.

 

[FordCummins]

Ive thought about removing the grid heaters on my 12V after doing the Cummins swap. They still arent hooked up, after 2 years Ive never had a single issue starting my truck... . with a single battery... . in 10F weather. Same old 1 second of cranking, and she's lit. A little bit more smoke for a second, and then its ready to run. I guess I might as well pull them out and enjoy the benefits of a little more air flow.....

 

[DonTX]

Most interesting! I had not known that anybody other than I ever considered the air flow and removing the heater. Who is GDP? I want to know more! Got any photos?

I just installed the Pro Flo intake and intake spacer from GDP which replaces the factory grid heater, and no problems so far. The intake heater is really restrictive, so for 80 I got a wide open billet spacer, it looks cool too. On the install you completeley remove the wiring and grid heater, I just drove up to Paso Robles and back for work, and got 550 miles out of the tank, which is almost 16 mpg, I was doing 80 most of the time and was only loaded with gear on the way up, but I don't think I got much of a mileage improvement which is what I was hoping for.

 

[MStrain]

GDP is Glacier Diesel Power, Glacier Diesel Power, they make some cool products for our trucks, so far all I got from them was the intake manifold and the grid heater spacer. They were great to deal with, fast reply to email and fast ship out. The stuff looks cool under the hood, I will post pics a little later when I get a chance.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a couple guys on CompD are reporting a little better spool up and less boost (restriction) at the intake hat. sounds like a worthy mod for warm wearther folk. I think I'm going to remove mine (12v, can't run a spacer) just for grins

 

[DonTX]

I noticed they don't make one for my 12v either. Wonder why?