embedded brake controller!

[klacoss]

After reading all the answers I received from my last post I had decided to remove the factory brake controller on my 2010 2500 Diesel and replace it with a after market controller. I took my truck to Crenwelge Dodge in Kerrville, Texas and they told me that the factory controller could not be removed from the software! They said that because the truck was built with the controller in it it would have to be left there. This does not make sense to me so maybe someone out there could enlighten me as to what can be done to solve my problem.

The factory controller just applies a small amount of braking, hardly noticeable no matter where the gain is set! If I pull the break away pin, the brakes lock up tight. I have checked the grounds for proper connection and connectivity and the controller is getting 12v from the feed. I called the Chrysler customer hot line and they said if the dealer said the controller could not be removed then it couldn't!

HELP!!

Ken

 

[Mingoglia]

I have an "old" truck, so I don't have a built in. I will say though that pulling the break away you're getting "full power" from the battery built on the trailer. When braking through the brake controller you're just getting power from the plug of the trailer. When I've tested my break away, it seemed to me it was more powerful as well. Are your trailer brakes on the trailer adjusted properly? What happens when you put up the gain all the way, drive ~25mph and manually activate them fully?

 

[sag2]

The guys (some at least) at Star now have the ability to remove sales codes. Have your dealer send them your VIN and the sales code and they can remove it. Once removed the dealer has to reconfigure the truck to get rid of the option. If they can't figure it out, have the dealer contact their Technical Advisor.

 

[crispyboy]

There is also a possibility that the controller itself or wire going to the umbilical connector could be faulty. I once had a Prodigy P2 that would not put out any power for trailer brakes. The 2010 and 2011 controllers were not the best. 2012 brought improvements. I would attempt to fix what you have since it would be better than other controllers (if working properly) since Maxbrake is out of business.

Here are two post I quickly found that may help. Search this 4th Generation forum for more posts, there are many.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/243269-Disable-Integrated-Brake-Controller?highlight=brake+controller

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/242886-2010-Ram-2500-Integrated-Brake-Controller?highlight=brake+controller

 

[amsoilman]

The factory trailer brake control on my 10' DODGE works very well! I have no complaints at all regarding the controller. I have never expected it to "LOCK" up the brakes on my trailer.

 

[Mingoglia]

The factory trailer brake control on my 10' DODGE works very well! I have no complaints at all regarding the controller. I have never expected it to "LOCK" up the brakes on my trailer.

This is why I think it's important to check the trailer itself, and not assume it's the brake controller. I currently have 3 trailers. A double axle toy hauler which weighs about 11k lbs. There are brakes on both axles. I also have a 16' and a 18' car hauler, with brakes on a single axle (these range about 7-8k lbs loaded). On my heavy trailer, I can lock all 4 wheels up instantly, with my second gen and Prodigy controller. With my 18' I can lock up the single axle pretty well, but it hesitates a second or two (this is with a ~5k lb Jeep on it). On my 16', with the same Jeep, it won't even get close to locking up. All of this is with exactly the same truck/controller. As you can see, there's a lot of other variables which ultimately effect your ability to stop a trailer, past the brake controller itself. Would suck to go through all the effort of disabling your built in controller and hacking something else together just to find you're in the same spot.

 

[klacoss]

embedded brake controller.
The trailer has all new magnets, shoes, wiring. The brakes were adjusted after the rebuild. This repair was done due poor trailer brakes when towing. When towing the trailer and applying the brakes manually, through the controller, there is almost no noticeable drag that can be felt in the truck. The recommended test of the trailer when first hooked up is to apply the brakes manually and check the wheels do lock up, that does not happen as a matter of fact the wheels do not even skid in the gravel! I don't understand why this software patch is so difficult. This vehicle could have been ordered without the embedded controller without rebuilding the whole vehicle.....right!

Someone out there must know how to correct this problem but I think Dodge just can't be bothered since the truck has already been sold......to me!

A very frustrated Ken!

 

[Mingoglia]

I helped a buddy of mine about a month ago who was frustrated with his brand new brakes he put on his car hauler. New shoes and drums and self adjusting brakes. First, I still had to manually adjust the brakes for him, despite them being self adjusting. It's my understanding after 500 miles or so they'll adjust themselves. Lastly, it required a whole bunch of stops and dragging his brakes for them to break in enough for them to actually work. By the end of the afternoon he was locking them up. I'm not sure of your capability, but I'd suggest if you can't manually adjust them, you may consider having someone with experience with these help. I'm sure this is the issue.

 

[sag2]

Someone out there must know how to correct this problem but I think Dodge just can't be bothered since the truck has already been sold......to me!

A very frustrated Ken!

Did you read post 3 above?