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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Emergency!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FASS pump question/issue?

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My 2001, truck starts and runs. Then it takes off, running on it's own, RPM's up and down all by it's self. Seems to be a computer short! It starts, it runs, I can move it out in the yard, can't touch the pedal, it may idle or take off on a rampage and try to ram a building.

I thought it may be an apps thing, I replaced the apps and reset the computer by disconnecting the batteries for 2 hours. It's still surging on it's own and throwing codes. not driveable.

I posted earlier todayMy 2001 acted up last night. I needed to tow a friend back to my garage for repairs in a warmer atmosphere. We were at a light, foot on the brake... engine surged real hard repeatedly, scary hard, like gonna take off and run the red light. Took it out for a test drive. It revs up in neutral but won't go over 1500 rpms in drive. Surges when not touching the pedal, get a dead pedal feeling when trying to accelerate.

Codes are 113, 121, 118, 238, 343, 523, 563, 622, 753, 1475, 1693, 1765.

Most are voltage codes, excessive voltage to ECM, excessive voltage to gauges, etc. The transmission codes are normal since the full DTT trans was installed. Fuel pressure is normal 15 p. s. i. .

I've notice the APPS has been acting up when cold or damp, usually straightens itself out after it warms up during snow plowing. It has a dead spot around 70mph and will hesitate, then take off as I move the pedal around. It does this in lower gears as well, hesitate, then surge as the pedal is moved.

Should I start with the APPS or look at the wiring to the new alternator? Alternator was installed in October, and I had a re-route a wire and it's now tight against the alt. housing.

Maybe I'll start with a piece of rubber around that wire and then go in and clean the APPS connection AGAIN! I cleaned it and used dielectric grease last spring.

Anyone else have any ideas? Need to plow snow tonight and tomorrow. Can't have it trying to accelerate when I'm plowing, I often back up close to parked cars & such.

Thanks in advance.
 
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If most the codes are excess voltage codes have you checked the voltage coming of the alternator?
 
You can test if it's the alternator pretty easily by disconnecting the battery cable running to the alternator. Disconnect it and then tape it up. I've been told that this can fry an otherwise good alternator if you run it for too long but can't verify that. I had a case where a diode was going bad on my alternator and it was causing all sorts of fueling issues with my TST box. I disconnected the alternator like this and drove it up and down the street and that proved it was the alternator - replaced it and the problems went away.
 
What Steve said is correct, and a quick easy way to check. . But the rumor's he has heard are the same one's I have heard. . An alternator needs' a load to keep it operational.



You may be able to disconnect the pass battery from the drivers battery and do the same check without taking away the load. I know on my 3rd gen the ECM gets power from the drivers batt, all the pass batt powers directly is the grid heater .
 
Guys,



Based on all those DTC's (I reviewed them all in the Dodge Diagnostic Procedures Manual) it points to excessive voltage of the 5v sensor supply circuit. This circuit is provided by the ECM.



Because so many independent and unrelated sensor circuits are affected, it suggests the problem lies within the ECM itself. This also isn't a case where a single sensor circuit is shorted to battery voltage.



After verifying the battery / charging voltage isn't excessive (I kind of doubt it) I think he needs to try and get his hands on a replacement ECM.



Best regards,



John L.
 
You need a load to test the alternator but it can run unloaded all day long. Hooking up a battery to the alternator without a voltage regulator (which is in the ECM) is asking for trouble.
 
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