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Empty trailer hammer

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Not sure what it is called but I am looking for one.

Ozymandias is in the States

I have a 2014 10000# 20 foot flat bed car hauler/equipment hauler.
Empty it just hammers the truck just bangs hard every bump or wrinkle in the road.
Loaded it is smooth from hauling a Jeep Grand Cherokee to a 98 dodge ext cab cummins.
Is there a fix for the empty hammer besides putting weight on the trailer.

Casey
 
Lower tire pressure is the most simple way.

That's what I do with my 14k tilt when running empty. Mine doesn't hammer the truck per say but it is definitely rougher empty vs loaded.

The only down side is you have to have a way to air them back up once you get to where your going.

Also if the trailer is a leaf spring set up make sure you don't have any siezed bushings.
 
I have a Shocker Hitch receiver. Check them out. It's an air ride and its great. Smooth's out the ride, less bucking etc.
It's better than sliced bread.
 
Etrailer has half dozen or so Anti Rattle devises. They sent me a note on anew one they just introduced but I don't have it now.
 
Thanks for the advice. It is not just a rattle it is bucking and hammering bad. My wife and I had to go to the rescue for 400 miles empty and we were real tired of the trailer telling us it was behind us the whole time. Loaded it is smooth as can be.

Casey
 
Only time trailer have pounded like that is from bent axles. Get to 35/40 mph and it feel like the trailer is jumping up and down.
 
Pardon the obvious question, but have the trailer tires been road force balanced and checked for runout? When unloaded, the unsprung-to-sprung weight ratio is very high, so any tire imbalance or runout will set up a vibration in the unsprung weight (wheels, tires, axles, 1/2 of springs, etc.) that will shake the heck out of the trailer due to its low sprung weight when empty. When loaded, it's much more difficult for the imbalance/runout forces to move the higher sprung trailer mass.

Rusty
 
I have 2 9000 lb. torsion axles under my trailer, it's a little bouncy empty, but doesn't sound like your description, is yours torsion or springs?,mine is a total length of 30 ft. gooseneck too, Monte
 
The trailer has about 3500 miles on it it has Dexter 5200# spring axles. It has hauled a Cadillac, Jeep Grand Cherokee and a 98 12v 5speed 4x4 extended cab. The hammer happens mostly when crossing bridges, road surface changes and bumps in the road. Yes those cause every trailer to jolt, I get a hammer that is really uncomfortable on 8 hour trip of empty trailer. I lower the air bags on my truck to 5 psi when empty I have tried many different pressures when empty then air them up again when loaded I have had trailers with the tire problems and that seems to be quite a bit different then this The axles are brand new and the tire wear is unnoticeable. the next trip I am going to try to set my tools and tool box on the tongue and all the chains and tie down straps on the tongue as close as possible to the truck. I have towed many other trailer and never had the hammer this severe.
Thanks for all the replies and keep replying I will look at the tires and axles when i get it into my shop.
 
Try zero air pressure in the air bags. That light weight trailer should not bother your 7,000+ lb. truck.

Nick
 
Next time you have the trailer hooked up, get your crowbar out and look for any slop anywhere in the hitch. Try prying between the hitch on the truck and the trailer and look for any movement. Typically there's slop between the receiver on the truck and the hitch insert, there may also be slop between the ball and the trailer. Any movement here will cause the the trailer to hammer like crazy. Putting a load on it tends keep it on one side or the other, which may be why it quietens down with load.

I switched out the pin on my drawbar with a 5/8" grade 8 bolt with a 5/8 cone shaped lug nut on each end. When I put the insert in place, I crank the lug nuts down tight against each side of the receiver. It took out about half the slop, there is still movement between the insert and the bolt, so I plan to weld the inside of the insert then re-drill to something closer to 5/8". It feels like it was drilled to about 3/4"...
 
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