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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Engine Block Heater

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission trip comp install...

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It pulls about 700 watts



I do this on a cold day, I first go out on the morning and plug it in, then start up the truck. (these trucks start up ok even if not plugged in) then while the engine is running, go get your coffee,



The coolant is circulating past the heater and theus heating it fast



and by the time you return, the engine coolant will be at 70 deg. Unplug and go, you will have warm air in 1 min. So only 3-4 min of 700 watts occured so the elect. bill wont be too much
 
Originally posted by EricBu12

It pulls about 700 watts



I do this on a cold day, I first go out on the morning and plug it in, then start up the truck. (these trucks start up ok even if not plugged in) then while the engine is running, go get your coffee,



The coolant is circulating past the heater and theus heating it fast



and by the time you return, the engine coolant will be at 70 deg. Unplug and go, you will have warm air in 1 min. So only 3-4 min of 700 watts occured so the elect. bill wont be too much



How cold are you talking, How long to warm up at 10 to -10 degs. I thought of putting the heater on a timer to come on 1 to 2 hours before I leave for work?



KC
 
Better make it a quick cup of coffee.

Not good to let a Cummins idle to long when it's cold (or hot). Better to fire it up, let the oil pressure come up, drive real easy. Beyond that, use an exhaust brake to heat it more quickly. Or spring for an Espar heater or the like.



I plug mine in for an hour if it's below say 30.
 
I didn't realize that the heaters drew that much! I don't pay for 'lectricity where I live and have been plugging in at night and keep her warmed thru the night- 8 to 10 hours. Will it hurt any thing to keep it plugged in for so long (other than the higher bill for power?) -thanx, frank
 
I dont know if there is a thermostat on it that cycles or not. I dont think it would hurt any thing to leave it on all night. When I get home tonight ill plug it in with a hot engine. If it does not draw current ill assume it has a satisfied stat. Then as it cools it should turn on. Ill let you know what I find.
 
Running?

I don't think you want to run the engine while the heater is energized. This causes a buidup of scale from the water onto the heating element. As others said, you don/t want to idle it too long anyway. Have your dealer flash the cold idle for you. We do not charge for this service at our dealership, and you will also get a power upgrade with the cold flash.

Ron
 
ol ron- I agree with you as to not run the engine while plugged in. I will however, START while connected THEN disconnect which I believe is doing no harm. Question though-- what is a “flash” (is re- flash the same thing?) I’ve seen it mentioned in several threads elsewhere. Will a “cold flash” have to be re set in the summer to a “hot flash?” We could call this warmer setting a “menopause mode” … i. e. hot flash. (ouch …sorry ‘bout that one) Seriously… will this cold mode help me in my locale? (10,000 feet and below zero temps already!) thanx- frank
 
The block heater does not have a thermostat. It will run continuos from the time you plug it in until you <em>pull the plug</em>. Hurts nothing but your power bill. Use a timer if you want to cut back. At only 700 watts you will need up to 4-5 hours of heating in cold weather.



Espar.....

At 4,100 to 3,300 watts you need much less time compared to a block heater. You can also run it in the parking lot at work; the movie theater lot; the shopping mall; Home Depot; and on and on.

Guess which one I have and use and love?



You can run the engine with either an Espar running or the block heater plugged in. The old open coolant systems were not as tolerant.



Idle time?

The 12 valvers can idle at will. The ISB need to limit idle times or go for a fast idle (1,100 rpm) arrangement. An exhaust brake will load your engine and you can idle and warm the engine much faster.



Flash is for the 24 valve gang.



Happy with my Espar.....
 
If you have the 24Valve it is recommend that you leave it plugged in while letting it warm up. Your anti freeze should be mixed either 50/50 or 60/40 you do not have to worry about it boiling dry from being plugged in. You can purchase energy saving devices that plug in line or mount on your vehicle to turn the power on or off. One item called the Thermo Cube plugs in the outlet and will turn the power on when it drops to 20 degrees and shuts off at 40 degrees. There was one that I found made in Canada that works on temperature and has a timer built in it I have never used that unit but will buy one and test it. Will post results from test. Your block heater is rated at 700 watt most people are paying $. 05 per KW hour. If your vehicle is plugged in for 8 hours you will use 5600Watts it will cost you 28 cents to plug in.
 
Originally posted by dpetre

If you have the 24Valve it is recommend that you leave it plugged in while letting it warm up. Your anti freeze should be mixed either 50/50 or 60/40 you do not have to worry about it boiling dry from being plugged in. You can purchase energy saving devices that plug in line or mount on your vehicle to turn the power on or off. One item called the Thermo Cube plugs in the outlet and will turn the power on when it drops to 20 degrees and shuts off at 40 degrees. There was one that I found made in Canada that works on temperature and has a timer built in it I have never used that unit but will buy one and test it. Will post results from test. Your block heater is rated at 700 watt most people are paying $. 05 per KW hour. If your vehicle is plugged in for 8 hours you will use 5600Watts it will cost you 28 cents to plug in.



Were can you buy this Thermo cube at?



KC
 
Originally posted by D6Diesel

May be best to unplug prior to starting as the suddden rush of cold coolant on the heater element could cause it to crack.
I start mine up and let it idle while I wind up my cord. I do the same thing with my tractors. Never had one crack yet. Anyone else?
 
Ryan I got the information on leaving the vehicle plug in from another thread on this site about cold weather idling. That information in turn was supplied by Cummins. If I remember right the 24Valve have a problem in cold weather with the extended idle operation that cause varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems,leading to stuck valves, and damage valve train components. There are several ways to help prevent this. First plug your Block heater and allow your block heater to warm up. 2. Install oil pan heater 3. Have dealer calibrate vehicle soft ware for cold weather starting... This process allows vehicle to run on warm up on three cylinders until vehicle reaches 140 degrees 4. If equiped turn on exhaust brake Leaving the block heater plugged in allows for faster warm up. I hope this has answered your question. I have learned alot from reading on this web site I only wish I could remember it all. Good luck to and happy holiday's.
 
Originally posted by QRTRHRS

I start mine up and let it idle while I wind up my cord. I do the same thing with my tractors. Never had one crack yet. Anyone else?
I guess the on the newer rigs Dodge saved a dime and you have open the hood to get at the plug. Not so on my '95s, it makes it past the front bumper. Knowing that I'd forget to unplug at least once before pulling away I made my setup bomb proof, don't even unplug by hand at all anymore, just back out. Extension cord hangs from a rafter and makes a good target for pulling in. Seven winters of this abuse with no problems.



BTW a Thermo-Cube won't work well under the hood, it gets too warm under there with block heater going. Engine will get barely warm before it shuts down. Best to have the cube outside of the truck.
 
Ryan here is one of the sources of info I quoted.

Subject : ISB Sticking Valves/Bent Push Tubes

Product Name: MR - ISB/QSB SPT Group : 002 Cylinder Head

Date: 01/06/2000 Equipment Application : ALL

Distribution : Internal and Distributor Service Information Originator : Daniel Fedewa

Warranty Impact:



As the ambient air temperatures have started to drop in out Northern Regions we are reminding the field, by this Thursday Note, on the ISB sticking valve / bent push tube issue. The 4 valve cylinder head on the ISB runs at a cooler temperature, which in some cases is allowing tar to condense on the exhaust valves. This may result in sticky valves and bent push tubes. The 2 valve head runs at a hotter temperature, thus preventing the tar build up. To reduce the risk, the following recommendations should be followed. This may be found in the PITs document "JJGN-44BKRU"



STICKING VALVES - SERVICE PLAN



Short Term:



Reactive short term: Repair and clean cylinder head as required.



Proactive short term: To prevent or decrease the risk of this occurring to an engine which frequently idles for long periods of time in arctic temperatures, Cummins recommends the following:



Use of a winter front on these trucks

Use of a block heater when the engine is idling.

If the truck is already equipped with an exhaust brake, it should be turned on during idle

Prior to shutting off the engine after extended idling (6 hrs) it is important to bring the engine to operating temperature (minimum of 140 degrees) to remove any carbon build up on the valves. This can be accomplished by driving the vehicle for 20-30 minutes or;

NON-Chrysler: Operate the engine at high idle for 5 minutes or until engine reaches 140°F.

Chrysler: Run the truck at 2000 rpm for two minutes, 3000 rpm for two minutes and then 3500 rpm for two minutes, until the engine reaches at least 140°F.









--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I hope that is what you requested.
 
Lots of great information in this post.



I have a few questions though.



1. Since the block heater only draws 700 watts can I splice into the cord and attach an oil pan heater to the same wire? I was thinking of the one that is a flat piece of plastic and you use RTV to attach. Also, would a trickle charger for the batteries attached to the same wire be OK?

My old Ford had a 1500? watt heater and used the same size feed wire. I don't want to short anything or burn the truck up though.



2. As long as the temperature is 140 degrees is that hot enough to prevent bent push tubes? My truck never gets to 190 degrees even with a cold front.



3. Ol Ron, you mentioned that there is also a power increase with the cold weather re-flash. Could you elaborate on that?



Thanks.
 
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