2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Engine Block Heater

[dpetre]

I would not recommend splicing into the cord. You can buy a 3 way splitter or you can install a 4 by 4 box with two duplex outlets in it. You should use 14/3 wire that is rated for cold weather outdoor use. You use RTV to attach the silicon heaters to the pan and to the auto trans. You can use the same type silicon heater for the battery or use a trickle charger. You may have a 180 therostat so even with the cold front you may not get to the 190 mark. The 140 tem is the setting that the cold weather starting shuts off and the recommend operating tem by Cummins. You should not have a problem with the valves as long as you do not do prolong idling. As far as the increase power I do not have any idea. Good luck. Dennis

 

[jalberring]

Thanks Dennis,



When using the duplex or splitter you are using just one feed wire (14/3 extension cord) from the house to the truck right? This one wire is large enough to feed the block heater, oil pan heater, etc.



I am assuming that the duplex outlet is mounted on the truck somewhere and all of the electrical outlets are plugged into the one box. The extension cord is then plugged into this box? Thanks again

 

[JohnE]

ALL diesel engines have a problem with cold weather and extended idling. The Cummins <em>IS-</em> family with 24 valves is even more problematic. Even with the coolant temperature up to say 140&deg;F a low idle speed will cause the valve stem varnish as the cylinder temps really drop.

I aske dthe local Dodge mechanic the most problems he sees with the Cummins in Dodge. On the 24 valve he says bent push rods is the most common.



In my business (transit buses) we have a problem with wet stacking due to vertical exhaust systems. The water from combustion condenses, mixes with unburned fuels and fouls the muffler.



I have a side question. Does anyone have an exhaust brake tied into the ECM and successfully used it at idle? I deal with non Dodge Cummins engines and the ECM trigger for an exhaust brake drops out at engine sppeds less than 1,000 rpm. Of course, we also trigger the PTO pin and get 1,200 rpm high idle.



I changed to a BHAF this summer. I'm curious to see if it helps or hurts winter idling by drawing more air from the warm underhood area. I may have to install an intake temp probe as illflem.



<em>edit

Most people around here that have multiple cords use a 3 way tap. That way it is only a single plug in point with the extension cord.

I second mounting a box with receptacle under the hood to plug in the block heater and pan warmer plugs. Run a single SO rated cord out to where you want to plug it in. For my block heater, I left the cord coiled on the radiator frame and open the hood. If I'm in an area that drop cords tend to walk away I can lock it under the hood. At least they won't get a functional cord.

Now, I just use the Espar unless inside a parking garage or other confined area. I do get funny looks from people or comments as "that sure is a quiet running diesel".

</em>



-John

 

[Thomas]

John,



Pin #20 of the ECM is used to trigger several of the Ram/Cummins exhaust brakes. Pin #20 is active anytime the engine has been in an unfueled condition more than 1-2 seconds—period.

 

[JohnE]

Thanks!



The regular Cummins (non Dodge) ECM logic is similar.

TPS at zero for a measured time, PTO off, and engine speed above 1,000 rpm are the primary controls.



-John

 

[dpetre]

jalberring



When figuring the size of wire that you are going to use to power the recepticals in your vehicle you must add the total wattage and divided that by the applied voltage. Example bock heater 700 watts, oil pan heater 100 watts, 2 battery heaters 100 watts each, 1 transmittion heater 100 watts. Total 1100 watts divide that by 120 gives you a total of 9. 1 amps cord size would be 16/3. I normally mount the 4by 4 box inside the engine compartment on the passenger side. Try to center the box to where all cords can reach it. On the two outlets you will have to make a jumper from one out let to the other. Gold screw is hot, silver is the neutral, and green is ground. Do not tie the ground and neutral together as this will make any GFI breaker or outlet not work right. I buy Cold weathher flex cords from Sam,s and cut the female end off and use it to tie the box to the extension cord it is cheaper that buying the cord and putting the ends on the cord. When you buy your box you will need a 1/2" box cord connector and a duplex box cover. If you decide to add an interior heater you will have to change you cord size to 14/3 or 12/3 depending on the amount of amps the interior heater pulls.

Good luck Dennis

 

[JJW_ND]

Just an observation??

On my work 2001 6sp with a EBrake and the coldweather idle flash... . when the engine idles up (cold start) I can still turn on the Ebrake and it WILL come on even at the 1200 rpms. It appears what ever is bumping the idle is not seem by the ebrake.



Ebrake on and 1200 rpms makes for a very quick warmup.



jjw

ND

 

[Berrigan]

Well i did my little test and the heater does not cycle. As a previous post said it heats continually when plugged in regardless of the block temp.