Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Break-in

[DieselPuter]

Anyone here know the proper procedure for a rebuilt motor (my self) when it first fires??



Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!



Jon

 

[Bullhauler101]

Our Procedure

on the big trucks after a major overhaul is as follows:



(1) Whatever you do, do not let the engine run cool. This means ABSOLUTELY NO IDLING. (well let the turbo cool down before you shut it off). If you have to idle to sleep in cold weather or something, then turn on your high idle.



In the mornings, start it up and ease on down the road to let temp build gradually, and then when it gets up to operating temp ... run the hell out of it ... meaning put it under as much of a load as you can (not run as fast as you can) and absolutely eliminate those stop and go trips to the post office.



(2) Do your first oil change at 2500 mi or so; we do the first change at 5000 on the big rigs, and then go to 15000 mi.



(3) I would presume after about 5-6000 mi on your truck, you should be able to operate normal, because valves should be seated etc.



Personally speaking ... I have an 08 MEGA Cab and I don't even start it up unless I'm going at least 50 miles. I use a couple of Rangers for the short stuff.



The absolute worst thing you can do to a diesel is crank it up for a couple of minutes & shut it off ... just to see if it will start ... or go uptown to drink coffee with all the guys.



Just my $. 02



BH

 

[GDMRTN]

A local machine shop told us to fire it up with no water in the block. Let run for 5 - 8 minits or until head temp reaches 200* (You MUST wait till it cools to fill with water)
He's been in business for many years and he says never a problem this way. That's how i do all my engines and it works quite well.
I always use thinner oil for the breakin and go no more than 1000 mile before changing.
And definitly as little idle time as possible. This cannot be stressed enough.
Just my overpriced $. 02

 

[DieselPuter]

What should I run as far as RPM while she reaches 200*??

Jon

 

[DPellegrin]

I would not start the engine without coolant. I have never seen them do that at the engine assembly plant and I have spent a little time at both Cummins and Detroit Diesel plants. One of the purposes of coolant in an engine is to transfer heat from the high heat flux areas like the cylinder head to lower heat flux areas so that there is uniform thermal expansion of the engine block.



If you have installed a new camshaft I would fill the crankcase with a 15W-40 oil with at least 0. 1% phosphous and run the engine between 1000-1200rpm no-load for 20 minutes with coolant in it! After that just drive it normally and try to avoid extended peak torque runs and make the first oil change at 2500-3000 miles.

 

[GDMRTN]

High idle like 1000 rpm or so until it warms up. The purpose of doin this is high heat immediatly on the rings. If there is water in the block it will dissipate the heat. I know there will be people who don't like this procedure and I just throw it in as another way of doin it. The only purpose for running thinner oil at first is because of tight bearing tolerance. The thicker oil can't flow thru as easy. And if you don't change your oil soon enough the first time it will cause excessive wear as the oil collects the metal wear particles from initial breakin.

Just a thought on how far to go on the first oil change, we are a Jasper dealer and they specify the oil and filter MUST be changed at around 500 miles.

I went about 750 mile on my engine with 10/30 oil. It was a new cummins industrial engine put in to replace 53 block.

 

[Cummins724]

After Cummins rebuilt my engine due to 53 failure, they told me to run it like I stole it & tow heavy right away if I don't want it to start burning oil in 30k miles.

 

[WestTN]

Treat it like a new engine. Just get in and drive it. If you need to tow something, go ahead and do it. In other words, foget about breakin. Do you think any Cummins equipped industrial or commercial equipment gets special treatment?

 

[obert]

... run the hell out of it ...

:-laf:-laf YUP!! You need to get those rings set in. When my uncle worked for an ag dealer, the answer was get that thing hooked to a plow and head for some black ground!

 

[GeneA]

I had to replace a shelled engine with a remanned long block. The work was done at a Freightliner facility and they told me to run it hard after bringing it up to operating temps and change out the oil and filter a "little" sooner --at about 3k miles. By running hard for me is GCW of 22k or thereabouts at highway speeds and 2200 rpm. It's been about 15k and doing fine.