Engine Break-in

[Pit Bull]

Re: Break in ...

Originally posted by Ben Rumson







Best break in is to be used and pressured - not babied.

Sounds like Marine Corp boot camp



I just drive mine like I am going to use it. I also plug in under 40 degrees and take it easy until it is up to operating temperture. This truck will last longer than I will care to drive it.

 

[Jeremiah]

Re: Break in ...

Originally posted by Ben Rumson

Call the Cummins techs at 1-800-Diesels. They'll set the record straight for proper breakin.



They will tell you to work the engine through all ranges, gradually increasing in speed - this includes compression. They will also tell you to get a load on it and head for the hills and get everything "set" inside the engine under varying speeds and load situations.



Best break in is to be used and pressured - not babied. [/QUO



Good advice. Did you have your weather front made for your truck or was it bought across the counter somewhere?

 

[SteveH]

Plug it in when it hits 40 degrees? Why? The truck started at -40 degrees in the testing phase unassisted. If you run the correct fuel (winter blend or straight #1) when it gets down to zero or below, you shouldn't have any problems. We commonly start our trucks up here in near zero or below zero conditions without plugging in. Oh well, just my 2 cents worth, to each his own. Steve H.

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by SteveH

Plug it in when it hits 40 degrees? Why? The truck started at -40 degrees in the testing phase unassisted. If you run the correct fuel (winter blend or straight #1) when it gets down to zero or below, you shouldn't have any problems. We commonly start our trucks up here in near zero or below zero conditions without plugging in. Oh well, just my 2 cents worth, to each his own. Steve H.

I imagine Pit Bull is just being extremely kind to his engine. I plug mine in at 20 degrees and have found the engine is ready to start quicker and warms up quicker.



They'll start without the heat but the engines won't like it nearly as much. Same goes for gasoline engines.



Here in Colorado at 9,000' and 20 below zero, engines struggle to turn over after sitting outside all night. Same in your state, I imagine. I've always plugged my gassers in at 20 degrees. I think that's why my Accord runs strong at 325,000 miles

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by SteveH



to each his own. Steve H.

Try it you'll like it It's easier on the CTD and it warms up quicker. But it is not a problem for me. I'm retired and never in a hurry. I alway plug it in 2 hours before I go anywhere (if its below 40 degrees and has not been driven for several hours). Even if it is in the garage. You think this is bad you should see the way I treat my dogs They each have there own chair to lay on. :-laf

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by Pit Bull

Try it you'll like it It's easier on the CTD and it warms up quicker. But it is not a problem for me. I'm retired and never in a hurry. I alway plug it in 2 hours before I go anywhere (if its below 40 degrees and has not been driven for several hours). Even if it is in the garage. You think this is bad you should see the way I treat my dogs They each have there own chair to lay on. :-laf

Har-rumph! Now you're getting personal. My two Portuguese water dogs sleep with my wife and me. They rode on pillows in the CTD all the way to Arkansas and back. Whatever those girls want, they get. I know, I know, this is a truck bulletin board so onward and upward!

 

[Ben Rumson]

Re: Re: Break in ...

Originally posted by Jeremiah



Did you have your weather front made for your truck or was it bought across the counter somewhere?

I have an indudtrial sewing machine that I used to work on leather, webbing, pack cloth, heavy cordura, boat duck, etc.



I took my grill off one night and layed it on a large piece of nylon coated "back pack" cloth and cut and sewed it together.



I originally used snaps to hold 4 panels over the 4 intake holes. I could take 1,2,3 or all 4 off as needed.



I leave the bra or weatherfront on year round and cover the holes in the winter. Rather than use the snap-on flaps, I'm now using some grill inserts made out of pegboard with thick foam on the front side and "back pack" cloth stretched over the front and stapled to the back side. Now, when I fasten the inserts to the grill, the 2 screws that hold each insets in place make nice indentations in the foam and it gives a nice tuck and groove look. The fabric is all black and I found some black plastic crew caps to hide the metal holding screws.



It looks really sharp. Wish I had a digital camera... . sorry.

 

[Jeremiah]

Re: Re: Re: Break in ...

Originally posted by Ben Rumson

I have an indudtrial sewing machine that I used to work on leather, webbing, pack cloth, heavy cordura, boat duck, etc.



I took my grill off one night and layed it on a large piece of nylon coated "back pack" cloth and cut and sewed it together.



I originally used snaps to hold 4 panels over the 4 intake holes. I could take 1,2,3 or all 4 off as needed.



I leave the bra or weatherfront on year round and cover the holes in the winter. Rather than use the snap-on flaps, I'm now using some grill inserts made out of pegboard with thick foam on the front side and "back pack" cloth stretched over the front and stapled to the back side. Now, when I fasten the inserts to the grill, the 2 screws that hold each insets in place make nice indentations in the foam and it gives a nice tuck and groove look. The fabric is all black and I found some black plastic crew caps to hide the metal holding screws.



It looks really sharp. Wish I had a digital camera... . sorry.

Thanks for the quick response! You should market that sucker. They're kinda hard to find, especially on new models. My dealer couldn't even find it for an old one, although he said it sold for about $96. I have the digital camera - maybe we should go in business together.

 

[Ben Rumson]

I've made a few others for friends and they turned out good.



I about have to have the grill off the vehicle and measure each one indivudually. I've never sewn from a pattern before - always reverse engineered (fanny pack, boot gaiters, handle bar warmers).



What year's your truck? I'll start thinking about options. Perhaps a set of padded inserts?



Also, there's many ways to work with inserts. velco, zippers, eyelets with buckle, snaps, or like I'm doing now with a weather front to cover all the chrome and then padded inserts for go behind the weatherfront supports.



Probably the best thing that wouldn't require a custom fit each time, would be to make more padded inserts and not mess with the weatherfront and removal of the front grill to install.



I'm guessing about $40 a set - handmade.



PM me if your interested and I'll custom make you a set. What color is your rig. Black cloth is fairly neutral, but coudl be made in just about any color.

 

[yellow jacket]

re Engine Break-in

I drove tractor trailer for 36yrs - mostly Macks- and our head mechanic always said to run them hard. They are either all right or all wrong. I put on about 2million mi and never lost a motor. I also bought my 94 Ram new and run it the same way. It has never burned a drop of oil. I have 183k on it. That's my two cents worth.

 

[Jeremiah]

Re: re Engine Break-in

Originally posted by yellow jacket

I drove tractor trailer for 36yrs - mostly Macks- and our head mechanic always said to run them hard. They are either all right or all wrong. I put on about 2million mi and never lost a motor. I also bought my 94 Ram new and run it the same way. It has never burned a drop of oil. I have 183k on it. That's my two cents worth.

What brand oil you using, Rotella T? And did you ever run synthetic?

 

[yellow jacket]

oil used

All company Macks used 15/40 Kendall and I used the same in my Dodge from day one.

 

[John Berger]

So what has changed with these engines that would prompt DC to put a warning to not tow for the first couple of hundred miles? My 99 owner's manual says and I'm paraphrasing here, that engine run in will be enhanced by putting the truck under load. It also says that the engine does not need a break-in period. What gives with the 3rd gen motors?

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by John Berger

So what has changed with these engines that would prompt DC to put a warning to not tow for the first couple of hundred miles? My 99 owner's manual says and I'm paraphrasing here, that engine run in will be enhanced by putting the truck under load. It also says that the engine does not need a break-in period. What gives with the 3rd gen motors?

I would pose that question to a dealer or a Cummins rep. Maybe even to the TDR mag editor. I am attending a TDR rally at ATS Diesel in Denver tomorrow and will ask the question for you.



The Gen. 3 engines are new, so maybe there are requirements we don't know about. Could be the factory is CTA (which is plural for CYA ), if you know what I mean.

 

[Badunit]

Maybe it's not the engine but the differential gears that need the break-in period.

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by Badunit

Maybe it's not the engine but the differential gears that need the break-in period.

OK, from the horse's mouth (sort of), i. e. , Rocky Mountain Cummins, and I quote: "These engines are broken in when you drive 'em off the lot. Use common sense. If the oil pressure is up, drive 'em. However, if you're pulling heavy, I wouldn't hammer down until the engine coolants and oil come up to temperature.



"If you want to use synthetic oil, i. e. , Valvoline Extreme 5W30, go for it, won't hurt to change it at the first recommended change. Or, if you want to use Rotella or some of the other good oils, go for that too. "



However, he did warn against using synthetic oil in Gen. 1 or 2 engines (12 and 24 valve) that are already high mileage. He said it cleans gook from around the piston rings and it might (heavy emphasis on MIGHT) begin using oil. If that happens, he said you have a choice: keep adding oil or tear it down and replace the rings.

 

[Pit Bull]

WOW that is a big change between 2nd and 3rd generation engines.

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by Pit Bull

WOW that is a big change between 2nd and 3rd generation engines.

Keep in mind that Rocky Mountain Cummins, while more knowlegeable than a dealership about the Cummins engine, doesn't speak for either a dealership or the factory.



They're in a gray area as far as '03s are concerned. RM Cummins can't even read the codes in an 03 engine. Apparently, the factory made a deal with DC that only Dodge dealerships would have access to common rail engine codes.



Fortunately for us, RM is changing that and expects to have code access in a couple or three months.

 

[97-78 Diesel Crew]

Could not wait to finish my 78 crew cab project to drive the ctd. so bought a 03 3500 to drive as a parts chaser



Could it be that we get different owner's manuals.



On page 62 of my "2003 Ram Truck Diesel Diesel"

Owner's Manual The only cautions are to be sure the engine at normal op temp, no long idles, no engine lugging, proper oil coolant etc and vary throttle position and that engine run in is enhanced Oo. by loaded operating conditions during the first 6000 miles.



To provide the load I use 12 - 100 lb. bags of sand in the short bed.



As far as mileage goes, with a total of 2200 miles my ave is 18. 9 MPG (measured the pre computer way) town and highway with a few quick starts for those puke smokes and dum maxes.



JM2CW

 

[Jeremiah]

Originally posted by 97-78 Diesel Crew

Could not wait to finish my 78 crew cab project to drive the ctd. so bought a 03 3500 to drive as a parts chaser



Could it be that we get different owner's manuals.



On page 62 of my "2003 Ram Truck Diesel Diesel"

Owner's Manual The only cautions are to be sure the engine at normal op temp, no long idles, no engine lugging, proper oil coolant etc and vary throttle position and that engine run in is enhanced Oo. by loaded operating conditions during the first 6000 miles.



To provide the load I use 12 - 100 lb. bags of sand in the short bed.



As far as mileage goes, with a total of 2200 miles my ave is 18. 9 MPG (measured the pre computer way) town and highway with a few quick starts for those puke smokes and dum maxes.



JM2CW

Naw, we have the same manual. It's written in CYA language, i. e. , it says no break-in is required UNLESS you want the truck to operate efficiently, in which case you should break it in by blah-blah-blah-blah.



Can't believe you're driving a 1-ton truck for parts delivery. What kind of parts are you delivering - extra engines for a D-10 dozer?



Your mileage is very good and should improve with more miles and summer fuel.