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Engine code P2459 regen frequency to often

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Took delivery of our 2022 RAM 3500 drw 4x4 Big Horn with 6.7 HO with AISIN trans. on 6/28/2022. After putting over 400 miles on it we hooked up to our 40 ft 5th wheel and headed out to Wyoming in July and back to Michigan, all the while the truck ran great. Only problem we encountered was swarms of grasshoppers which did get all the way into the air filter. Since then we have had this code pop up 4 times. (P2459 regen freq to often) We have had the for and aft sensors replaced (nox sensors I think) which still threw same code so the dealer replaced the diesel particulates filter. After each service call on the truck,we drive about 600 to 800 miles and the same code comes back. We are now waiting for our 4th service on this and we are wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what they did to fix it.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Robert
 
I have never had that particular code on my truck. But I do have a couple of questions?
One, due you run the exhaust brake, how often? 2, if you do what mode do you run the brake in? 3, due you use the two-haul mode? 4, have you replaced the air filter as you have stated that the grasshoppers made it to the air filter? 5, due you use any diesel fuel additives?
 
I have never had that particular code on my truck. But I do have a couple of questions?
One, due you run the exhaust brake, how often? 2, if you do what mode do you run the brake in? 3, due you use the two-haul mode? 4, have you replaced the air filter as you have stated that the grasshoppers made it to the air filter? 5, due you use any diesel fuel additives?

I do run the exhaust break and only when towing. I did run it some when driving in the mountains, but here in Mich. we are pretty flat so only when towing. When it is on it is full on. I always use the tow/haul mode again only when towing. The filter and air box was blown out and cleaned with an air gun and inspected by me and the service mgr and re-inserted( it was the one that came with the truck). I have not put any additives in the fuel.
 
Sounds good so far, nothing wrong from your side I'd say.

Blowing out an airfilter nowadays is a big no-no as it actually perforated the filter media, it's more or less trash that you have sitting in your air box now.
That a RAM Dealer performed this is out of mind. Well they'll pay for it....
An air filter today is almost the same filter grade as a fuel or oil filter - and no one would even think about cleaning these.

Now, from my point of view the only thing you can do right now is - drive it, until the problem accentuate to a point where they really can pin point it.

....and get a new air filter please.
 
Not sure if your dealer is actually following the diagnostic procedure. It sounds like they might be guessing based on the prior repairs. Has the truck used any oil? Have they checked the air inlet tube inside the passenger fender for restrictions? Also, never blow out an air filter with compressed air. It can damage the media and allow dirt to pass. The diagnostic is long, I would ask them to provide you with the results of each of the 16 steps.
 
Not sure if your dealer is actually following the diagnostic procedure. It sounds like they might be guessing based on the prior repairs. Has the truck used any oil? Have they checked the air inlet tube inside the passenger fender for restrictions? Also, never blow out an air filter with compressed air. It can damage the media and allow dirt to pass. The diagnostic is long, I would ask them to provide you with the results of each of the 16 steps.

Yes That was all done when they replaced the DPF. I don't believe they have checked for oil consumption at this point. Which I question as the oil used for the first oil change was a full synthetic 10w-30 which they say is the recommended oil by Stellantis/Chrysler over the 15w-40 that was common for diesel eng. It goes in 10/11/22 for its next service and I will have them replace the air filter.
 
@Robert G Bradstreet, You should be running the EB every time you're driving the truck. Helps with saving the brakes when slowing the beast down. There are 2 setting to the EB. The first push is automatic mode and should be run whenever driving and 2nd push is full on and should be used when towing. This helps with keeping the vanes on the turbo sticking due to carbon build up. I run mine like this and live in the Mid Atlantic by the Chesapeake Bay. Don't need grades to run the EB. And yes to replacing that AF! BIG NO NO to using compressed air to clean the filter! Some of these dealers scare me with what they'll do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Your ‘22 should have a DPF gauge under the vehicle information menu. Watch it and see under what driving style the DPF is filling up, and how often you’re doing a regen. I’ve found the gauge to be pretty sensitive and will show my DPF at 15-20% after even just a couple days driving around town without much load and sufficient EGT’s to conduce a passive regen.

Look at your paperwork and see what sensors were replaced, it shouldn’t have been NOx sensors as those deal with the SCR and not the DPF. The DPF pressure sensors are more likely.

I have never had that particular code on my truck. But I do have a couple of questions?
One, due you run the exhaust brake, how often? 2, if you do what mode do you run the brake in? 3, due you use the two-haul mode? 4, have you replaced the air filter as you have stated that the grasshoppers made it to the air filter? 5, due you use any diesel fuel additives?

Exhaust brake use will have little to no impact on regen frequency, and in reality nether should TH.

On a 13+ truck an active regen occurs every 24 hours of engine run time, at a minimum. It will occur more frequently if the DPF gets full.

If passive regen is sufficient then the DPF stays clean and will not need more frequent regens. Passive regen is occurring whenever the DPF is above 600°F.

In my experience with my ‘18 and ‘22 I’ve never had a regen trigger more frequently than the 24 hour run time, even with some shorter around town trips and commuting without a load on back roads.

It has had very little idle time from me, although the dealer said that they did idle it for 20 to 30 minutes when they were working on it.

What are the idle hours and total hours on the truck? It’s on the EVIC in the vehicle information menu.

Yes That was all done when they replaced the DPF. I don't believe they have checked for oil consumption at this point. Which I question as the oil used for the first oil change was a full synthetic 10w-30 which they say is the recommended oil by Stellantis/Chrysler over the 15w-40 that was common for diesel eng. It goes in 10/11/22 for its next service and I will have them replace the air filter.

Conventional 10w-30 is the normal above 0°F oil for the 19+ CGI 6.7. The all weather (below 0°F) oil is a synthetic 5w-40. There is no upper limit on temp with the 5w-40

15w-40 cannot be used in the 19+ CGI 6.7 as it may cause damage to the hydraulic lifters.


@Robert G Bradstreet, You should be running the EB every time you're driving the truck. Helps with saving the brakes when slowing the beast down. There are 2 setting to the EB. The first push is automatic mode and should be run whenever driving and 2nd push is full on and should be used when towing. This helps with keeping the vanes on the turbo sticking due to carbon build up. I run mine like this and live in the Mid Atlantic by the Chesapeake Bay. Don't need grades to run the EB. And yes to replacing that AF! BIG NO NO to using compressed air to clean the filter! Some of these dealers scare me with what they'll do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

While it is good to run the EB often it’s not needed every time you drive the truck, but run it often.

1st push is full on, 2nd push is automatic.

Both modes are good for driving empty or towing, it’s just preference. I go between both mods all the time. Automatic is an amazing feature when towing in the mountains as it maintains the speed I set with the accelerator or brake pedal, where full on would just run all the time and I don’t always want that.
 
I use tow haul mode and full x brake when I’m loaded and in traffic. Stopping and slowing down are very important then. Nobody wants to be behind a camper etc so they always pull out in front of you . Everyone’s in a hurry around here. I also used it on some pretty steep grades and to slow way down for some very narrow bridges on my recent trip. I works great. Burns a little more fuel .. I pretty much always sense when my truck goes into regen. It suddenly gets hotter and raves up a bit. They don’t last very long .
 
@AH64ID, Got the EB setting wrong. Guess the habit of how I push it is muscle memory and lots going on since family affected in Florida in St James City on Pine Island. I get in, start truck and hit EB. Like it on auto when using cruise also as it really helps maintain speed when going down grades. Hopefully the next appointment at dealer will get it figured out.
 
@Topzide have you noticed a difference in CC using Auto or Full? I have not in either the ‘18 or ‘22, but the ‘22 is more aggressive with EB use in CC but Auto/Full are the same.
 
What I've noticed is when using CC with Auto, speed stays way more consistent the with full on. Haven't ran it with full on since knowing that as soon as your off accelerator pedal the EB kicks in. May try with full on next interstate run. On my 2014 the auto seems to give you a bit of wiggle room before it kicks on. Guess I'll also try both modes with CC and also throw in TH mode as well. More of an excuse to go on a trip and let her run!
 
The only reason the DPF should have been replaced is cracked or extreme face plugging. If cracked it usually indicates overheating. If face plugged it means there is too much soot being generated. Just replacing the DPF does nothing to repair the underlying problem. They have to properly diagnose the problem based on what they found. I will again ask, is it using any significant oil? The oil brand or weight has nothing to do with it as far as diagnosing this problem.
Also EB and TH are nice features, but their use or non use have no bearing on this code.
 
What I've noticed is when using CC with Auto, speed stays way more consistent the with full on. Haven't ran it with full on since knowing that as soon as your off accelerator pedal the EB kicks in. May try with full on next interstate run. On my 2014 the auto seems to give you a bit of wiggle room before it kicks on. Guess I'll also try both modes with CC and also throw in TH mode as well. More of an excuse to go on a trip and let her run!

On the 2018 when using CC both Full and Auto would allow 5 mph above the set speed before either one kicked in, then the braking power was the same on both. The truck itself would never downshift in CC and using the EB so I would have to use ERS.

On the 2022 when using CC both Full and Auto the brake kicks in just above the CC set speed, and the braking power is the same on both (verified with dash gauge and backpressure on my CTS). The truck itself will downshift in CC and using the EB so I don't have to use ERS as often.

Outside of CC when on full the EB is active anytime the throttle is at 0% and the torque converter is locked.

Outside of CC when on Auto the EB is active anytime the throttle is at 0%, the torque converter is locked, and your above the speed at which you let off the throttle/brake or you apply the service brakes.

Outside of CC the '18 and '22 are the same for Auto/Full.

TH is a whole other scenario, but it has no effect on when the EB activates just on how effective the EB is based on increased rpms.
 
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