The whole cruise control exhaust brake and tow haul mode seem to work very well together . I’m very happy with it all and all
The only reason the DPF should have been replaced is cracked or extreme face plugging. If cracked it usually indicates overheating. If face plugged it means there is too much soot being generated. Just replacing the DPF does nothing to repair the underlying problem. They have to properly diagnose the problem based on what they found. I will again ask, is it using any significant oil? The oil brand or weight has nothing to do with it as far as diagnosing this problem.
Also EB and TH are nice features, but their use or non use have no bearing on this code.
Not sure if your dealer is actually following the diagnostic procedure. It sounds like they might be guessing based on the prior repairs. Has the truck used any oil? Have they checked the air inlet tube inside the passenger fender for restrictions? Also, never blow out an air filter with compressed air. It can damage the media and allow dirt to pass. The diagnostic is long, I would ask them to provide you with the results of each of the 16 steps.
Your ‘22 should have a DPF gauge under the vehicle information menu. Watch it and see under what driving style the DPF is filling up, and how often you’re doing a regen. I’ve found the gauge to be pretty sensitive and will show my DPF at 15-20% after even just a couple days driving around town without much load and sufficient EGT’s to conduce a passive regen.
Look at your paperwork and see what sensors were replaced, it shouldn’t have been NOx sensors as those deal with the SCR and not the DPF. The DPF pressure sensors are more likely.
Exhaust brake use will have little to no impact on regen frequency, and in reality nether should TH.
On a 13+ truck an active regen occurs every 24 hours of engine run time, at a minimum. It will occur more frequently if the DPF gets full.
If passive regen is sufficient then the DPF stays clean and will not need more frequent regens. Passive regen is occurring whenever the DPF is above 600°F.
In my experience with my ‘18 and ‘22 I’ve never had a regen trigger more frequently than the 24 hour run time, even with some shorter around town trips and commuting without a load on back roads.
What are the idle hours and total hours on the truck? It’s on the EVIC in the vehicle information menu.
Conventional 10w-30 is the normal above 0°F oil for the 19+ CGI 6.7. The all weather (below 0°F) oil is a synthetic 5w-40. There is no upper limit on temp with the 5w-40
15w-40 cannot be used in the 19+ CGI 6.7 as it may cause damage to the hydraulic lifters.
While it is good to run the EB often it’s not needed every time you drive the truck, but run it often.
1st push is full on, 2nd push is automatic.
Both modes are good for driving empty or towing, it’s just preference. I go between both mods all the time. Automatic is an amazing feature when towing in the mountains as it maintains the speed I set with the accelerator or brake pedal, where full on would just run all the time and I don’t always want that.
More than likely STAR is having them check again is because what the dealer is telling them does not make sense, or STAR is not reading the technician notes. I would ask them to print you the STAR case notes so you can see what each party said.Finally got the truck back after the dealership had it for almost 2 weeks. It does not appear to be using any oil. The last thing they did was #11 on list check the turbo for oil leaking into the exhaust. In so doing they disconnected the batteries there by losing the code in the computer. Therefore I am now back to driving it until the code comes back. I have started a case with Ram customer care, the engineers have been talking with the dealership and having them perform the very things that the dealership has done. Seems to me that if any oil would be coming from the turbo or valves (which they haven't checked yet) that it would be using oil and it is not. So we are back to driving it until the code comes back and we can start this process all over again.
More than likely STAR is having them check again is because what the dealer is telling them does not make sense, or STAR is not reading the technician notes. I would ask them to print you the STAR case notes so you can see what each party said.
My '22 is brand new do no towing yet and with the paint process has pretty low miles.
Here are some shots of what I saw today.
What kind of driving is this happening, any towing when this is doing the regen so often deal, or light daily driving.
Idle Hours: 3
Drive Hours: 8
Total Hours: 11
303 miles driving home
View attachment 135766
320 when I got to the store before I got home it jumped up a little.
View attachment 135767
Hope I can finish off my 500 this week and hook up the deckover and go for a ride.
Going back over your post there was an event with a swarm of Grasshoppers. It throw codes before your stopped or after that, or did you bring it in because of that event?
Did you have any issues prior to that, one thing find useful is retracing my steps and Definitely for any clues or miss steps.
Not much you can really do, messing with it in between the visits is not going to help much unless you think you discover something.
Anything I can share just ask if you need to compare anything how it's set up. Not saying mine is correct but if you think of something.
I am not sure the grasshopper thing was really the problem. We ran through those in North Dakota, and I drove through the rest of N. Dakota, Wisconsin, all the way across the upper peninsula of Michigan to the bridge and then south to almost the Ohio border, without a problem. And without knowing that the grasshoppers had infiltrated the air box. I took the truck in for an oil change and a few days after that is when the first check engine light came on. I took the truck back to the dealership to have the code read and it was the P2459 which is auto regen to often. First thing on the list is check air intake and thats when we found that tech that changed the oil didn't check it as it had grasshopper parts on the bottom of the air box. That was cleaned and everything putAll my Regens have been time based.
Pretty much right on time.
The last one was a little different because of me, I knew the timer had rolled and I was waiting for it to start, but it didn't on that drive. Parked, and next day I had to move the truck like 15 feet it was in the way and it clicked into Auto Regen, it canceled when I went back to park. I figured all was good and kinda thought it was not going to run on the next drive.
Next trip was to drop off my daughter at school, it started Auto Regen on the way to school and I have to get out to do that, so it started for like 5 min and when you go to park it canceled again, like it should.
Jump back in from dropping her off, like less then 5 min stop, it started back up in Auto Regen which I kinda thought was cool it worked it self out, I had a decent ride to work after that, it ran the normal time, it's never very long maybe 20 min.
IDK, it's odd this all started after that grasshopper deal and the air cleaner thing.
Do you recall if you were expecting a Regen on time or it was getting full.
I'm only at 106hr 3225, DPF still only gets to like 15% inbetween, sometimes it uptick to 30% for a very short time.
I forget does it Regen at 50% on the gauge?
I never fixed that clock issue with my 8.4 screen it still resets on every drive the time and date reset on every key start. Makes a great trip timer, and idle warmup time reminder.
If your just daily driving where is your DPF % and do you see it do the Auto Regen all the time?
The truck is supposed to regen every 24 hours of run time, unless the differential sensor is reading to great of back pressure in the DPF. It's my understanding that the gauge will go up as the pressure in that sensor goes up. Once it gets to roughly 50% it will do an automatic regen. If this happens in less than 24 hours of run time twice, it will throw the engine code.That regen sounds normal for short drives. I had a regen take 3 engine hours to complete while hunting last fall since the DOC has to be a certain temp to even allow the extra injection event to occur.
When I DD my truck sometimes the gauge moves and sometimes not. I’ve only ever had my truck regen based on time. I believe the gauge has to get close to 100% to regen based on soot loading, on a properly functioning truck, but I’ve never witnessed that.
What software does your 8.4 have?
The truck is supposed to regen every 24 hours of run time, unless the differential sensor is reading to great of back pressure in the DPF. It's my understanding that the gauge will go up as the pressure in that sensor goes up. Once it gets to roughly 50% it will do an automatic regen. If this happens in less than 24 hours of run time twice, it will throw the engine code.
Mine did after the 2nd time doing a regen to soon, when I mentioned that to them, they reprogrammed the PCM and changed it to set the code after either the 4th or 5th time. They have put pretty close to 1000 miles on my truck, I couldn't tell you what instruments they had hookd up to it and they still can't tell me whats going on with it. One of the driving situations was on the freeway at 70+ mph and it went into a regen at 50 miles from the last one and again 75 miles later.You get a code if too many regens happen, but that shouldn’t be just twice in 24 hours. Certain types of driving will not never get to the 24 hour mark, and that shouldn’t be an issue. Regen every hour, that’s an issue. The 2014 service manual states that P2459 will trip if 3 regens occur with less than the calibrated time between them, but no mention of the calibrated time. Did the 19+ trucks drop to 2, that wouldn’t seem like an improvement.
The dash gauge and actual DPF loading do not appear to be 1:1 (based on what I have seen with my CTS3), which is why I thought the dash gauge had to read higher than 50% in a normally operating system… but we get our first notification at 80% full, so the 50% mark does make sense. The differences is likely that the CTS3 %age takes time into account and the dash gauge does not. Good to know when it’s occurring on yours.
If you could get your hands on a CTS3 you could monitor pressure differential across the DPF and see if they goes up with your dash gauge going up.
They have already replaced that sensor on my truck. They thought maybe there was a bad wire in the harness, so they wired it directly from the PCM to the differential sensor to no avail.A few years back I had the pressure differential sensor on the DPF fail on my 2013, it caused a similar issue to what you are having. The truck was going into Regen almost every time I’d change speed. Then I’d drop out of regen only to happen again next time my speed changed. I was driving on US 13 through the Delmarva on my way toVa beach. A lot of 55 to 35 back to 55 on that road