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Engine Codes P0016 and P0483

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TGVET

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P0340,0341,0483 and now P0016



Posted a few weeks ago that I got three codes and the truck had a few Hiccups. It started on a Sunday and was assumed I got something wet after I sprayed off the truck on Saturday. Drove the truck after washing it Saturday with no issues then again to the same place on Sunday and on the nway home it started.



Someone thought I got water on connectors for the fan clutch and the camshaft position sensor, I can't see how that was possible at all but on the advice of some, I took the connectors apart and degreased them with brake clean as they were oily "on the outside" but not at all wet, I added DeOx to the pins and reconnected everything.



The P0483 went away but the (P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit) and the (P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Performance / Rationality) remained. Come to find out from my mechanic there is a ground test and a voltage test to perform on the camshaft position sensor connector pins. (Getting at that connector is a real Bixxh)



Now I have the (P0483 cooling fan speed) returned and the new code (P0016 Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment/Out-of-Sync) I was told by a mechanic it could be:

1- bad wire connection on pins.

2- loose or broken wire possibly ground wire

3- bad harness which if I recall has all three connectors to it.



Does anyone know of these issues or experienced these possible problems ? Should I attempt to have the connectors serviced by a mechanic that claims to knows of these problems and has the "pin removal tool" or, would I be better off just replacing the harness ?



In most cases, the truck runs fine, every once in a while a minor hiccup. Has anyone ever had to replace the Camshaft Timing sensor ?



New code P0016 really worries me now ?
 
If you have not done it yet, pull all the battery cables and tie the ground cable ends together with booster cables for at least 30 minutes. This will completely discharge and capacitors and force re-initialization on the ECU. Sometimes it just needs a reboot. :D
 
Leave the POSITIVE cable ends off the battery and OPEN ? ONLY connect the negatives together ? OR, connect the POSITIVE cables together too ?
 
Disconnect all the battery cables. Leave the positives open and not touching anything. Tie the grounds together.
 
Will this work on the 6. 7? I would like to try that on my C&C and see if rebooting the ECM will cause the surging in regen to disappear.
 
Will this work on the 6. 7? I would like to try that on my C&C and see if rebooting the ECM will cause the surging in regen to disappear.

You can do it on anything with a computer control. Whether it actually cures the problem is always unknown. Cheap and easy if it works.
 
Damper pulley tight? Crank tone ring tight and looks good? Crank sensor tight?

Worst case, slipped the camshaft gear or damaged the camshiaft tone ring (or whatever it uses).

Probably next step is get it on a scope and see what the signals from cam and crank sensor look like. If they waves are solid and not dropping out then suspect a mis-alignment.
 
I will have to check if all is tight. It seems to run fine most of the time which I hope relates to an electrical issue not mechanical. I wonder if there is any data available on the crank position sensor life expectancy ?
 
I would change out the crankshaft sensor not that expensive and its the same as the cam sensor. I carry a spare as I have had 2 fail.
 
I would change out the crankshaft sensor not that expensive and its the same as the cam sensor. I carry a spare as I have had 2 fail.



Does the CP3 or anything else need to be removed in order to get at the sensor behind the pump ? I was able to disconnect the cable, clean socket (which it didn't need) other than the build up of oil on the outside.



Where to buy the sensor ??



Thanks again.
 
Thanks PD. It's going into Pike Diesel in Burlington tomorrow and get scoped. I sure hope this is "just" and electrical issue and not now a mechanical. I find it interesting the P0340 & P0341 codes cleared since the ECM reboot and now have only a P0016.
 
Needs new ECM, nothing related to washing the truck. Diagnostics indicated loss of signal from the ECM/PCM. Swapped a used ECM from same year but failed to realize the unit needs to be programmed for the security key (P0633) by the dealer which sucks because this truck has never seen the inside of a stealership since it left the lot new. Now I need to try and find one that I can try to trust that won't "F-up" or rip me off with some BS about this or that.



Also, my mechanic installed the new MFS and my delay wipers STILL do not work. I want to load up my truck with 200 lbs of Tanerite and use it for target practice.



P. D. , you are in Bothell yes ? I'm not far from there, any suggestions ?
 
The ECM grounds to the drivers side qtr panel. A spot that's ripe for rust and corrosion. I would clean up those grounds before replacing the ECM.
 
The ECM grounds to the drivers side qtr panel. A spot that's ripe for rust and corrosion. I would clean up those grounds before replacing the ECM.



Are you referring to the leads attached just inside the top edge of the fender area, one behind the battery and the other one closer to the firewall near the hood hinge ? They are still painted factory color and no rust is visible. I have NOT unscrewed them to see if any rust is present between the eye lugs and bolt head or lugs and the sheet metal. I will do that.



The code my mechanic was looking for during the diagnostic trouble shooting should have received a P0337 (Good ECM) and it did not. According to the manual if that code does not come up it states (loss of data signal) and BAD ECM with a new code of P2509 registered along with P0340,0341 & P0483



PD, are you a Dodge mechanic ?



Thanks again.
 
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