Engine died; probably fuel. What's the checklist to follow for troubleshooting?

[SWithrow]

When my pump went out I called NAPA and they only carry the inline not the stock replacment, I could be wrong.

You can get lift pumps at napa,might come in handy for someone broke down on the road.

 

[Crunch]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Popping the fender well liner out definitely looks like the way to go, even though I don't have 4wd clearance. I ordered the replacement pump yesterday, but it didn't go out till this evening and probably won't be here till Monday. Interesting thing about the Geno's pump--the picture on the web site showed a small silver fuel filter with hose barbs on the ends. I asked about it and was told that I need to install it to keep the pump in warranty, and that it should be changed "once a year, or so". I understand the logic behind using the filter, but question what it might do to the flow rate and if changing it once a year is sufficient, since I'm changing the canister filter every 10,000 miles. Has anyone who bought a lift pump from Geno's installed this secondary filter, or did you just skip it?

BTW, that double pump system looks sweet. I've always been a big fan of this kind of redundancy and quick turnaround after a breakdown.

 

[JJPage]

That silver filter is most likely a Fleetguard FF5079 fuel strainer. It should be installed somewhere before the lift pump, I installed mine along the frame rail just behind the transmission cross member, been on for about three years now. It is designed to catch the big chunks, before they plug the pump screen and cause your pump to cavitate and burn up. Good insurance.



If you need more room under your fender well, take the front wheel off .



Jess

 

[jakprince]

well they show it on napa online

 

[KennethCrosby]

I have the same year vehicle as u '03 Dodge, and the problem is your lift pump on your truck. I had the injector problems and it cost me, and then a week later the lift pump went out on me. So replace your lift pump immediately, its much cheaper.

 

[SWithrow]

You are 100% correct, I do apologize, the local store here didn't carry them because they didn't sell a one. They are more than twice ($364. 00) what Geno's ($179. 00)is asking.

well they show it on napa online

 

[mwilson]

The FF5079 strainer is a great idea. The Freightliner FL series had them as factory equipment if the truck was built with a Cummins "B" or "C" engine. Only cost $10. 00 or so.



Only bad thing with it is that a lot of the owners of the Freightliner Trucks don't know it is there and change only the filter on the engine.

 

[ChrisOlson]

hello again

for the 03 guys I am not a cp3 wizzard by no means are the pressures different into the injection pump?? MY lift pump fix was frame rail relocation very close to the tank for the 99
just asking for my knowledge base or maybe I should go back to the 2nd gen forums

have a great day
chris

 

[Crunch]

Thanks for all the help, everybody. The pump arrived today and I just finished installing it. Took me about an hour. Here's my experience:



I used a both a standard L-shaped allen wrench and a ratchet attachment allen wrench for the top two bolts, and the bottom bolt closest to the fender. They are kind of tight to get to, and once they loosen the ratchet can be more of a hindrance than a help. The L-shaped wrenches work, but they are hard to torque and the short end of the L was barely long enough to extend past the curvature of the pump. An allen wrench coming straight out of a screwdriver type handle might be good to get them off and start them, then torque down with the ratchet. The nightmare is the bottom bolt on the inside, closest to the engine. It's hard to reach, it's hard to see and your hand be blocking the view completely once you get a hold of it. In the thread I started when my pump went out last week someone suggested removing the plastic fender liner, and even the wheel if necessary to get access. That might be a good idea of you are on the heavy side. I'm a skinny white boy and didn't want to strip down any more off the truck than I had to, so I just worked from the top and bottom to remove the pump.



Another tricky part of the installation was connecting the quick-release hose fitting to the factory nipple. The new pump hose barb is slightly different from the factory fitting. There is a plastic squeeze fitting on the tank side of the supply line that is tough to get into the new metal hose fitting. I ended up squeezing the fitting and using a folded up Jersey work glove to press the metal hose barb into the squeeze fitting, then attached the rubber hose. The clamps were already in place and I just moved them into position. I also used a set of vise grips to work the hose clamps because the needlenose pliers recommended in the instructions kept slipping off. The 03drm.pdf instructions tell you to connect the hoses and clamps after you get the pump installed. I recommend connecting the hoses to the strainer and putting the clamps on, then connect the hoses to the pump with the clamps on, orient the hoses to match the old unit, then slide the clamps into place. Connect the tank side of the new hose to the barb (already attached to the supply line quick release fitting coming off the tank) last.



The Geno's instructions also call for disconnecting the negative battery cables. I skipped that part, though it is probably a good idea since the connection comes off the ECM.



All in all, an easy job though tight working conditions and access will be your biggest obstacles.



Again, thanks for all the help. I love this place.