Engine dies

[rdlb]

I had a A618/47RE transmission rebuilt at 135000 miles. CR-70X3 custom built Torque converter, trans-go shift kit and Alto red line clutches with kolene steels, 700R4. I replaced the TPS with a BD aftermarket and also the BD APPS Noise Isolator from Geno's Garage, (they are installed correctly). Repositioned the Negative battery cable from off of the alternator. The truck is garaged, the ambient temperature is around 75F. We start the truck back out of the drive way and then put it into drive. The engine dies, we restart the engine and it will not die and off we go. This started the we had the trans rebuilt, the rebuilder could not find any issues after he personally drove it for several days, he did flushed the trans at 11000 miles on the rebuild. Perhaps I am missing something?

 

[BoeingDiesel]

First thing that comes to mind is fuel starvation but then that doesn't really fit if the truck runs fine after that. What type of lift pump are you using and do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I presume that there are no codes since you didn't list any and you didn't mention an illuminated CEL. Negative wire off the alternator? Guessing you meant rerouted the charge wire unless you have a external voltage reg' that has to be grounded. It's a matter of elimination at this point and I highly recommend you post a truck signature listing any mods', accessories etc. that you have on your truck. There are a lot of very savvy members on the TDR and the more info you provide the better. By the way...Welcome to the TDR!

 

[rdlb]

First thing that comes to mind is fuel starvation but then that doesn't really fit if the truck runs fine after that. What type of lift pump are you using and do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I presume that there are no codes since you didn't list any and you didn't mention an illuminated CEL. Negative wire off the alternator? Guessing you meant rerouted the charge wire unless you have a external voltage reg' that has to be grounded. It's a matter of elimination at this point and I highly recommend you post a truck signature listing any mods', accessories etc. that you have on your truck. There are a lot of very savvy members on the TDR and the more info you provide the better. By the way...Welcome to the TDR!

FASS 20+psi to the injector pump, new fuel filter, oil and filter, air filter. Valve lash adjusted properly. OBD2 scan tool did not pull any codes. Everything else is in the first post.

 

[rdlb]

apparently Geno's garage tech had a similar problem, it is the torque converter. I will have to live with it.

 

[fest3er]

Are you fully stopped when you shift?

Shift into neutral, wait a bit, then shift into forward. *Maybe* the drivetrain is winding up a bit and and the sudden 'stop' after unwinding after shifting to forward is faster than the idle controller can react. Or give it a one or two hundred RPM extra when you shift; just a dab'll do ya.

 

[Joe Mc]

rd, welcome to the TDR!
I had my trans DTT'ed about 15 years back (around 129k, now has well over 100k since then). I want to share some oddities that started happening a few years back in an effort to possibly help or at least share. This only happens when the weather starts to turn cold, about 45* or less, and whether I plug in at night or not: Start up let it run for a minute or two, then back out of the driveway (I always purposely go from any forward to reverse or vice/versa gear into neutral for a second) I slowly head down the street about 100yds to the stop and then down the road (¼ mile) to get coffee - I leave it run while inside. As I head down for coffee the trans shifts into 2nd - now here's where the oddities begin: sometimes it'll seem as it shifts right into high gear/locked converter and will chug like a standard trans that's in too high of a gear for the speed and other times it doesn't seem like it shifts to 3rd but more like the converter locks and then it'll shift right into 3rd and then right into high. When I say "right into" I mean like a half a second. What I've learned to do is, while the trans is still in low get as much speed as I can until it shifts, staying in the throttle, and when it shifts back out a little then it'll shift into whatever it's doing and I back out letting it coast down the road. If, as I approach the turn in for coffee, I forget to pop in neutral as I turn in it'll let me know by the chugging. Once it runs for a bit (however long it takes me to get coffee) it shifts fine. I've installed new transducer, solenoid and even internal (trans) wiring and it still does this. But "only when it's colder out"??? Oh forgot to mention, when it starts chugging it for sure seems like something will break badly if I don't shift in to neutral... Like you, I've learned to live with this.

 

[rdlb]

I love my better half of 48 years listening to this Senior Field Service Material Handling Technician. She lets it idle for about five minutes before moving and has no problems. The trans has only about 15000 miles since the reman. At 11000 I had to take it back as it and trash in some of the solenoid areas, they flushed everything and so far it shifts great. I am looking now to install a spin on lube filter and replace the check valve. My reasoning is: if there is a filter before the valve no trash should get there and I would replace the check valve at every service. Over kill? We are not buying another truck.

 

[Joe Mc]

I am looking now to install a spin on lube filter and replace the check valve. My reasoning is: if there is a filter before the valve no trash should get there and I would replace the check valve at every service. Over kill? We are not buying another truck.

I hear you on "Not buying another truck" and agree. Do tell on the "Spin-on Filter". How to install, where, what type, where could others get items needed?

 

[DavidC]

I put one on my 99 a few years ago
https://www.dieselperformance.com/s...filter-kit-dodge-1994-2007-47rh-47re-48re-930
#ad

 

[DavidC]

With that kit you must be very careful when it comes to replacing the rear fitting in the trans as they used a red thread locker sealant from the factory. I used a wrench when it probably should have been a socket to keep the torsional flex to a minimum. Anyway I cracked the case using a wrench . A trip to see Fred Swanson was the next trip for a new to me case. Maybe use a heatgun to help break it loose would be a good idea.

 

[Joe Mc]

Dave, "A NEW CASE" OMG!!! I was hunting a trans leak and found the brass fitting was cracked at the trans. Had no idea it was cracked until I placed a wrench on it to "hold" the fitting while I placed a line wrench on the line nut, before I could even apply any force at all the whole sea-bang let go. I was fortunate and was able to get a new fitting from Dodge, the rest of the repair went as follows: remove valve body, cut drill bit short enough so I could drill out the remnants of the original fitting, tap the hole, blow out shavings, clean, clean, clean the hole and thread in new fitting with "Leak-Lok" on the threads. Whew, it worked. Of course all this a few days before I was to haul my daughter, her car on 2 axel car carrier, her car and bed of truck loaded from Philly area to Seattle area.

 

[DavidC]

Yeah Joe, I was pretty bummed when that happened and was questioning why I was putting an auxillary filter on anyway. Luckily Jeff had a case as they were far and few between in my searching. I still wonder if something as simple as a heat gun would have kept the big problem from happening

 

[Joe Mc]

I don't know if a heat gun would have helped, couldn't have hurt to try, but I think the two dissimilar materials (brass & aluminum) threaded and "with" thread locker are a disaster waiting to happen. Maybe a torch would have helped, but seems like that could have wreaked other unwanted havoc. And we move on, Happy new year all.