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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) engine keeps runing

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I turned the key off last night and the engine kept going.

Would it be the fuel shut off solenoid. how can i turn if off if the key dosn't work, i need to use it tomorrow,any help would be appreciated. :confused:
 
it may be a rotted rubber boot on the solenoid holding the rack up, or something may need lube, worst case on the solenoid you can replace it with a ziptie or wire in a pinch to get home or whatever, some people eliminate it all together and use a choke cable
 
When mine used to do that, I just sprayed the rod down with wd-40 and moved it up and down a few times.

All you have to do to turn it off is pull the rod down.



(If the starter stays engaged because of worn contacts the solenoid will stay engaged but that usuall happens right after you start it. )
 
AGSmith,the rod is under neath the fuel shutoff solenoid on the driver's side of engine. The fuel shut off solenoid is cylinder shape with a black cover on the bottom side covering the spring, the rod goes up the middle of the spring.
 
Mine done that a number of years ago, the bolts holding the solenoid to the mounting plate had worked loose, and the cylinder was up out of adjustment, (after a fuel plate was installed, and not double checked) and the engine would not shut off. Now I carry a few extra bolts that size.
 
Thank's everyone,great advise. I'll give it a go, i've been real busy like a one legged man in an *** kicking contest.
 
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Okay my truck did this same thing today. Started it went to town everything okay. Got back out to truck and started and noticed a different higher pitched sound as well did not sound like starter grinding stuck on type noise, could be starter still spinning type of noise. I turned the key off and it kept running. I popped the hood and to me it sounded like the noise was comig from turbo side but not the turbo itself. As soon as the high pitch sound stopped I turned the key off and truck stopped. I tried to start and it wouldn't start the first couple of tries, would start and immediately die like it was starving for fuel. Then it started and ran fine. So should I do both the starter contacts and the fuel shutoff solenoid or just the starter contacts?
 
I dont know what position it is in and I don't want to try to start it again. I've heard bad things about starters and other things burning up if it is the starter contacts. Which I'm pretty sure it is. So I ordered the starter contact kit from Genos and the diode and I'll go from there.
 
jpogue,does sound like your starter solenoid contacts are worn (usually the battery one). When one wears out more then the other it causes the plunger to get cock-eyed causing juice to back feed to the shut off solenoid.



This happend to me a couple times, it finally wouldn't start. But reading an old basic auto book it suggested to put it in hight gear and push the clutch in and out(manual trans). Of course this won't work for you but Joe G. s' solution was get under the truck and beat on the starter with a metal hammer( auto trans).
 
Thanks MM,I'll pass on the hammer though. That was the fix on our old ford tractors at work. I talked to my buddy BPine as well about this and he said the same thing about the starter contacts. So I'll get the starter out and ready for the new parts. Oh and thanks bigpapa for posting the diagram.
 
If it hasn't been removed before be prepared to lose patience with the top bolt.



You can go over the top with enough extensions and the 12 point socket to use a ratchet, to get that extra leverage. It worked for me.

There is also a multi fit socket on the market, other than the 12 point. Check it out @ Harbor tools.
 
Oh boy I'll squirt some blaster on it today and take it off tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up. I take it that replacing the plunger and contacts is the easy part.
 
Something else to look at is the fuel shutoff relay. On my 97 the relay was taped in the harness on the drivers side against the firewall. My engine wouldn't shut off so I tapped both of the relays and it finally shutoff. There are 2 identical relays mounted together and I don't remember which is which. From the dealer the relay is costly, but I bought my replacement from the same place starter contacts were purchased, Larry something. Sorry I don't have details, but when I sold the 97 put all notes,etc. on a CD and gave it to the buyer then deleted from my computer.



The relay sticking is a problem and several owners carried a spare.
 
jpogue, a 10mm 12 pt box end is great for tighting the top bolt from behind/side of starter.

Also start with top bolt when taking it off. You can hold the starter up easier when taking off the bottom bolts. ( I have took mine off 3 times in 15 years. My mechanic took it off the last time and replaced it a NAPA starter. It lasted 15 1/2 years. )
 
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