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Engine misses upon acceleration ??

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Psychotty compatiblity dilema

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Have you checked your valves? I set the airgap on mine last weekend and was surprised that my intermittant percieved engine miss is all but gone. It also seems to run better with a new fuel filter. Just a thought...

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98 2500 CC 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1
 
No I have not done the valves yet. I do the fuel filter every 10k miles though, and it is just about due. I want to run the tank low because I want to get the screen too. The dealer told me they did it during one of the fuel sender episodes, but I do not believe them.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 10-18-2000). ]
 
patriot,unless you think you got a realy bad tank of fuel I won't mess with the tank filter. It is far easier to cut your old main filter open after you replace it and see what's up. The tank filter isn't much finer than window screen and the fuel sloshing in the tank tends to keep it clean. I've been there and done that,just want to save you some needless work.
Bill
 
Sorry if I was unclear on this. I meant the screen by the lift pump.
Mine is a 98, so I have the cannister type filter. No need to cut it up, it comes out like that.
Thanks for the tip anyway. I all but forgot about the one in the tank. #ad

If you've ever had a turbo line blow off, it was sort of like that, except when the turbo line blew off, it would just flat out STOP when you stepped on the "go" petal.
With this problem, it goes, but misses and smokes.
When my turbo line blew off,I tightened the p1$$ out of them. (passing a "power choke, had to lay under the truck in the pouring rain to fix it... you know the story..... extremely embarassing. ) I'll take a look at them anyway to be sure they didnt work their way loose just to be safe.
I get my fuel from a private source. Same fuel for the last 4 or 5 fill ups. Pulled a sample, and it "looked" good. I do use conditioner.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 10-18-2000). ]
 
Hi again all. This morning I started the truck (started normally) and when I started off, I had a miss. It smoked quite a bit too. It was about 65 out this morning, so temperature cant be it, though it acts like a "cold" diesel. I'm not sure if the grid kicked on, it usually dont above 60.
I THINK this happened once or twice before, but I thought I was low on fuel, so I discounted it as this.
Any ideas or suggestions? A fuel line leak is what I'm thinking, but any possibilities are welcome.
I'm out of warranty (3/36) but would this be covered under the drivetrain warranty?
Thanks in advance.


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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 55,000 Mi as of 8/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
 
Drivetrain engine warrenty should cover it. My '95 has done it if I leave it parked for a week or more,I figured it was fuel bleeding back into the tank being displaced with air. Runs fine if I drive it daily.
 
Why not just switch over to Amsoil? The Microbes embedded in the secret formula actually kick your crankshaft and help ease engine wear and also fix any problems from the inside, so there's no need for a mechanic. Ha Ha; actually, in all frankness, your problem can be Water in Fuel--but you can see it if you drain your filter. Aerated fuel is also a possibility--Check the return line for corroded rubber and sometimes the telltale sign of the smell of hot diesel fuel. The steel return line coming out of the injection pump likes to rupture at the welds where the brackets are welded on. Lastly, TIMING. Timing is so precise on a diesel engine and the B series have a history of **** poor timing set at the factory because if it runs within their parameters, it's out the door and ready to install. Timing CAN slip and cause what you feel as missing. White smoke is a telltale sign and is very common on a cold engine in neutral as you bring the revs up over 2000. The harder you rev it, the more smoke will come. Be careful to use kid gloves when doing this on a cold engine. We're not staging a race car here.

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520 Rear Wheel H. P. and 800+ ft/lbs Torque = 15. 5 sec @ 97 mph with the rear wheels spinning in 5th gear going through the traps in the quarter mile. No slicks here, pal, no fancy auto transmission, just the truck in full street trim, 7400 lbs. of Auto Wurks Diesel/BD Performance raging, fire-breathing DIESEL POWER
 
Jeff, I drive it every day. Does it for the first 1/2 mile or so, then it's OK.
I got under it yesterday looking for fuel line leaks. Not a one. I did the fuel filter, and the strainer in the fuel heater, since I never got to this one yet.
Fuel filter was suprisingly dirty. Guess I'll have to change suppliers. #ad

The screen wasnt too bad (went flying across the driveway when I lost grip of it, so it may have lost some of it's crud)
The fuel filter IS doing it's job. I did feel a noticeable difference.
However the miss is still there, all though very slight now.
I have two possibilities now:
1 Adjust valves. (Never done it )
2 Timing.
No make that three. Plugged cat.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Keep em coming, I dont have this totally figured out yet. #ad



[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 10-20-2000). ]
 
BTT
Any ideas left on this? I adjusted my valves, lost the cat, and replaced fuel filters.
It's more noticable in the cold weather, but also happens when it's warm out.
I cant be the only guy this is happening to, can I?
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
 
Thanks my6eats8's. I'm almost sorry I asked.
Since I'm not BOMBED I guess it can be warrantied.
Any other ideas? I hope he's wrong.
Eric
 
Have you had the injection timing verified yet? That's about the only thing you haven't yet done as far as I can read. And they DO slip from the factory due to an improper and revised torque spec.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
*******************************************************************************
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.
 
No Chris, I havent. I'm trying to leave no stone unturned before I do this.
Does your shop do "static" timing?
I am also most likely going the diamond B injectors, and I dont want to have to re time after the installation.
Kind of a screwed up situation. I want to fix it before any mods, but I dont want to go the $$$ 2X for the timing.
Decisions decisions.....
As the Cummins turns. #ad

Eric
 
Patriot,

my 96 with 118K has a similar 'miss' when cold. And mine clears up in about the same time as yours. It also pulls 25 psi of boost whne warm so I don't think it's a bent push rod. I have not had timing checked but the valve lash has never changed significantly on either of my two trucks over the last 10 years and 300K miles.

Havn't replaced the fuel filter and still have the original rubber fuel lines that 'crack' but mine appear okay. Starts right up in the morning.

My miss occurs between 1300-1500 and increased white smoke indicating unburnt fuel.

Then it clears up and the truck runs strong.
It did not due this last year during colder weather.

Redram.

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We use the dynamic method to check the timing with a computer with the engine running. It leaves no items for speculation as the static method does with each mark on the dial gauge measuring a certain amount of degrees where you have to estimate and you never really know where you are. Once we set the timing, we check it once again to verify beyond the shadow of a doubt that the timing is exactly where we want it. I would get your truck's injection timing set to 15. 5 degrees prior to doing the nozzles as you need to eliminate the "miss" variable from the equation before you move on with performance. We set up the trucks with the Diamond 370 nozzles to 15. 5 degrees, so that is even a better reason to do the timing before the install. I have seen a truck as bad as 1 degree BTDC with its injection timing and you would not believe how well the truck ran once it warmed up. I would speculate that yours (as was mine) is timed somewhere between 4-7 degrees BTDC from the factory. Doing the job right the first time is certainly a priority, especially when the certainty that the engine will run after it is done hangs in the balance.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
*******************************************************************************
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.
 
What exactly does the "phase 3" setup include? Which nozzles? Delivery valves? How much fuel is the P7100 delivering? Level of boost? Or does the job solely rest upon modifying the Injection Pump only? Since I never dealt with the "Doc", I am unaware of his methods.

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
*******************************************************************************
Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.
 
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