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Engine Oil Preference

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Shell Rotella Elc

PacBrake install.... take note.....

I sold a f-150 302 with 330,000 miles on it. Mobil 1 mostly. Changed it when I felt like it and ran the snot out of it. Still running strong and clean when I sold it.



Now I run Rosmella and will change to a synthetic when I get a bypass filter system and go to extended intervals. Waiting until 100k then I'll know she's broken in properly.



I plan on putting 500k on this truck-at least. :cool:
 
Originally posted by rbattelle

Valvoline Premium Blue. Comes in a box plastered with the Cummins logo!:)



I do the same and change at 7500 and had an oil analysis done which said all was fine at 20,000 mile mark. I use factory oil filters from Geno's
 
Obviously a controversial subject; especially if you suggest brand names. As an oil man for 20 years - the following might be helpful.

A few points- 1-Using a top quality engine oil is the cheapest insurance you can have. If it protects that one time things get too hot, etc. it's worth it's weight in cummins engines. 2- Use an oil rated for Diesel engines, ie. CG-4 or the newest rating (lower soot deposits) CI-4. 3- There are many misconceptions about synthetic engine oils. The truth is there are only 2 advantages to using synthetics (but their biggies). Synthetics have more thermal stability (work better if they get over 200 degreesF. ) and they last longer.

Best of the best synthetics are (in my humble opinion) Amsoil, Royal Purple and Synergyn Racing Oil and Devac I, if you can find it. All these are excellent and have enough additives to last as long as the oil itself. That being said, there are two ways to skin this cat! You can go with the cheapest oil you can find (must be at least CG-4 rated) and I would recommend changing oil & filter @ 3,000 miles if towing and 5,000 miles if not. This will work, as long as no problems cause oil to exceed 200-250 degrees F.

The advantages of higher quality oils mentioned above are 4: 1-Extended oil Changes; 7,500 miles if towing and 10,000 if not. 2- Protection if high temp occur. 3- Better protection for turbos, 4-Ability for the adventurous to go with a 5w-30 wt oil and get better cooling, due to more rapid flow and better mileage due to less drag. I picked up 1 mpg with Synergyn's 3-30 wt Racing Oil, switching from 15w-40. You must have highest quality oils to maintain protection when going to one of the 30 wts.

Testing and Oil analysis I have done for customers has shown me the better non synthetics diesel oils (in my area) are Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo 400 and Shells Rotella T. But at 7500 to 10,000 mile oil changes, the top synthetic oils are cost effective and offer much better protection, especially for turbo chargers.

Hope this helps you figure what you want to do?

Rowland
 
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Nice reply Rowland;

It's good to hear from one who speaks from fact rather than "What works for me should be done by everyone" !! It is those extreme situations (temps. timing, loads, driving & maintenance habits, etc. ) which will tend to ruin the "What works for me" theory !! Thanks for the input. .

Dick S.
 
Mobil Delvac 1 5W40

As my pick-up approaches 30,000 mile, using Delo 400 15W40, I've made the decision to go with a synthetic oil. I don't have any problem with a dino oil and frequent changes. Just looking at the oil, using a 5000 mile change, it seemed like it was doing the job.

We recently purchased a larger (read that heavier) travel trailer and are now close to max GVWR. I know the Cummins can pull this load but the rig needs to last me about 8 to 10 years. I fiqure the synthetic oil will give me a little piece of mind as we travel the country (mostly western US) and extend oil drains while on the road.

The warrenty will probably run out in another two years so the better I treat the engine now the longer it should go. After reading almost every oil related topic, on the TDR and elswhere, I've come to the conclusion that Mobil Delvac 1 is the best diesel rated oil commonly available. Nothing against Red Line, Amsoil and the others... I'm sure they're top grade oils. It's just that I can find the Mobil or Cat DEO (they're the same) in almost any medium sized town in the US. It has a proven track record and is recommended by every diesel OEM out there... Cummins, Caterpillar, Mack, etc. .

Everyone to his or her own decision when it comes to oil. Given my situation with a heavy load, lots of travel and not wanting to change oil every month and a half it's synthetics from here on.



Mike
 
Testing and Oil analysis I have done for customers has shown me the better non synthetics diesel oils out there today are Chevron Delo 400 and Shells Rotella T



And of the two ,Delo beats Rotella. I ran Rotella to 195k miles,changing @5k mile intervals and testing at 10k mile intervals. Switched to Delo 400 and all my wear metals dropped by about 20%... ... Nothing to sneeze at... . I'm stcking with Delo. :p
 
D1 repeatedly gets outsdanding oil analyses, even over extended drains. As long as you don't mind spending a few extra dollars for your baby, D1 is king!!!!!:cool: :D
 
Tejas this ought to get them going..... this if you just use rotella of other dino oils you will be fine. besides how long do you plan on keeping the truck??? by wasting money on syns all your doing is investing for the guy who is going to buy your truck used! any dino oil will get you to 250,000 no problem! dino cheap i paid $34 for a 5gall pail of rosmella. syn cost $7 a quart! last TDR mag a guy using rotella reached 750,000 changing every 4000 or so. no by pass. what more proof do you need? This is my plan syns in rear end, transfer case, transmission, delo 400 every 11500(until warranty expires) regular filter every 4000 w/ by pass fs2500 once a year maybe twice.



if i drive 23000 per year my oil costs for the engine will be:



1. $55 for oil(based on 13. 5 gallons extra for by-pass)

2. $70 for fleetgaurd high flow filters

3. $44 for twice a year



$170 per year and at this intervals i dont void my warranty and i gurantee i will not have an oil failure in the engine!



take into consideration i live in a warm climate so i dont care about pour points.



What do you guys think about that $170 per year i am saving the inviro, money and some hassle and i will still get to 350000K and not have to worry about trying to order oil etc. etc.



Tejas i just lit the fuse hold you key board

;)
 
Synthetic every 12k or so. To me thats easy! Also the piece of mind that it pours better low temp,protects better high temp etc and its delivered to my door!(AMSOIL)with bypass systems etc can go lots more miles then 12k!:-{}
 
How many people have ruined, or prematurely worn out their motor by using standard Delo, or Rosmella??



None. Period.



So, from that logic, any deviation from the standard, is not gaining them much at all, except risk. Which is low with any diesel approved, or iso9001 product.



Its like, pepsi, or coke. big deal.



But lets go ahead and keep arguing. its good for the circulation (no pun intended).



Think Im gonna go outside and claybar the fenders. Want to be sure my PURE WHITE paint continues to outshine all those other INFERIOR colors :D :D
 
Originally posted by CATCRACKER





SYN's are better for your motor i will clarify that. it has been proven yet i still use dino. if i could pick amsoil off of the shelf at wally world i might use it until then its dino and convience for me. [/B]



That's a hell of a reason to choose an oil - because you can get it at Wally World!



Now that's an educated informed decision!



Sorry - but if you find a better widget and the only reason not to use it is you have to plan ahead (think and be responsible) so that UPS / FedEx can deliver it to your front door - that is just being lazy or crazy!Oo.
 
As "I' have stated before. I don't like to shop in stores and almost REFUSE to use WALLY WORLD for anything for several reasons. I LOVE being able to order AMSOIL products(and lots of others)and having the big BROWN truck with the FRIENDLY driver leave them on my doorstep. :D
 
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