Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine out @ 70k- what else?

[Rockcrawler]

Will be getting a new shortblock under warranty (8" crack in block)- what else would be a wise investment at this time??



Pilot bearing?- which one to use?



New clutch disc and plate?- old one has been fine, never tow over 20k gross, mostly 14 k gross now.



How long do the waterpumps last?

Anything else?

 

[DEZLPWR]

Where exactly on the block was the crack? I thought the '01's weren't prone to cracking like the earlier 24v blocks...

 

[Rockcrawler]

normal place

Below the ex man, pass side, towards the back of the engine. Mine was built in early 00 as an 01.

 

[Chipstien]

Yikes... . should I be worried about this. :{

 

[DEZLPWR]

Early '00... . I guess that explains it.

 

[GDouglas]

What casting # does your cracked block have? Everyone here has talked about the dreaded #53 casting number found just above the oil pan rail at the front left side of the engine. It would be interesting to find out which one you have. The later year blocks usually have a 54 or no markings at all in that area and aren't supposed to be as prone to cracking.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Rockcrawler

never tow over 20k gross, mostly 14 k gross now.

If gross means GCVW then it shouldn't have crack. If gross means just the weight of towed trailer than this contributes to the block cracking. Per past posts on the TDR, unless you are beating your truck to death towing loads over the GCVW rating on a normal basis than you don't need to worry about your block cracking. Worry instead about world hunger You have a much better chance of retiring young than your block cracking :-laf

 

[Pit Bull]

My engine was manufactured in October of 1999. It has no casting marks. If you do a search for past threads on this topic I think you will find that this does not mean much. The majority of blocks that cracked are in Bus applications where they were overloaded and torqued to death.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I can't find a casting number on mine, but there is a fat wiring harness routed right at the left front (I assume driver's side??) that may be covering it.



My engine DOB is Jan 21, 2000.



Vaughn

 

[Cowboy Medic]

My dad had an entire engine replacement done on his 92 with a crack in the block similar to what you are talking about. It would not make me worry one bit about all the other engines they make. Just like any product a flaw can happen or an unusual sequence of events can lead to a failure that would not normally happen. Looking at the vast majority of enginges that run for hundreds of thousands of miles without much of a problem, you would have to say that it is really not too big of a deal. Especially since it happened while still under warranty. Hope it gets done right and you are back out cruising soon!

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Vaughn MacKenzie

I can't find a casting number on mine, but there is a fat wiring harness routed right at the left front (I assume driver's side??) that may be covering it.



My engine DOB is Jan 21, 2000.



Vaughn

Vaughn, yours is not marked either. It should be right below the VP44 and above the harness. Some just don't have a casting number. Understand that these blocks are made different places That does not mean that ours are not made the same exact way. Matter of fact I would bet ours also has the thinner wall where the cracks/leaks appear. I just don't think it is anything to worry about unless your overloading your truck on a regular basis. Even in bus applications only a few have cracked.

 

[Rockcrawler]

Clearing things up

When I say 20k I mean the whole deal, on the scales, what it's rated for. I was 150 lbs over once, the heaviest I've ever been.



Truck has about 15 k on it towing (gross) at 18. 5-20k, mostly across route 40 going west so not too many killer hills. EGT has never been an issue with this rig so it's not like I'm hard on it.



I have not found the casting number but there is an ID sticker near the front of the valve cover that starts with "53".



I spoke with the Cummins shop in Tulsa- they told me it's random and very small percentage wise. I asked if there was any particular mode of operation that was related, towing, hills, certain applications etc- he said no- very random. Assured me that the replacement shortblock is thicker in that area.



He did say that typically a Cummins warranty would just replace the block itself. Chrysler always goes with a new shortblock- not reman.



Looks like I'll put a new clutch in while there and go for another 100k+ miles. Only 68. 5 on it now.

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: Clearing things up

Originally posted by Rockcrawler



I spoke with the Cummins shop in Tulsa- they told me it's random and very small percentage wise.

.

Hey Rockcrawler why can't it ever be a winning Lottery ticket Sorry to here about this hassle, please keep us posted and let us know how they end up treating you. How did you notice it?

 

[Rockcrawler]

So far so good!

Went to the dealer on Friday- they have a diesel tech who's supposed to be one of the best in the area- referred by other wrenches- not the dealer.



A new shortblock has been blessed under warr. - they said that officially it will be a cummins re-man but every one they've ever seen appears to be new one- as long as Cummins does the work I don't care. They could not verify that it will be a 54 series or newer though the local cummins dealer assured me it would. The block is coming from Mich and should be here mid wk. I'll be looking at it before I hand them my keys.



The labor rate is $70 which caught me off guard for a midwest shop. They want to charge me two extra hours labor- get this- for the "added work" of my EGT Pyro in the ex manifold, my BHAF with Mallory type mt and my Geno's fuel pressure gage plumbed into the banjo. I confirmed that I would put the stock air filter back on and install two pipe plugs to save myself $140.



They did not comment on the amsoil dual bypass- I'll give them 2 new filters from my stock, hopefully they won't stoop to charging me for the extra quart of dino oil.



He did comment about my "puck" being removed already but said not to worry as they had it covered under warranty. I did not reply to that but just moved the conversation along regarding the air filter and pipe plug work I would do.



Looks like I'm going to replace the clutch, I'm going to supply- use a 12 valver which is a slight upgrade and fine for my needs- they already agreed to not charge me as they're doing the labor anyway.



Will advise as it progresses!

 

[Rockcrawler]

Update!

Well, I got my truck back today after 3 wks. The first set back came when they uncrated the shortblock and they found damage on top of one of the pistons- ordered a second shortblock.



It's in now, got the truck an hour ago, 56 series block. I had them put a new clutch in, after reading the issue 38 TDR article I looked my stocker over carefully- check out that thread for some good info. I went with a 12V stock clutch as recommended by a couple shops who are well known in our TDR community.



Now I need to reinstall the fuel p gage, egt probe etc.

 

[Pit Bull]

Glad to hear everything worked out for you. Now you can start the breakin process. Bet it's almost like having a new truck