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engine problem

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running too hot, running too cold!

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hello, does anyyone know what would cause this to happin, it had a new oil seal put in about 4 months ago , and now it need more than that i beleave, it looks to me that the ole crank decided to do a little wobbling, the thing is i just bought this thing about 40 days ago. its a 93 3/4 ton 4+4 club cab long bed the cummins has 181. 000 on it what other years of cummins would fit . thanks . rodney
 
Welcome to the TDR.



Now for the bad news. Looks like your crankshaft thrust washer has died on you.



I didn't know it would let the crank walk that far. :(
 
I agree with Phillip on both counts... . hello and thrust bearing. It keeps the crank from walking foward and backward during acceleration and decelleration. I would guess that you have some large chunks in the oil pan. In my opinion the block is ok.





Dave
 
Any year of Cummins will fit. The mechanical P-pump or VE pumped engines probly will be easier to swap in. What can be done to fix this problem?
 
I also agree, Hello and the reason the seal was replaced was probably because of the excessive endplay causing it to leak. When the seal was replaced they were unaware of the excess endplay but it was probably already there.



Edit to add, unless the thrust surfaces on the crank or block are screwed up I would think that a new set of bearings should set you right up and be less expensive than a different engine.





Caleb
 
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thanks for the info, i talked to the dealer and they siad that i need a new crank and it was going to cost around 4500. 00 to fix it, so im not for sure what i am going to do
 
Not sure I'd believe the "You need a new crank" diagnosis from the first person that looks at it.



Many of the OTD truck engine run 1,000,000 and then only need new bearings installed. Done with the engine in the truck.



Can our engine have new bearing rolled into it with out pulling the crank? I assume the thrust bearing is in two pieces like most others.



GL
 
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Can our engine have new bearing rolled into it with out pulling the crank

I believe I read in here a while back that somebody did this... Monte perhaps???



I told this story before. . but I had an 81 VW diesel that wore the thrust bearing so bad the crank had enough play that the counterweights were hitting the bearing caps :eek: Crankshaft was totally toast and the bores were oblong fore and aft as a result. This was at "only" 200 K miles.



If it were me I'd inspect before I jumped to a conclusion... . esp if diagnosed by a dealer.
 
If you can get the oil pan off changing the bearing is pretty much straight forward. Yes it is 2 piece. Changing the crank if needed in the truck would be downright difficult. If you can get the pan off it would be worth a look. A dial indicator on the end of the crank and a prybar would give you the end play results.



Dave
 
thanks guys does anybody know of a good deisel man around central indiana, i am going to call and get more info. right now they are going to put in a new and seal for now
 
"right now they are going to put in a new and seal for now"



A new seal will NOT cure your problem. Further more, your will do serious damage to continue running this engine. You need to dump your dealer and his mechanic. If your engine has zero blowby (an indication of the overall condition), you have a chance to just repair the bottom end. It won't be easy but you can roll in a new bearing or bearing set if desired. The thrust washer is made on the side of one of the main bearings. Sounds like your dealer has no one qualified to do such a thing. I have read of fwd owners that swap ends with the oil pan so I am thinking that you can get the pan off and get to the bearings. This would be an almost impossible chore with a two wheel drive truck. You may or may not need a crank, only inspection will determine this. Don't get sucked into a dealer engine. You can buy a complete truck for less than the above number. I bought a beater with a good engine for less than 2k dollars.



James
 
What shop gave you that type of price without even inspecting the engine?



I am local. Lets drop the pan.



Did you buy that truck in Peru from a guy that runs a local repair shop?
 
The thrust bearing is part of the number 6 set. It cannot be fixed with a new rear main seal. If you want to save what you have, I would't run it anymore until you can get it apart. You might be able to get the pan off and roll out what is left of the number 6. Checking your end play now is pointless you know its not in spec. The bearing takes the axiel load of the crank itself, as well as the torsional load from the piston. It looks like an L shape looking at it from the side. Half of the L is in the main cap and the other leg presses on the block. It will make more sense when you get into it. You can't get into anymore trouble than you have already, by taking it apart.

The dealer is looking for the quick fix for you, and money in his pocket. You mght have to pull the engine and have the crank ground. I personally don't know if you can get a thicker thrust, but I know you can get your crank ground. A call to Cummins will garner you an answer.

Dave
 
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thanks guys for the info , i bought the truck out of texas and i took it to schrawzt in peru, the dealer i bought the truck off of forgot to tell me that he had the seal changed for months ago if i would oof nown that i would not have bought the thing. so i am trying to get them to pay for the repairs. hey philip i 'll have to get with you i am off next week and maybe we can look at it
 
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