Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine rebuild

[Wyomingcowboy]

There is a seller on e-bay offering an ARP stud kit for $400. Does that sound right? Is it really worth it? How much are OEM head bolts?

 

[kenny61]

The ARP studs are worth it if your going to be running higher boost 40-45lbs+ ARP makes some good stuffUse the usuall Ebay cautions look around and see what you can pay for them somewhere else that other people have used

 

[ThrottleJockey]

God, yes. O-Ring or Fire ring, stud it, clamp it down and do your retorques and forget it.



80 psi and below I don't have to worry about and I couldn't make 80 psi if I tried.

 

[DFleming]

I would O ring the head and run studs, I dont think you need to firering it. I would also run some new valve spring since you are running that H2 cam. I can't what to install mine Oo. .

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Is there an interference angle to grind the valves too?

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

When it comes to washing the parts, we just got a nice spray cabinet and 55 gallons of non-corrosive solvent. I am throwing all of the obvious stuff in there but what about some of the electricals? Like the starter, or the VP-44? I was kinda thinking the starter should be ok since it hangs out in the water, mud and crap anyway while riding around on our trucks, but what about the VP? Both are pretty grimy and I have cleanind alot with pressure washer prior to teardown and cleaned quite a bit with solvent as well. This spry cab. would sure make the job easy though. What are your thoughts?

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Anybody tried this? Anybody?

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

OK... ... getting ready to put it all together soon and am looking at motor oils. I have used rotella 15w-40 without incident since I bought the thing and all the internals looked great still, even considering all the huge problems that happened. I am looking now at going the amsoil route. Is there a downside to starting with synthetic? Should I run petro oil first and then switch? All of the seals/gaskets will be brand new.

Also, I know this is like asking which burrito tastes better (all of the answers are going to be subjective,) but what type of amsoil do you like? The blend, or the all synthetic?

 

[Joe Mc]

I've always heard to run dino on a break in - not sure why? But, it can't hurt it and changing the oil sooner than you would with Amsoil (due to expense) would show you what's been happening if you send it out for analysis then after the next oil change you can switch to Amsoil.

 

[hsmith]

Use dino for break in for sure. Then you can switch to syn if you want.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I don't know if this applies anymore someone can correct me. I heard that the reason to start with dino is to allow the pistons to seat. Synthetic is to slick and won't let the rings seat and you would not build compression have excess blow-by. Once seated using dino for one oil change put in synthetic and be on your merry way.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

OK... ... getting ready to put it all together soon and am looking at motor oils. I have used rotella 15w-40 without incident since I bought the thing and all the internals looked great still, even considering all the huge problems that happened. I am looking now at going the amsoil route. Is there a downside to starting with synthetic? Should I run petro oil first and then switch? All of the seals/gaskets will be brand new.

Also, I know this is like asking which burrito tastes better :-{}(all of the answers are going to be subjective,) but what type of amsoil do you like? The blend, or the all synthetic?

Anyone else want to chime in? A scientist type, perhaps?!?!

Also, upon reassembly, plain motor oil would work for cam installation, etc. , no?

 

[kenny61]

Anyone else want to chime in? A scientist type, perhaps?!?!

Also, upon reassembly, plain motor oil would work for cam installation, etc. , no?

REgarding Cam installation Its been a long time so I forget the specific. You need cam lube specifically made for breaking in a new cam and lifters. You are supposed to then run it at a high idle for about 30 minutes.



FYI I have 200 K on my truck running Rotella T and am very happy with it. I know this is low mileage on a Cummins...

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Whoooaaa, dude.



You can't run synthetic on a rebuild until you have 20,000 miles on it. And make sure you change the oil and filter on your first 1000 miles.



I ran some Rotella through mine for 22000 with oil changes at 1000 and 3000 mile interval, dumped out the crappy Rotella and went to the good Stuff!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

How many times did you change the oil prior to the 22k mark?

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Every 3000 miles. Seven times.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Question on the new rear crank seal... .

I have the new seal with the plastic alignment tool figured out, but what is this extra metal ring for? It was so long ago that I pulled it all apart that I don't remember how it all went together or what exactly came off. AllData (or some data as I refer to it often) is not helping me. Anybody got a pic or any advice?

Thanks!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Also, for the oil cooler gasket, is that supposed to be metal like the old one, or did they replace that with a different type? The kit didn't come with a metal one.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I think I figured out my rear main dilemma... . the little ring is the installation tool! I wasted an hour on that deal... ...

I'll have some time before the oil deal install, hope I get some replies about that... . !!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

How about the rear plate, housing, or whatever it's called? Got any torque specs or maybe even a name would suffice! I'm talking about the housing that goes over the top of the rear crank seal retainer. It's also the same thing that the starter bolts to.