Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine rebuild

[Wyomingcowboy]

Ok, how bad is a split pan gasket? I was torqueing to 18 ft lbs, per specs, and it never got there. I quit turning when I noticed the gasket had split and I could see the two pieces from around the hole and under the lip of the pan. Should I tear it out and replace it?

 

[kenny61]

I would pull it apart if the gasket is actually torn replace it. Maybe it just squished out?

 

[Joe Mc]

Ditto on the pan gasket, the last thing you want is to have a nice new motor with an oil leak that has to be removed to replace a lousy pan gasket.

Need some pictures . . .

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Thanks guys, I will post some pics tonight.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Got any tips about how to support engine while I finish bolting on the goods? i have the oil pan on and right now it's hanging from the cherry picker and from 3 bolts in the back of the block attached to a stand. I guess I could just lay it on it's side..... but I do have the oil cooler in place now in addition to the VP..... ideas?







pics will follow soon - promise

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

The first is a pic of my split pan gasket poking out from underneath

second is my updated housing to address the KDP (Igot lucky with this and not getting a 53 block I suppose)

next is the rear main, front main, and timing cover and VP installed.

I have also installed the oil cooler but have no pics yet. I would have installed the coolant pipe/ belt tensioner deal but as usual, I could find no sort of torque specs on SomeData. Speaking of that and the water pump, do they have regular gaskets as well as o-rings, or just o-rings?

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

It happened again#@$%! What the heck is causing these gaskets to split? The torque specs say 18 ft lbs. I don't know how many I put to it before I saw the gasket squish out, but it was no where near 18 ft lbs. :{

Is it the silicone, or what??? The only reason I put silicone on the rear side was because of a TSB I found saying to do so. Should I not have done that?



What I did was proceed to apply silicone in the ugliest bathroom style caulk job you have seen! At $25 a pop I can't afford too many more mistakes like this.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Apply the silicon thinly to the pan side ONLY, make sure the gasket is perfectly positioned, and then let the assembly fully set up before installing the pan - be sure the block surface is clean and dry before installing the pan and gasket. If you try to assemble the gasket and pan with too much silicon and on both sides, and while the silicon is still fresh, it acts like a lubricant instead of a cement/sealing agent, and causes the gasket to deform and squirt out as the bolts are tightened.



Small-block GM engines, both pan gaskets and valve covers used to do the same thing, if you don't do it as I described above.



Good luck.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

How many guys have skipped the silicone all together with good results? I use the bronze gasket sealer also.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Apply the silicon thinly to the pan side ONLY, make sure the gasket is perfectly positioned, and then let the assembly fully set up before installing the pan - be sure the block surface is clean and dry before installing the pan and gasket. If you try to assemble the gasket and pan with too much silicon and on both sides, and while the silicon is still fresh, it acts like a lubricant instead of a cement/sealing agent, and causes the gasket to deform and squirt out as the bolts are tightened.



Small-block GM engines, both pan gaskets and valve covers used to do the same thing, if you don't do it as I described above.



Good luck.

Thanks, Gary. But do you suppose the silicone is even necessary? I don't remember it being on there when I pulled it off. The TSB is dated 8/24/01 and my manufacture date was July of '01. But, it does state that it relates to 24v motors from '98-'02. I don't want the thing to leak, but I thought that copper coat gasket sealant did a pretty good job by itself. Then how about the gasket itself?? What about just using the form-a-gasket in a can? That stuff works pretty good for other applications. I want to do this right, but the $25 price tag (this next gasket will make #3) is getting expensive. AND, I have to wait 2 days for them to ship locally here in BFE Wyo! (I would think being right off I-80 would, but I guess that's what I get for thinking!) I am riding my bike to work and I'm ready to rumble!

 

[MACHINEST]

As a general rule of thumb. . Put a straight edge on your oil pan if it is pulled up at the bolt holes it will need to be straightened..... if you put a new gasket on put all the bolts in and run them down,just touching,then go around your oil pan about 3-4 times snuging the bolts ..... I would forget the torque wrench.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Thanks, Gary. But do you suppose the silicone is even necessary? I don't remember it being on there when I pulled it off. The TSB is dated 8/24/01 and my manufacture date was July of '01. But, it does state that it relates to 24v motors from '98-'02. I don't want the thing to leak, but I thought that copper coat gasket sealant did a pretty good job by itself. Then how about the gasket itself?? What about just using the form-a-gasket in a can? That stuff works pretty good for other applications. I want to do this right, but the $25 price tag (this next gasket will make #3) is getting expensive. AND, I have to wait 2 days for them to ship locally here in BFE Wyo! (I would think being right off I-80 would, but I guess that's what I get for thinking!) I am riding my bike to work and I'm ready to rumble!

In many cases, the "cement/silicon" isn't required - but when done properly. greatly assists it holding gaskets in place during assembly, KEEPS them in place once installed. and holds it all together if/when the parts are separated again - which was usually the case with the GM valve covers. As also pointed out above, always make sure the pan mounting flange is straight, and not deformed around the bolt holes from prior installations and possible over tightening - careful use of a small hammer and dolly can easily restore the areas around the bolt holes if needed - good luck!

 

[Joe Mc]

Machinest has the idea there. I know you're trying to do it correctly and sometimes using a torque wrench just plan screws things up. Ever torque an intake manifold to 18 - 22 ft lb? Just doesn't seem tight enough does it. As long as the pan is pulled down to the gasket and all surfaces are sealed, screw the torque wrench and just puller it down till they are all snug. Good idea to check the pan bolt rails for straightness too.

Hope you get it this time.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I appreciate it, guys. I am waiting on a new gasket till tomorrow. I'll be doing the slave cylinder then, too. Hopefully I'll be drivin' by Saturday!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Got 'er in!!!!!!!

Dropped the motor in last night!!!Oo. I'm just waiting on the head and the transmission and I can fire 'er up!Oo. Oo. Oo. Oo.





I'm having some heck with the wiring harness at this point, however. Could I get a few pics from someone showing the routes, perhaps? I know where all of the connections/plugs go, I am just having a hard time remembering where the harness itself is routed and where all the little retainers are bolted to. Pics would be absolutely awesome if you have some laying around. Thanks guys!

(BTW - my harness is absolutely NASTY from the puke bottle over the years. Could I clean the wires out with solvent or something, and then re-wrap them?)



Here's the moter minus head, and then me giving it my best Captain Morgan imitation

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Too late for you now - but guys doing some of the more complex work, mechanical, electrical, etc. , should use their digital cameras - or even a cell phone with a camera, to photograph the original setup and work as it progresses, as to have visual documentation for reassembly...

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Thanks Gary..... that's the exact thing I tell my students as well. But you and I both know how it goes... you get into a groove and you can't fathom having to stop and document anything!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

gettin closer......

Oo. It took me 5 hours workin' by myself... . but it's in!!!Oo. (The transmission and transfer case I mean) My camera is toast and worthless now, so I have to use my phone and it's not very good, but it will have to do. It's been a long time but I can definitly see the light!

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Oo. PRAISE the LORD!!!!!Oo. Oo. Oo. Oo. Oo.





She runs again!!!! I have diesel all over the place from purging the lines but by golly, she runs on all 6Oo. !!!!! I need some diesel ASAP and then I'm goin for a drive!!!! How many miles before I should change the oil?

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Even though it's been 9 months since I last drove it I remember it as if it were yesterday! I am running stock tuning for now to get a base milaege with the new equipment. I can already feel the F1 cam and exhaust compared to before. I can hear the exhaust too... . not too crazy about that, but... .



What is the best way to drive this sucker with new pistons and cam? F-1 states that no breakin is required for their cam, but I have new pistons, rings, etc. to go along with it. From what I hear, I should avoid cruise for awhile and lots of different RPM ranges. Does this sound right to you all?



(I'm just so happy it's back!!!!! )