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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Removal....continued

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 47 RE Problem....

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Roof clearance lamp install

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Engine Removal, rebuild ....continued

I thought I would start a new thread to help in people's searches later on down the road. Here is a link to the continuing saga that is my split injector tip and subsequent melted piston and engine removal:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-1998-5-2002/205657-head-removal-3.html

Last night I got the radiator and intercooler out, I also got the AC compressor off and have many wiring harnesses undone. What I need now is to unbolt transmission and motor mounts and yank it out of there. Got any tips for the transmission? I'll be pulling it while I have the motor as well.....

This truck has been pretty good, really it has! It's just been a rough run of bad luck lately.
 
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The engine weighs about 1100 lbs, the trans another 380 or so, and then there is the clutch. You're probably talking about 1,600 lbs or so. And they are pretty big. It might be better to separate them.
 
What are some thoughts on pistons? I saw a kit on e-bay that offerd mahle pistons but read somewhere they were the cheapies. Should I just go cummins oem on this item? or how about low compression pistons? They are to keep the egt's down right? How do they do for power and fuel economy?
 
Cummins already has pretty low compression for a diesel compared to IDI types. I'd say the cummins pistons are the best unless the pistons are made specially for pulling or something like that. I've heard the Marine pistons are the best, but my knowledge is pretty limited.

Mahle is a pretty decent name.

The lower compression is more suited to running upwards of 60 psi of boost. The reason is mostly to keep the chamber pressures down and keep the head gaskets etc. from blowing apart.
 
How hard is it to remove the engine from the transmission? Is there just the 8 bolts holding the two together?

I can get the 8 bolts easy enough but I'm kinda worried about the clutch.
 
Why are you worried about the clutch assembly? It comes out with engine. I'd be worried about getting that heavy B picked out of there. :) Just position a jack under the trans so you can work the angles while doing th install. Mike
 
Lowering compression is risky,

What are some thoughts on pistons? I saw a kit on e-bay that offerd mahle pistons but read somewhere they were the cheapies. Should I just go cummins oem on this item? or how about low compression pistons? They are to keep the egt's down right? How do they do for power and fuel economy?
Might result in hard starting when its really cold.
 
I used a cherry picker to pull an engine from a roll-over and it SUNK into my driveway!! These engines are VERY HEAVY use caution and take your time! Also dont work alone in case you need help/get stuck.
 
Lower compression = more smoky. If you want lower compression use a . 010" over head gasket.

As for pistons get ones that have steel lands on both the upper and lower compression rings.
 
What do you guys do with all the wiring harnesses? That big one just keeps going, and going... . like the energizer bunny. Do you take it off or do you unplug the componants and leave it?



I have most everything undone including the 8 transmission bolts but it just never seems to end with that harness...
 
Never have pulled a Cummins out so I don't know whether or not it would be easier. The vacuum pump unbolts pretty easily with the power steering pump bolted to it, doesn't take long to pull it out.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
I haven't pulled the motor yet but having just got my transmission in and out for a rebuild, I would suggest at least putting the transmission on a transmission jack and backing it away from the motor a little bit. They are heavy and you don't need any more weight to swing around on top of the motor.
 
I pulled my motor and NV-5600 transmission with a cheap $99 dollar 2000 pound engine hoist. I pushed the truck right up to my garage and yanked it out after removing the rad and intercooler and front bumper. One of my neighbors is a jerk and we have an association, so I did it at night. The hoist never touched the driveway and as soon as it was out I shut the garage door. Came right out. My other neighbor, (the cool one) said he thought I was just changing the oil or something. He asked me why it sounded different and I explained the low compression pistons I installed. He said it sounded better. :-laf
 
I got as far as loosening the motor mounts on the frame..... now I can't get the engine up high enough to lift them out of the slots. Should I remove the mounts from the motor in order to get it out? Also, I put the head back on in order to utilize the engine hooks. Is that the best way to do that?



Thanks
 
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Leave the components wired up:

What do you guys do with all the wiring harnesses? That big one just keeps going, and going... . like the energizer bunny. Do you take it off or do you unplug the componants and leave it?



I have most everything undone including the 8 transmission bolts but it just never seems to end with that harness...
There are bulk head connectors above the valve cover. You can also disconnect the rest of the harness at the fuse box.
 
Lift the engine and the trans together

I got as far as loosening the motor mounts on the frame..... now I can't get the engine up high enough to lift them out of the slots. Should I remove the mounts from the motor in order to get it out? Also, I put the head back on in order to utilize the engine hooks. Is that the best way to do that?



Thanks
Place a jack under the trans,lift the engine with the hoist,jack the trans and lift the engine together until the motormounts clear.
 
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