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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Removal....continued

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 47 RE Problem....

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Roof clearance lamp install

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Place a jack under the trans,lift the engine with the hoist,jack the trans and lift the engine together until the motormounts clear.



This will be impossible for me as my cherry picker is only rated to 1K #. I slid the extension in as far as i could and drilled two new holes so i will be able to lift the 1100 # engine out.
 
Once you get all the bolts out of the bell housing (assuming the transmission is floating on a jack), it will take a minor push to get them seperated.

I have stuck a pry bar in the inspection hole between the transmission and the back of the bell housing adapter plate on the rear of the engine and pried.

Just make certain that the transmission is held at an angle that there is no pressure on the tip of the input shaft. This is so the transmission does not go flying when you push it back.
 
No its not.

The supporting cross member will not be enough to support the transmission, huh?
There is too much weight,it will damadge the clutch,it will bind if you don't support the transmission while you pull the engine. You will need the jack to take the weight of the transmission it will help the engine hoist while you seperate the engine from the bellhousing.
 
Use the engine stand and a jackstand under the front of the block to strip it down. I flipped the empty engine block over to install the crank and propped up the front with wood blocks under my freshly decked surface.
 
If your gonna bore out the block strip it down bare. You dont want to worry about where a shaving got to or anything broken off while its being transported
 
does anyone happen to have any links on engine strip down? What are the proper steps for removing cam, pistons, crank..... VP-44, vacuum and power steering, etc. ? Is there a prper way? Obviously I don't want to screw up the crank by just starting at one end and lettin 'er rip.

Does All-Data have this kind of info?
 
Unless a diesewl is different you can just take it out its the torquinf when install that matters. If your concerened just remove bolts in reverse order of the torque to install spec
 
I was looking at this kit here: eBay Motors: Dodge Cummins Truck 5. 9L 24v Diesel Engine Rebuild Kit (item 260304611697 end time Nov-21-08 16:18:42 PST)

and it says Mahle is the OEM piston that Cummins uses. Is that right? Would I be better to go with Cummins genuine parts?



I would price it out from cummins or an auto parts store. If the price is what you can afford buy it from them. Off ebay you are buying from a stranger and the box might say mahle but who knows whats in it.
 
Well I just got an e-mail from Cummins Rocky Mountain with a list roughly matching the e-bay list. The pistons from Cummins are $170/ea without pins or rods. That alone is more money than the whole kit!



How many of you are running Mahle pistons? I am a newbie at this stuff and I have no idea. Is Cummins OEM going to be that much better? I kinda pounded a little on a few of the rods to get them out so I might have scarred them a little bit and might need to replace them. I want to get another million miles out of this thing and don't know what to expect from Mahle.



Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate more than you know.
 
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