Engine run on/ dieseling

[nopowerforme]

My wife has taken the truck on a traing course for a week just days after I installed the 230/605 kit from TST so I never really got to enjoy it... . BUT my question here is she said on one day she shut the key off and the truck kept running , she said it was making a higher pitched noise then it does when it is actually running she turned the key on and off a few times but after about 20 seconds (but seewmed to her to be hours) it stopped It has not done it again in several days


Any Ideas? And if it should keep running what does she or I do?

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1995 green 2500 3:54 K&N air filter, TST, EGT and Boost gauges, Amsoil synthetic oil in rear end
TST 230/605 power uprate kit. New name will be Plenty of power for me

 

[Rammin On]

Check your shut down solenoid!

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'95 2500 Stretch 4X4, Auto, 3. 54, 265/75/16, white. TST #5 250/635 plate, 215/230 injectors, Pschotty Air, Cummins chrome, BD Valve Body, Pro-torque LS convertor, BD pressure-loc, mystery switch, JRE 4" turbo to tailpipe w/ monster tip, BD exhaust brake, ISSPRO boost and pyro, Grover air horns, Pioneer CD system, Galaxy 99 CB w/ 400 linear, nerf bars, Rancho 9000's, 8K tag-a-long RV ... Life is Good!

 

[illflem]

Smart wife you've got,turning the key off and on was the best thing she could of done even though it didn't help. It could be your fuel shut down solenoid is sticking and not closing fully,wait and see if it does it again before messing with it. Also if your turbo oil seals are leaking the oil will enter the engine and cause it to run on,pull the intake hose and see if the turbo blades or the tube to the inner cooler are covered with oil. I've never replaced the turbo seals but have heard it's rather easy to do. Guess the recommended way to stop a run on is spray the airbox inlet with a CO2 fire extinguisher,seems pretty severe to me but what else can you do?

 

[RColston]

The high piched noise that you hear is probably your starter still engaged. I had this problem, turn off the key-truck still runs #ad
. Most likely your starter solenoid is sticking. Search the posts for threads containing starter solenoid. There you will find the cure, or some varaious options. Took me 5 count-em 5 trips to D. C. before they took my ever so humble suggestion to replace the starter(under extended warranty, which after this repair probably finally paid for it's self with a mere 25k mi. to go. Good Luck.

P. S. Glad to hear that your sig. no longer reflects the truth.

Rick. #ad


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1996,2500,CC,SLT,Driftwoodx2,2wd,5spd. ,3. 54,K&N,AirRide,Reese20k,1996 Hitchhiker,36RK 2slide pretty stock, but lookin' for more!

 

[LandShark]

Had that exact same problem last year. It's the starter solenoid (it's part of the starter). If you decide to take the easy route and buy a new or rebuilt be sure to shop around. You'll find prices from about $125 to over $600! Wish I had known about the solenoid rebuild kit last year.

A temp fix is to take the solenoid apart and clean the large copper washer like contacts inside. They are what sticks and allows the voltage feedback which allows the motor to run with the key off. It's a fairly easy job.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
110,000 miles and counting.

 

[rhoads]

Smart wife!! Now here is what she could do the next time---.
Shut off the key.
Still run's
Pop the hood and pull down on the shut off solenoid throw linkage (solenoid link/plunger) that is how to over ride the the key even if it is in the on position. .
IN this case(key on) will be harder to over ride the magnetic's.
Point is- if it is (sol)sticking in the run position this will over ride,you can remove -clean out rust in sleeve cly. re-seal the boot,if already torn will fail again$125 bye-bye.
But if the starter is still engaged as some have elude'd too,be you the owner/tec
strike sol / (bottom of the starter- easer target)as hard as you can swing a heavy min. 2lb hammer and as in my past experance will cure the starter run on .
This happens when starter /sol is close to new-or because because of lack of cranking amp's(bad conn) but never been able to prove one or the other after striking the starter HARD be it big rig's or the little 5. 9 cummins starter or gasser... .


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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.

 

[Archive]

I currently have a 95 with this solenoid problem. I cannot buy a solenoid anywhere in town much less a kit. Does anyone know who carries a rebuild kit or a solenoid only? Would Cummins carry it? I located the connector to the fuel shutoff solenoid so at least I can hopefully cut the juice and get it stopped the next time.

I hope it is not the fuel shutoff, the guy ahead of me at the dealer parts counter dropped $460. 00 for that part.

 

[illflem]

TractorNut, most of what goes wrong with the shut down solenoid is caused by dirt or corrosion rather than worn out parts. Just remove it and clean it up and see if it helps. If the boot is torn it needs to be replaced, you can't buy it separately, I've used bicycle inner tubes and stainless steel tie wire to fabricate similar boots. You may be right about the cost of the solenoid, but it seems like I've heard less than that before. $460 goes a long way for doing your own repair.

 

[Jeff Burke]

TractorNut, I agree with illflem, dirt is usually the culprit, not the solenoid itself. The other area that you need to clean and lube is the clevis and pin at the bottom of the solenoid, where it connects to the shutoff. Mine was all corroded and would not let the solenoid extend out all the way. After I cleaned and greased it, the valve functioned fine.

 

[illflem]

The solenoid is to the left of the fuel filter and a little lower, the top is about the size of a dollar coin. There are wires coming out the top that go to a connector on the top rear of the engine.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[Jeff Burke]

If you installed your own torque plate, the solenoid shares 2 of the bolts on the AFC housing.

 

[nopowerforme]

Illflem and Jeff Thanks... . I know where it is now once you said that about the two bolts I knew exactly what it was. I love this forum.

#ad


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1995 green 2500 3:54 K&N air filter, TST, EGT and Boost gauges, Amsoil synthetic oil in rear end
TST 230/605 power uprate kit. New name will be Plenty of power for me

 

[nopowerforme]

Does anyone have a pic of where exactly this solinoid is? and the wire to disconnect?

 

[2shus]

I bought the solenoid from cummins for $278. 00, the dealer was going to charge me $400. 00. I have found that any cummins part the dealer has is marked a $100. ++ dollars or more. #ad
#ad


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1995 Dodge 2500 SLT Reg. cab 4x4 Auto,Long Bed 12 valve, 3. 5 rears, K&N Air filter 112,000 miles Anti lock brk sys, 305/70-16/Mickey Thompson Alum. wheels,Leer cap, Nerf Bars, Black/Black C/D Player Overload springs, Reese Hitch, T. C. Lockup switch, Cats dead, straight pipe.

 

[Wilycyote]

The same thing happened to me twice. Turning the key off and on a few times worked for me. I took it to my 5-star DC dealer and was told they counldn't get it to do it for them so there wasn't anything they could do. Next morning it did the same thing only with a lot of smoke from the shut off solenoid. Had to shut it down manually. It smoked the solenoid, relay and a couple of fusable links. $350 for parts and labor. Day after I got it back it wouldn't start. All I got was a click. Had to replace the starter. $400 parts and labor. I did take the opportunity to tell the servcice writer and Mgr. what I thought of there trouble shooting knowledge. I think your better off going to Cummins to have your problem checked out, if your not looking for warranty. Good Luck

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1996 ram 4x4 ext cab. BD products, Oversize injectors,250 torque plate 4"cat back, torque lock. pressure lock, and BD Auto Transmission,Pac-Brake

 

[Missouri Mule]

Wilycyote,
Seems you had short somewhere in starting system.
If the starter was clicking it was probably a contact point burned out in the starter solenoid.
My truck was occasionally would do high pitched whine and would not shut down.
I believe now that the return fuel line was the culprit for this problem. I think fuel leaking onto starter found its way into starter solenoid(this is theory the diesel could of caused electrical malfunction)helping to deteriate the contact point of the battery lead.
Replaced fuel lines and the contact point for battery lead it hasn't done it since.

Now I have to figure out why occasionally my truck won't start in driveway facing up hill. It dosen't seem to be leaking out but leaking back to tank I can prime it and it will start pretty easy. So I have narrowed it down to lift pump or fuel return valve (hopefully not injector pump) I think one of check valves is gone in lift pump. I am going to have mechanic do fuel pressure test soon to find out which one.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

[This message has been edited by Missouri Mule (edited 03-18-2001). ]

 

[bd450]

Missouri Mule,

I had the same hard starting when parked nose up hill. Started fine when I backed it in the driveway so the nose was downhill.

Was the fuel return line. $10 and two hours later it starts fine all the time. If you haven't changed that hose allready now is the time.