Pretty easy to get decent power increase on the 12 valve 5. 9 with the P7100 injection pump without having to lay out much $$. Expensive part of the project that needs to come first is the transmission and torque converter upgrade that you’ll need to handle the extra power. I’m assuming you’ve already done that and don’t care about drive train warranty before proceeding with my suggestions for the engine work:
1) Looks like you’ve already addressed the KDP issue.
2)BEFORE making any power upgrades: get a good set of gages for trans temp, boost, and pyrometer (pre-turbo). I like the BD X-monitor with the A-pillar mount. Easy do-it-yourself kit, all the information is convenient to survey at a glance, compliments the interior, and can set alarms to flash the display if a set-point is exceeded.
3) Change the injection timing to 16° BTDC.
4) Swap out the factory fuel plate for a #8 plate in the P7100. I’ve got mine set 0. 050” forward from factory position.
5) Pull out the fitting feeding boost pressure to the waste gate actuator and replace it with a 1/8” pipe plug. Factory turbo’s still working fine for me, but this will at least get you by for cheap until you decided what, if any, turbo change you might want to do. You do not want to exceed 44# boost with factory head-bolts still installed.
6) Adjust up the governor’s RPM limit to between 3500-3750 RPM using the adjustment screw on the P7100. You do not need to change governor springs for this and it will really help take advantage of the torque converter upgrade you mentioned.
7) Since you intend to tow, install a mystery switch to take manual control over converter lock-up.
8) Get a good exhaust brake – AFTER installing 60# valve springs.
I have all the engine mods described above on my truck except for the exhaust brake and the valve springs. Flooring mine from idle will generate a small amount of dark smoke until the boost starts building, but that happens pretty quick. And I’ve found that when running empty I have to be gentle on the throttle on slick roads including just wet from rain – wheel spin is quite easy in 2WD even with limited-slip differential. Before the torque plate, timing, and waste gate changes; my boost would creep up to 22 psi near max RPM of 3000 and push the exhaust temp to just over 1000. After the mods, I can get 34# of boost by 1500 RPM and the pyro will eventually climb to about 1225°F if I stay on it long enough.
I haven’t had it on a dyno and I’m sure I wouldn’t win any prizes; however, my goals were satisfied: Riding empty, this truck now passes on 2-lane roads better than our van’s 3800 V-6. And the cruise control doesn’t have any trouble holding set point on a grade even with a load in the back and/or tied on behind. Before, I was watching the speedo fading downward with the throttle wide-open on a grade. Now, the speedo is rock-steady while the boost pressure and exhaust temp indicate cruise control's incremental increases in throttle position. I’ve yet to load it heavy enough since the mods for the cruise control to pull the throttle wide open maintaining 70 mph on the same grade that the factory set-up previously had me down out of overdrive below 50 mph at WOT with nothing but a weekend’s worth of suitcases in the back.
PM me if you’d like any pictures or more details on any of the above. I’ve done all the work on my truck myself except for the transmission work.