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Engine upgrades

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tempature gauge swing

Lubrication

Gentlemen, and ladies, can you help? My wife and I want to tow a trailer so I'm looking to make my 96' Dodge reliable.

These are the upgrades I'm planning but I need to know how to do it. I'm going to replace the transmission and torque converter to one built by Georend Transmissions. I'm going to replace the exhaust manifold with a three piece. I would also like to ugrade to 230hp which I need the most help with. I'm going to install a DDS steering stabilizer. And I want a set of guages to keep track of the improvements.

I've been reading all the threads that I can about increasing engine performance and I'm having trouble traking down those that would help me most. Can you help me with what I have to do to increase engine performance to 230? :confused:

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96' Dodge 4X2, 5. 9L 12 vavle, automatic, 4" exhaust w/no cat, stock configuration, 188K.
 
My wife keeps looking at that 31' fifth wheel, I want to keep it to a 27' at about 8K lbs.

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96' Dodge, 4X2, 5. 9L 12 valve, automatic, 4" exhaust w/no cat, Stock configuration.
 
Ditto on the fuel plate (torque plate). What a simple replacement! I had mine changed out on my '95 and it was like a new truck, added about 100 HP. To look at the plate itself, you wouldn't believe those little grooves could make such a difference.



I was pulling a 33' 5th, approx 12,000 lbs then and it made a big difference, especially on those long, slow uphill grades.
 
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You will want to us the new found power so gauges are a must. My opinion only, upgrade the air intake. Lots of choices there. A #8 plate. A plate can be adjusted forward to give even more power. I run governor spring kit because I have manual trans. Someone who is towing with an automatic can advise if this would be a good upgrade for you. Another place you could upgrade is the exhaust, but I would run what you have on the truck now.

John
 
Thank you Snappy (John), mrtrombley for your help. Now I have to discover where the fuel plate is located. I'll check with my service manual. I was towing my tractor with implements on an 18' flatbed at about 6K lbs and my truck seemed to lack a little power up the steep grades. No I'm not a hotrod but in some situations it's nice to have a little more. I'm running 4. 10's in the diffy and I am equipped with the Prodogy brake controller as well, very nice. I've had the radiator, intercooler, oil cooler and A/C condensor cleaned. At the same time they tabbed the KDP, replaced the thermostat and antifreeze, checked all the intercooler connections for leaks and I've checked the turbo for free movement. All worked well before and works better now. Much piece of mind. I will be doing a brake job as well as upper and lower ball joints early spring along with the other improvements listed earlier. Again, thank you for your help. Larry.

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96' Dodge 4X2, 5. 9L 12 valve, automatic, 4. 10 gears, KDP tabbed, everything cleaned, stock configuration.
 
Hello again, here's an update. I spoke with Ron today at FIS and he can order the parts, install the #8 fuel plate,clean and rebuild my injectors, install an 3piece exhaust manifold and install a bung in the turbo down pipe for a little more than I can order the pieces for and do the work myself considering I have lot of studing to do because I'm a newby. AND I don't have to do the work. Being retired I want to enjoy life and my truck without a lot of extra work which I don't have time for. You know the old saying that (I'm busier now than when I worked a regular job) what with volunteering my time and all. So the engine will be tip-top soon leaving me to do the gauges, suspension, brakes and transmission this spring.

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96' Dodge 4X2 5. 9L 12 valve, auto, 4. 10 diffy, soon not to be so stock.
 
Glad to hear that you have a plan. This site has an amazing amount of information and the search function is a very good feature. If the truck goes mechanical, chances are that someone has already "been there and done that". Have fun. John
 
Thank you for words of encouragement snappy. I find the problem that as you say they've been there and done that. They have moved on to the generation 3 or 4 Dodge trucks and aren't really intereseted in my new found toy. I will continue to find good information and make appropriate modifications. Just ordered a complete turbo back exhaust system for my truck as I just found out it has a 3 1/2" exhaust. considering what we want to do, I need the upgrade. Larry.

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96' Dodge Ram 2500 4X2, 5. 9L diesel, automatic, 4. 10 diffy.
 
Hello Missouri Mule, I have read a number of threads that offer the same insight. I spoke with my sister and brother inlaw that tow a 31" fifth wheel with a 07' Chevy duramax with an exhaust? or transmission brake. She said that if they didn't have that feature, passes would be very scarey. I spoke with a member of the Central Washington Ag Museum where I volunteer my time. He tows with an 07 Ford f350 deisel without a compression brake. His has a 35' fifth wheel and he said he's happy with only having trailer brakes and a good brake controller. His comment was that it's far less expensive to replace the trailer brakes and keep them fresh than to go through the expense of installing and maintaining all the hardware for a compression brake. This individual is not only an accomplished aviation mechanic but a regular mechanic as well in his lifetime. I put it to you this way, there are many different styles of driving and philosophies about how to handle a load. I'm sure with the good coaching of indiviuals like yourself and some real time experiances I will know which way to go. I have been investigating compression brakes. Thank you for your comments. Larry.

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96' Ram 2500 4X2,5. 9L 12 valve, automatic, 4. 10 diffy, KDP tabbed, soon to have a #8 fuel plate with rebuilt injectors for 240Hp, and a new 4" turbo back exhaust. Yet to come will be a pyrometer and transmission temp, and a new transmission and torque converter when required.
 
Pretty easy to get decent power increase on the 12 valve 5. 9 with the P7100 injection pump without having to lay out much $$. Expensive part of the project that needs to come first is the transmission and torque converter upgrade that you’ll need to handle the extra power. I’m assuming you’ve already done that and don’t care about drive train warranty before proceeding with my suggestions for the engine work:

1) Looks like you’ve already addressed the KDP issue.

2)BEFORE making any power upgrades: get a good set of gages for trans temp, boost, and pyrometer (pre-turbo). I like the BD X-monitor with the A-pillar mount. Easy do-it-yourself kit, all the information is convenient to survey at a glance, compliments the interior, and can set alarms to flash the display if a set-point is exceeded.

3) Change the injection timing to 16° BTDC.

4) Swap out the factory fuel plate for a #8 plate in the P7100. I’ve got mine set 0. 050” forward from factory position.

5) Pull out the fitting feeding boost pressure to the waste gate actuator and replace it with a 1/8” pipe plug. Factory turbo’s still working fine for me, but this will at least get you by for cheap until you decided what, if any, turbo change you might want to do. You do not want to exceed 44# boost with factory head-bolts still installed.

6) Adjust up the governor’s RPM limit to between 3500-3750 RPM using the adjustment screw on the P7100. You do not need to change governor springs for this and it will really help take advantage of the torque converter upgrade you mentioned.

7) Since you intend to tow, install a mystery switch to take manual control over converter lock-up.

8) Get a good exhaust brake – AFTER installing 60# valve springs.



I have all the engine mods described above on my truck except for the exhaust brake and the valve springs. Flooring mine from idle will generate a small amount of dark smoke until the boost starts building, but that happens pretty quick. And I’ve found that when running empty I have to be gentle on the throttle on slick roads including just wet from rain – wheel spin is quite easy in 2WD even with limited-slip differential. Before the torque plate, timing, and waste gate changes; my boost would creep up to 22 psi near max RPM of 3000 and push the exhaust temp to just over 1000. After the mods, I can get 34# of boost by 1500 RPM and the pyro will eventually climb to about 1225°F if I stay on it long enough.



I haven’t had it on a dyno and I’m sure I wouldn’t win any prizes; however, my goals were satisfied: Riding empty, this truck now passes on 2-lane roads better than our van’s 3800 V-6. And the cruise control doesn’t have any trouble holding set point on a grade even with a load in the back and/or tied on behind. Before, I was watching the speedo fading downward with the throttle wide-open on a grade. Now, the speedo is rock-steady while the boost pressure and exhaust temp indicate cruise control's incremental increases in throttle position. I’ve yet to load it heavy enough since the mods for the cruise control to pull the throttle wide open maintaining 70 mph on the same grade that the factory set-up previously had me down out of overdrive below 50 mph at WOT with nothing but a weekend’s worth of suitcases in the back.



PM me if you’d like any pictures or more details on any of the above. I’ve done all the work on my truck myself except for the transmission work.
 
I haven't read all the posts , so if I repeat don't read it, a number 8 plate and a boost elbow from tst, or another reputable place . you need to get about 32 psi boost and the reputable dealers elbows are preset . don't do ebay they are junk .
 
Thank you BSMcCauley and champspa for your comments and suggestions. I don't have a trailer as of yet so I don't really have a load to tell the tail. I just recieved my truck back from FIS here in town. They installed a #8 fuel plate, checked the timing right at factory specs, rebuilt the injectors which were tired at 188k, installed a new three piece exhaust manifold and tweaked everything. It purrs like a kitten, will spin the tires on a wet surface when asking for quick power and accelerates like it wants to see open road. The 4" exhaust from the turbo back should be here next week. I should be realizing about 240hp from the mods. For now that's enough. I will install a pyrometer and transmission temp this coming spring. The only trailer that I might tow for now would be for the Central Washington Ag Museum where I volunteer my time. When the snow clears I'll take my truck for a small cruise to enjoy my new power. I will keep your suggestions in mind. Larry.

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96' Dodge Ram2500 4X2, 5. 9L 12 valve, automatic trans, 4. 10 limited slip diffy, #8 fuel plate, performance injector rebuild, KDP tabbed, serpintine belt and idler replaced, anti-freeze and thermostat replaced, radiator intercooler oil coolers and A/C condensor cleaned, valves adjusted, throttle cable and injector linkage replaced, and soon to have 4" exhaust and gauges.
 
'97 mods

Hello TDR,

I'll admit this is my 1st post here:) & as lawrence47, I also would like to bump up a notch or two with my 12V. I have a '97 2500 4x4 with 130K. I'm on the west side of the hump in Washington & tow a 21ft trailer which weighs in at 3K. I'd like to produce 300 hp (nothing radical). I far as I know the truck is bone stock but would not know what to look for either. I know that I have a

4" exhaust, HX35. So kind folks what does a guy need to do?:-laf
 
Hello DSpringstead,

I had a #8 fuel plate installed by Fuel Injection Systems which is tuned for 240Hp. I was told that it can be tuned for a little more if needed. They also rebuilt the injectors by installing better performance nozzels. I would recommend contacting a reputable fuel injection service for good advise regaurding the improvements you want as well as checking the numorous threads from members who have already gone before us. When FIS installed my 4" exhaust for me they said I was good for about 250Hp. Larry.

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96 Dodge 12 vavle 5. 9L, automatic, #8 fuel plate, 4" exhaust, soon to install EGT and tranns temp gauges, pulling a 11Klb fifth wheel. Resonable performance
 
Welcome DSpringstead to the TDR. Is that '97 an auto or manual trans? Have you installed boost and pyro gauges? Gauges first.
 
snappy I have a auto that's in the works of being "freshened up". I do not have gauges, the truck at one time had them & will install a set within the month. My gears are a stock 3. 54's. Wanted to line up the hardware needed for the future
 
300 hp

That automatic trans will not like to see 300 hp. It will need to be built. A 6 plate will yield about 250 hp. Then a a set of injectors.
 
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