Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine using oil, need opinions

[The patriot]

Lots of brake cleaner, rags paper towels. For the final cleaning I'd use a lint free cloth.

Dont forget to get some plastigauge.

 

[CCiatteo]

How would you deal with the crank if the motor is in the truck? That thing must weigh a ton? I understand you could do one main bearing at a time, but if the crank had to come out to be polished, that could really make like difficult for you.



I know where there is a complete truck available 96 2wd regular cab. Its here in NJ and could probably be had a reasonable price. Maybe come get the whole truck and sell off what you don't need??



I'll reach out to this guy and see what's up with it if you want? Don't let the date of the thread deter you. I am almost 99% sure its still available. From the looks of it, the rest of the truck is kinda rough.



Chris



gauging interest... '96 Cummins 5. 9l diesel 12v engine/trans - NJFBOA

 

[GAmes]

How would you deal with the crank if the motor is in the truck? That thing must weigh a ton? I understand you could do one main bearing at a time, but if the crank had to come out to be polished, that could really make like difficult for you.



I know where there is a complete truck available 96 2wd regular cab. Its here in NJ and could probably be had a reasonable price. Maybe come get the whole truck and sell off what you don't need??

I plan on plastigaging a couple of bearings. If they are good I am not going to mess with them. New rings is a stopgap fix to get me to warmer temps and not have to rush into another engine. If the cylinders are excessively worn then I will come up with a plan B (I hope:-laf)



I've already had complaints from the neighbors about my three trailers in the back yard. Soon my project car will be back there also, but covered. A parts truck is out of the question. I would be interested in the engine if he has it out of the truck, but not the "Allison" transmission.

 

[Harlacher]

That is what we would do. Plasti-gage one or two and if they were OK we would put in a new set of standard brgs. Be careful though I have know ford to cut one journal under and leave the rest standard. Don't know if Cummings would do it or not. The brg will say on the back if it is std or over.

 

[Missouri Mule]

GAmes did you just have the leak fixed on the p7100 or rebuilt? Was it a well known company? Could oil leak into the fuel inside the P7100?



In truck rebuild seems the best idea.

 

[GAmes]

GAmes did you just have the leak fixed on the p7100 or rebuilt? Was it a well known company? Could oil leak into the fuel inside the P7100?



In truck rebuild seems the best idea.

A Bosch shop in Austin went thru it. The engine was using a lot of oil before they worked on it, and having the p-pump oil leak fixed was an attempt to stem the flow, so to speak. To my knowledge oil can not get into the fuel in the pump.



I vacillated back and forth on the in truck work and decided to swap out engines after all. I'm not sure if there is enough room to remove #s 5 & 6 pistons, and the expense of rings, bearings and gaskets for a temporary fix might be a dumb idea.

 

[Missouri Mule]

GAmes, have you thought about a reman engine from Cummins?

 

[GAmes]

I thought about it, but couldn't stand the thought of having to run a stock engine for the warranty period:-laf I think I can rebuild one and have a PDR cam plus other goodies for a lot less $$$.

 

[ZRiste]

I haven't scene this thrown in here yet so i'll pitch it. All diesel engines consume oil, its called Brake Specific Oil Consumption (just like fuel. ) Just the nature of them. It mostly is for over the road engines however, and it happens at start up/warm up. Standby generators don't get it as much because they are usually kept in a heated room (around 90-110*) so once they are tripped they can go to full load almost instantly and put out power. I did the calculation for the 6BT's once, and think it was around two quarts for every 250 hours of operation. I'll double check that once I find my reference book.



The usual signs of a worn out engine are high oil consumption, high fuel consumption, lack of power, smoke, and decreased fuel mileage. I know you have high oil, but do you have any of the other symptoms?

That is what we would do. Plasti-gage one or two and if they were OK we would put in a new set of standard brgs. Be careful though I have know ford to cut one journal under and leave the rest standard. Don't know if Cummings would do it or not. The brg will say on the back if it is std or over.

Cummins has the same policy as Cat does, if one journal is bad, they grind them all and use US bearings. Also, dont take this as doggin, but its bad practice to just check one or two bearings. You should check them all, just having one speck of dirt between the bearing and the block or cap can really screw up your clearances. Ive rebuild engines were all were fine except one, and then change them all out.



I might be cheaper to rebuild the engine though, as opposed to buying a new or remaned one from cummins. The deciding factor for that with dealerships or reputable shops is the crankshaft condition and liner ledge protrusion (this one doesnt matter because we dont have liners. ) But cranks are expensive, and if thats botched, its usually cheaper to just buy a new engine. But this is also if you have a dealer do it. If you do it yourself, its always going to be cheaper.

 

[GAmes]

I know you have high oil, but do you have any of the other symptoms?

None of the other symptoms, but I've run out of ideas. If it isn't leaking, going out the blowby hose or out the turbo seal it is burning it.



I have another engine in the garage. Once I have it installed and running I'll do a teardown. I'm not complaining. This engine and the truck surrounding it have paid for themselves at least 4 times over, over and above the repair and upgrade costs.

 

[hsmith]

So, you went back to SA and picked up that one?

 

[GAmes]

Yup. I couldn't find another one in the area and I have been assured that 12 valve 53 blocks are OK. I wish there was a way to determine how many miles are really on it. The seller said 130k, but the rear main is leaking and mine lasted well over 400k. On the other hand it has a Chrysler starter on it, original black valve cover gaskets, looks like original injectors, Denso alternator, original water pump, original A/C compressor (I think). I'm cautiously optimistic. Tomorrow I will pull the front cover, tab the KDP and chech the cranknose for wear, order some seals and gaskets, then get ready for a bass tournament I'm fishing next weekend

 

[hsmith]

Did it include the turbo? Good luck in the tourney. Hope the weather and fish cooperate.

 

[GAmes]

No IP, exhaust manifold or turbo. Everything else is there. I'm turbo rich anyway:-laf

 

[kwoodson]

Try checking the intake side of turbo at the inlet side of aftercooler. A small amount of oil will indicate turbo seal on intake side is leaking,

 

[GAmes]

Try checking the intake side of turbo at the inlet side of aftercooler. A small amount of oil will indicate turbo seal on intake side is leaking,

I did better than that. I tried a different turbo. Still burning oil:{

 

[kwoodson]

If there is no oil from the turbo, sounds like rings, withas many miles as you have on your engine, you may need to look at using straight 40 wt oil. My father bought a new Dodge 250 in 1993. From the time it was new it used a gallon of oil every 1000 miles, he went to a heavier oil and added a quart of STP every oil cahnge, oil consumption dropped to a gallon every 6000 miles, at around 200,000 miles, rings finally seated and oil consumption went to about 1 quart between oil changes, he has stopped the STP additive. The point I'm trying to make is, the heavier oil greatly reduced oil consumpton. If you're not a fan of STP , you can try using the Lucas, I know for a fact it helps. Used it on a Cummins N 14 with a million miles help increase oil pressure and lowered oil consumption also.

 

[BHaden]

Reading this made me go back to my old (still got it) 1964 Ranchero with the 200Cu Inch

six. At the time I had NO money to do repairs of a major nature and it burned a quart every 90 miles; one a day on my 80 mile commute. It had so much blowby the oil would congregate in the valve cover and gradually empty the pan at which time the oil pressure would go away, signalled by the lifters clattering. I would shut it off and coast for as far as I could to let it drain back, pop the clutch and go a few more miles. Figuring I couldn't possibly mess it up any more I tried some MECHANICS brand "Engine Restore". It cut oil consumtion about 80%, from a qt a day to one every 4 or 5 days.

It had noticably more power (probably went from 50 to 60!) and ran smoother. That got me another year or so until I could afford a replacement truck. It might be worth a try just to see what effect it has, maybe verify the ring theory.

 

[GAmes]

Adding thickener to the oil isn't an option for me. This is a truck that could take me 2000 miles from home on the next dispatch. I can't afford the possiblity of being stranded a long way from home. I'm sort of lolly gagging around on putting the new engine in because of the weather. Global warming:-laf has resulted in multiple days of below freezing weather here in central TX and my garage is not heated. Thanks for the suggestions though.