Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine "Warm" Up

[CBlack]

I work in the oilfield so my truck may sit for a few weeks without being run. Upon returning I start the engine without any issues, but then I have to let it idle for several minutes before it'll move. I usually depress the accelerator and get the RPMs up to 1000 and hold it for awhile.



Is this normal? If I don't do this, the truck will stall out if I put it in drive and go.



Thanks.

 

[mfburns]

I have a 94 auto. When its warm out it doesn't have a problem. In the winter it helps to let it warm up a minute or so, the colder the longer the warm up. Yesterday it was 15 F and I hit the heater twice, started up and let it idle maybe a minute or two then go slow around the block to the highway (1/2 mile). The transmission will not go to OD until it warms up but that is about 5 Minutes. I drive mine daily but sometimes it sets for a week but I don't notice any difference. Check the trans fluid.

 

[fest3er]

You might need to adjust your idle. For the past few years, my '98 loses idle speed over time. Tweak it back up to 800-850 when hot and it should be OK cold. Also, put it in neutral when you idle it; this'll get the trans fluid moving and warming up (slightly)

Remember that diesels warm up much faster when they are working. Bring the RPM up to 1000, put it in gear with your foot on the brake, then hold engine speed at 1200-1400 for a minute or three with it in gear; it may take some seconds for it to get past 1000 RPM and for the turbo to spool up some. If you have an EGT gauge, let it get up to about 700 (post-turbo) or 800 (pre-turbo) for a minute or so. In time, you'll know when the engine has initially warmed up to where it'll idle and run nicely.

 

[ttbird]

I work in the oilfield so my truck may sit for a few weeks without being run. Upon returning I start the engine without any issues, but then I have to let it idle for several minutes before it'll move. I usually depress the accelerator and get the RPMs up to 1000 and hold it for awhile.



Is this normal? If I don't do this, the truck will stall out if I put it in drive and go.



Thanks.

CBlack,

After starting, move the gear selector to N (neutral) for a minute or two then put in drive. I think you"ll find that it will move much faster. There is no fluid circulation when it park, and the torque converter has drained down from sitting so long. I do hope that you have an automatic or my tip won't help, read your sig, so your in luck. This is normal for an older truck, mine does it on occasion. Tom

 

[Skydiver]

Torque convertor drains after several days. It's a good idea to place selecter in neutral while warming to allow the transmission to heat up.

 

[CBlack]

Everyone, thanks for the replies. The TC not locking up makes sense. Looks like I'll get to try it as I head out again tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

[KOG]

TC converter lockup is programmed to not happen until transmission and engine are at normal temperature. Later model transmissions do run pump in park as well as neutral, earlier ones can be modified with one hole drilled in valve body to do the same. I thinks your already pumps in park so you won't gain anything by putting it in neutral during warmup, you just have to wait a minute or so. There's also a wider service replacement front pump bushing which reduces drainback, That can be installed if you're doing a complete transmission rebuild, but it's nowhere near worthwhile to pull and disassemble the transmission just to avoid waiting for a minute after a cold start.