Enough truck?/Exhaust brake recommendations

[RNelson]

Hi guys looking for some advice. I recently sold my 1999 Hitchhiker II 28. 5 RL. After living in it during the work week for the past three years I was tired of it and sold it on the spot to another couple wanting to live in it. We are looking at getting another one now that I have a different job and can live at home. The one we are considering is a 2005 Hitchhiker Discover America 33. 5 CKQG. The GVWR on this one is 14. 5k. I'm a little concerned my truck may not be enough for it. At a minimum, I want to add an exhaust brake. I researched them a few years ago and had decided on the US Gear one. Any one have good/bad experiences with this brand or any other recommendations?



I also have the Air Dog air/fuel separation system, but can't seem to recall how to edit my signature.

 

[jelag]

I used to sell and install the PXRB PacBrakes... I can't count the number we sold/installed including a lot of TDR members and some dealers... I'm very biased so you need to make your own choice... but I own a 05, 3500 dually towing a 5er that's close to 15K lbs... I was down the 10% grade out of Teton National Park west and found that in a lower gear than normal the PacBrake held the load and there were times I had to touch the throttle to shut down the brake... to actually speed up... of course on the normal 6% grade there is no problem... . When I ran the business we found that about 18k was the limit for us... to slow down and control without the service brakes on a 6% grade... above that weight (TRAILER WT) we'd need to add the use of the service brake...

On my 05 the brake interfaces with the computer and I just leave the switch on... . I let the brake slow me down into rest stops, in town... all the time... and for me it will fast warm up the truck and interface with the cruise control...

I suggest you go to PacBrakes web sight and follow the menu and see how the unit fits into your needs... and if you have questions give them a call... all the crew on their phones have lots of experience...

Hope this helps...

 

[Grizzly]

I agree with jelag on the PacBrake, which is what I have on my truck. In fact jelag installed it.



My bigger concern is your truck. You don't say, but is it a 2500 or a 3500 dually. For the size and weight of trailer you're talking about, you need a 3500 dually or bigger.



george

 

[Cummins12V98]

Get the PacBrake PXRB it has a 4" outlet. You will need an air compressor, they sell those too and air bags. Great quality and support.

 

[RVTRKN]

You have the right transmission for that year CTD, to add an EB, but your signature is missing if it's a 2500 or a 3500. I was able to tow my 33. 5 Arctic Fox per CAT scales, but with a limited amount of water for toilet use on the road, with my 2500. But if it was fully loaded for dry camping, it would be illegal per DOT, per the door sticker axle ratings.

 

[RNelson]

I agree with jelag on the PacBrake, which is what I have on my truck. In fact jelag installed it.



My bigger concern is your truck. You don't say, but is it a 2500 or a 3500 dually. For the size and weight of trailer you're talking about, you need a 3500 dually or bigger.



george

George,



I have the 2500, not the 3500 dually. Even though we love the trailer and were going to make an offer on it this week, that was one of my concerns. I know the truck will pull it, I was more concerned about being able to stop it, not so much whether I need a dually.



Reed

 

[NIsaacs]

I think the US Gear brake is a remote mount so it requires more fitment than a direct mount such as the Pac or BD. The BD can be had with vacumme operation however if you want air bags at some point, the Pac will have the compressor. With your aftermarket exhaust, make sure any direct mount will fit it.



As far as your truck towing the new trailer, try it and see how it is. If it seems fine to you then do it, if not then upgrade. Every one had a different comfort level when towing, so it is hard to advise.



Nick

 

[RVTRKN]

George,

I have the 2500, not the 3500 dually. Even though we love the trailer and were going to make an offer on it this week, that was one of my concerns. I know the truck will pull it, I was more concerned about being able to stop it, not so much whether I need a dually.

Reed

It will stop it, and without the EB, because of the manual Trans, but I would add one anyway. Get the MaxBrake for that size of a fiver and a SRW truck.

 

[NIsaacs]

I was more concerned about being able to stop it



Reed

The truck stops the truck and the trailer stops it'self.



Nick

 

[RustyJC]

The truck stops the truck and the trailer stops it'self.

In theory perhaps, but in practice there's no way the electric drum brakes on a trailer have the same stopping power and fade resistance as the 4 wheel discs on the truck. In the real world, the truck winds up doing much of the trailer's braking work.



Rusty

 

[RNelson]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. We made an offer on the trailer today and they countered with $500 more which we agreed on. I think I will take your advice and get the Pacbrake. I see that ATS Diesel Performance here in Denver sells them. They installed my South Bend clutch a few years ago and did a great job.

Anybody know how to update the signature block? I went to the profile page and didn't see a way to change it.

 

[mfurrh55]

Guys, thanks for all the replies. We made an offer on the trailer today and they countered with $500 more which we agreed on. I think I will take your advice and get the Pacbrake. I see that ATS Diesel Performance here in Denver sells them. They installed my South Bend clutch a few years ago and did a great job.

Anybody know how to update the signature block? I went to the profile page and didn't see a way to change it.

Don't go to profile, just click on settings and it will take you where you can edit your signature. , Monte

 

[RVTRKN]

I had trailer brake issues once, and I cut the wire to the brakes to complete the trip with 500 miles to go, at 23K GCVW. It was with my 3500 C&C, so the exhaust brake was an advantage, but only on the open road, in city traffic, I was very cautious and planed my route ahead of time. The brakes are much better than the early CTD trucks and can stop heavy loads with some finesse. But with the 2500 suspension maxed out and the size of that 5ver, Maxbrake should be your only option, to help keep the trailer under control when emergency braking is required. Good luck with your purchase and enjoy the extra room you now have with your larger 5ver.

 

[NIsaacs]

I think I will take your advice and get the Pacbrake.

Excellent plan, you will wonder what took you so long, especially living in Colorado.



Nick

 

[CKelley1]

the bd has a better mount on the compressor than pac. if you go pac have them mount the compressor somewhere else other than the engine, the heat and vibration ruin the electric motor and as RVTRKN stated only use the maxbrake. it is the only safe true controller on the market.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I mounted my air compressor and tank under the bed with brackets I made.

 

[Cummins12V98]

This shows the air compressor installed.

 

[MChrist]

Just throwing this out there in an effort to help, but if you're going to install an air tank with a small compressor for the exhaust brake, toss in some air bags for the rear axle. Use the tank to add air when loaded, or the rear will squat a bit under that much weight.
I installed the fancy remote controlled air bag system in my sig, and it worked great. . when it worked. I redid it a few times, then decided to just bypass the electronics and the pump and just do it manually.
With your 6 speed manual and exhaust brake and that Max Brake controller, I don't think you'ld have a problem slowing down a trailer twice that weight!!
And if you want more stability, you could upgrade tires and wheels to 19. 5s with a 225 or 245 width. our smaller service trucks use 225/70/19. 5 tires, and feel much more stable than our lighter trucks that use 16" tires (both dually setups). I hear from people that have switched from 16s to 19. 5s in a SRW setup that they feel much more solid under load, and only slightly more bumpy unloaded. Although, you can drop air pressure quite a bit unloaded to soften the ride.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I mounted my air compressor and tank under the bed with brackets I made.



View attachment 85228

Neat installation, that is on passenger side, right and are those pop rivets/what size? bg

 

[Cummins12V98]

Neat installation, that is on passenger side, right and are those pop rivets/what size? bg

Thanks!

I am looking at the fuel tank in the background. The head of the air compressor is to the front side of the truck shown in above pic. In this pic the front is to the right. The tank is centered over the driveshaft. The compressor is to the passenger side a bit. I ran the air filter for the pump up high in the side of the bed out of the weather.

I used #10 X 3/4" driller phillips head screws.

Good Idea on the pop rivets. I have had a couple screws come loose but not fall out. I need to put on some locktight or use pop rivets as you mentioned. Vibration from the air compressor probably loosened the screws.

I have added PacBrake air bags, in cab controls, air chuck under the hood and air horns. They all work great.