Espar revisited

[Wheaties]

Hummmmmm...........

Marc,



Let's get together on this. It will be much easier if we can look at both trucks at the same time. Also, I've been told not to use a plastic reducer as they can get brittle with the fuel and all. I made something up with brass fittings you can get from a good auto supply or even Home Depot. You'll need to seal the pipe threads if you make something up, and again, don't use white telflon tape, it isn't rated for fuel. There was a thread on everyone's thread sealant. Yellow teflon tape is okay, some people use anti-seize, others like the gasket stuff.



John,



Yup, you have the older sending unit. The cap with the nipple should come off and you can drop the sending line right in. That cap is gone, but the nipple remains, molded right into the entire sending unit.



Somehow the mount doesn't look right. I think you might be one bolt too far forward, but then again you might have a different brake harness???? I'll try to post pictures of mine this afternoon. It's in between the raindrops to do anything today.



Here's a discovery: I got all ****** off with the heater not starting yesterday, then this light goes off, I'm down to 1/8 of a tank. Filled the tank this morning and after a few 'priming' starts, she takes right off. I'll have to keep the tank up above 1/4 if I expect it to run, maybe higher.



Matt

 

[ACoyle]

Well, it's done and working! I expect ma arms to heal within the next week or so. I found another thing that I like about the '99 model. That is the sender has the spare fuel pickup. I am lucky enough to have a son in law who put "Banta" up on a lift and we dropped the fuel tank about a foot on a transmission jack. Made the pickup install a breeze.



He also helped me with the plate install. Other than prying the brake plumbing out of the way it was only tedious.



Never pulled the starter. It can all go in from the top.



Had to work with the timer a bit. When it says that you can set three different start times it does not mean that they will all be operative. The last timer that you looked at will be active. The other two timers can be active by using the "P" button to look at them. No more thatn one timer will be active at at time. The other timers just store a number in case you want it later. I had hoped to set all of the start times that I need for a day and forget it. Not gonna happen!



It is great to come out to a warm truck, take you coat off and drive. "Banta" likes being warmed up a little too. Working in NY, I am kind of curious how someone will react then they walk past a parked empty truck and hear the heater fire up. Folks around here are jumoy lately.



Andy

 

[Wheaties]

Andy,



Congratulations!!

Glad to hear your truck is warm & happy about it.



Went to visit some folks over the New Year. Well,

my friend went out to walk the dog on a bitter cold morning and came back wide eyed. "Your truck is making the most incredible sound!", he said.



Matt

 

[Alaskaskiff]

Congrats on the install. I use my almost daily. Probably makes the neighbors wonder, but in the end they are probably happier since I can just light off the truck and drive with zero idling.

 

[Lug-nut]

Originally posted by JohnE



I'm planning to use a spare channel on my alarm systems to trigger the ESPAR. If you plug into pin 7 of the remote timer you can trigger the on/off feature with a 12 volt pulse.

I am planning to do the same thing with my spare remote channel, but you need to be careful here. I did a little poking around here and found that when you ground terminal 7 it cycles the heater off and on. I would be cautious about pulsing it with 12 volts.



Just my . 02

 

[JohnE]

Thanks Lug-nut;



I got the <em>+12v</em> info from ESPAR, but the schematic does depict <b>grounding</b> pin 7 to cycle the Espar.



I never got the alarm setup. In fact I'm changing my systems to an alarm remote start combo. Remote start comes in handy to run the A/C on a hot summer day.

<blockquote><hr>

araiha said:

<b>&quot;... Probably makes the neighbors wonder, but in the end they are probably happier since I can just light off the truck and drive with zero idling. &quot;</b><hr></blockquote>

Doesn't make one of <b>my</b> neighbors any happier. He drives a 97 PowerStroke and hears my Espar running in the morning while he goes out to start a cold truck. I leave before him, too. Actually, I wish the garage was cleaned out so I could park inside and just use the block heater. The Espar was meant for the cold parking lot at work, ec.



-John

 

[Lug-nut]

Someone posted the part numbers for the connector pins for the timer plug. Has anyone had any success locating these parts. I have been looking around locally, but have had no luck, and an internet search has provided nothing either... . mainly because I don't know what to ask for.



TIA

 

[BRobertson]

I installed my Espar just before my trip (Alaska to Vegas and return)

I did the install by myself. It would be far easier for some steps to have a helper)!!!!! The fuel tank remove and replace being one example!!!

For what the kit costs I feel that the way it taps into the heater plumbing is mickey mouse. Eventually I will make up some formed rigid lines for mine!!

If someone has the time and resources they could save some bucks with a Webasto (sp?), but be prepared to spend a lot of time acquiring all the components.

We like our Espar so much, that we think it should be a factory option!!!

Bob

 

[schu777]

Just curious, is there anyone out there with Espar and a Transfer Flow Aux tank too? I'm sure that to get the Aux tank to work, you have to drop the main tank too, and if one was thinking ahead, you could maybe? kill two birds with one stone and get the plumbing ready for the Espar when the Aux tank is getting put in?

 

[Swisznie]

I have a D5 unit installed on a 2001. Had it done by the local distributor(price was right -$1200 installed). When I first approched them and asked for the d4/dodge kit they didn't want to have anything to do with it; (they install 100+ espars on trucks and buses every year); it didn't take much to persuade me to go with the bigger unit. The whole installation process took approximatelly 4 hours, the heater was installed in a metal box under the passanger seat. , unfortunately they did not go directly to the tank(I think they used a return line) for fuel... guess what they will be redoing that part of the installation next week.



I have the TransferFlo (aft axle) tank on my truck and suggested that they use it to get at the fuel , I was told its a bit too far from the heater for their liking.



While I was at the garage I inquired about pin #7 and was informed that it should be no problem(we actually tested it on their demo unit). Tried it as soon as I got home- used a spare channel on my remote starter (trunk opener) and wired the thing in less than 1/2 hour. It works great, does not cycle on-off. The dealer wanted $150 for an Espar remote starter. By the way you do not need a tool to remove the pins from the harness- 2 paper clips and 3 hands work fine.

 

[ACoyle]

Shu777

I have a transfer Flow. I considered using the aux tank. I would have to have messed with theire sender and didn't want to. I have a '99 and also could have used the aux pickup. Don't really know why they don't like that. Anyway, my son in law has a lift, trans jack and air tools. Made the job very easy.



Swiszine



I am very interested in the remote / alarm thing. I have a factory alarm, which as far as I Know has no extra channel. Can you or someone else tell me which alarms have extra channels. Also I bought the Espar remote and sometimes when I trigger the heater, it sets the car alarm off. Maybe close in frequency. I would like to remove the factory alarm and Espar remote and install one alarm that does it all. I could use some suggestions.



Thank You

Andy

 

[Swisznie]

Andy,

I have an add-on remote starter on my truck(02 3500). The remote control has 4 buttons lock, unlock, start and a open trunk feature. I am using the trunk channel to start the espar remotely (it sends a negative volatge) - wired directly to pin 7 on the harness.

My factory alarm is still in place, don't have any interferance from the remote start module. (The remove start also has a kill switch feature - have to put the key in the ignition within 45 seconds of unlocking the doors).

If I didn't have the system in question I would look into the possibility of using the 'panic' channel on the factory system.

Good luck

Stan

 

[Wheaties]

DON'T DO WHAT I DID

I know, I know... I told you guys you didn't have to drill a hole in the newer sending units. I'm going to go back on my word here, and now I'm telling you you really should drill that hole and add that steel sending line that came with the Espar.



This is why: I have gone all winter with the alternative that I suggested, using that auxiliary nipple on the sending unit. Whenever the tank got below 1/2 full, I would start getting air in the line, and the Espar would fail to start. No big deal, you should keep your tank pretty full in winter anyway, right? Well, a friend of mine has one too (Andy) and his will run just fine with the tank close to empty. Why? Because he has the older sending unit and dropped the steel line into the auxiliary hole like he was supposed to.



This weekend I finally got the truck back on the lift. We dropped the tank again and put in the steel tubing like it sez to. Well after putting a 1/4 tank in, and the usual priming runs, the fuel line cleared of air bubbles completely and the Espar took off with no problems whatsoever.



So if you did what I suggested before and tapped into that aux nipple--and if you can't run it with less than half of a tank--there's your reason. I don't know why the aux fuel line allows air, but it does. If anyone can explain that, I'd like to know why.



Matt

 

[Swisznie]

Matt,



Had the same scenario/problem with mine (01/3500). The dealer removed the pump from the Espar and reinstalled it by the fuel tank (apparently thats the way they do it on the big rigs). Working ok so far.

 

[Wheaties]

Swisznie,



That's very interesting. Do you know whether the sending tube Espar supplies was installed in the sending unit, or if they did something else?



Matt

 

[Swisznie]

Matt ,

Am not quite sure what you mean by 'the sending tube' (I do think I know what you are refering to).

My unit is a D5 not a D4 - the pump configuration should be the same; the technician removed the copper tube( hooked up to the fuel pump) an cut off the end with the flat section. He reinstalled it to to rubber hose that went originally to the fuel pump.

He rerouted the 2 elecrtrical connections to the outside of the unit.

The pump was installed using on Espar fuel pump bracket (made enitirelly of rubber)- I think this will prevent any damage to the pump due to vibrations.



He used the original pick up in the tank - he reduced the id of the pickup hole right at the tank (as opposed to at the pump).







Stan

 

[Wheaties]

Stan,



This is making more sense now. If you order the D4 with the Ram kit, you get just about everything you need to do an install, including wiring harness, timer, coolant hoses, tie wraps, the hole ball of wax. You also get an assembly that fits in the fuel tank sending unit, essentially a steel plug with a rubber grommet around it and a pair of steel tubes through it. This would normally go in an auxiliary plug built into the sending unit. Unfortunately, DC has saved money and taken away the hole (holes are expensive after all), so you now have to drill the sending unit with a hole saw (1-9/16") in order to get it back.



You probably don't get what I am calling the sending tube with the D5, or do you? I also see that some models, the pump is a separate unit and can be installed as you describe.



Matt

 

[Swisznie]

Matt,



When I looked at installing an Espar on my truck the price for the d4 dodge kit was 50% more (installed) than a d5. Not only that, the dealer didn't realy want to do it - they think it was a bad decission to create the kit ( something it taking 4 hours to replace the glo-plug).



The d5 uses the same pickup configuration as most Espars, my dealer simply tried to save on time by not dropping the tank. Knowing what I know at the present I would insist on using the factory pickup, it would have saved me 3 trips and 15+ hours at the garage over and above what was required.



I noticed (once) that my unit with the new setup took 2 tries before it got going, I hope that this will not be a regular occurance.



Stan

 

[BRobertson]

The Espar is one of the top 2 or 3 best toys I've installed on my truck!!

Bob

 

[Peter Campbell]

Looked for my threads on the espar install. Way back machine here. I Bought the unit at the TDR rally in Columbus IN. and put it in right after I got back. So I have had it for 3 winters now- Definitely worth the price and the PITA install. Having co-workers asking if it is going to take off may be a pain. But the warm cab, and the temp guage comiong off the peg within a mile is worth it. As of now this thread has better installation details than I can remember. This was a top 3 mod to the truck. Three years later no regrets. Good product.