Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Euro Headlights

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 47re upgrades?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks for the numbers. Didn't mean to strike a nerve though... I was just trying some rhetorical clarification...



Thank you for the numbers as I hadn't even thought about them until this thread, I didn't expect it to be a wide-spread problem.
 
When I talk about the "Euro" style headlights, I'm talking about a style of headlight assembly where one can see through the glass clearly, seeing the bulb with no problem. Look at the factory light assemby on the older trucks (like my '97) and you will see what I'm talking about... you can't clearly see the bulb.



I found an aftermarket set of what was advertised as "euro" style light assemblies on eBay, bought them & installed them with great results. The ones I bought are a direct bolt-in replacement, no cutting or wire modifications required. While I had the lights apart, I replaced the bulbs with 100/85's instead of the standard 65/45's. My new lights are one bulb assemblies, not 2 bulbs like some others have & are talking about.
 
J Shocik said:
When I talk about the "Euro" style headlights, I'm talking about a style of headlight assembly where one can see through the glass clearly, seeing the bulb with no problem. Look at the factory light assemby on the older trucks (like my '97) and you will see what I'm talking about... you can't clearly see the bulb.



I found an aftermarket set of what was advertised as "euro" style light assemblies on eBay, bought them & installed them with great results. The ones I bought are a direct bolt-in replacement, no cutting or wire modifications required. While I had the lights apart, I replaced the bulbs with 100/85's instead of the standard 65/45's. My new lights are one bulb assemblies, not 2 bulbs like some others have & are talking about.



There are undoubted more than one type of upgraded lights available, both front and rear - and the greatest difference is probably related to whether they are a direct plug-in replacement or not - all the ones I commonly see on Ebay are the clear lens type, but some use the same bulb layout as the OEM's, other have an added bulb as mine do.



Potential buyers need to be aware that the increased bulb types will require some wiring adaptation to work properly, and should also include a wiring switchover to relay control of power to the bulbs if headlight switch failure due to increase load is to be avoided.



For that matter, even just upgrading to a higher wattage regular bulb would also benefit from the same mod - the panel area surrounding my light switch is MUCH cooler after modding my setup for relay control...
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
Changing WHERE the actual, physical switch is located in the circuit does NOT in any way change the LOAD on the circuit or switch - the amperage is exactly the same whether you switch the positive, OR negative lead...



Well it may not change the load the wiring has to carry, switching the ground does not Load the headlight switch like the older trucks. Burning out switches went away when they changed to the set up. I thought you where wanting to get the load off the switch to prevent burning it up.



JR2
 
I did mine with the "depot" lights. A HUGE improvement over the factory fluted lenzes.

I also wired mine so that ALL lights are on at once.

On low beam I have 4 bulbs on, hi beam I have all 4 on, but 8 filiments are burning on hi. :D
 
Patriot: Lense Dis-coloration?

Patriot: Thomas reported above some dis-coloration on the inboard bulb when running 8 filaments on high. Do you see any and how long have you been running this way. I am considering installing a switch so I can control the inboard low filaments. I figure during the cold winter months I can get by with all filaments and then swith off the inboard bulb in the summer?
 
Actually the bulbs were fine—the problem was with the reflectors.

Here is the driver-side 9004. the discoloring was minor;the bubbling was not.


Click for a larger view.
-




The passenger-side 9004 had no bubbling but did have a very pale brown coloring that faded out less than half an inch from the base of the bulb. The passenger-side lamp has been replaced. Here is a look at an undamaged reflector.


Click for a larger view.
-
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JR2 said:
Well it may not change the load the wiring has to carry, switching the ground does not Load the headlight switch like the older trucks. Burning out switches went away when they changed to the set up. I thought you where wanting to get the load off the switch to prevent burning it up.



JR2



DC also changed the light switch design on later trucks - it's not worth a lot of discussion, but the fact - and electrical physics still applies - the EXACT SAME amount of current is switched and runs thru the switch contacts, regardless of WHERE the switch is installed in the circuit... ;)



The reason I stick with this, is to head off some member who thinks he can safely install some honkin' hi-power lights or other devices to be controlled by the factory switches - as long as he just switches the negative lead - WRONG! ;)



The only potential for SOME circuit issues when switching negative leads applies to SOME inductive devices, motors, transformers, etc. , where negative lead switching MIGHT reduce the tendency for sparking/arcing at the switch contacts as the switch is turned on/off - but our lights are RESISTIVE loads, and that benefit is pretty much non-existent, and the primary issue is switch failure from excessive constant current draw, rather than contact arcing.
 
Last edited:
I've been running them like this for 4+ years and I havent had any problems.

I live in NJ, and I dont get a lot of chances to run them on hi beam for long lengths of time. :{
 
The patriot said:
I've been running them like this for 4+ years and I havent had any problems.

I live in NJ, and I dont get a lot of chances to run them on hi beam for long lengths of time. :{



I don't run much at night either - but out here in eastern Oregon deer and elk country, you BETTER have good lights unless you want one in your lap! :-laf
 
Gary, So did these "Euro" lights require any different wiring or not? When this thread started it appeared you did not have to do it...
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
I don't run much at night either - but out here in eastern Oregon deer and elk country, you BETTER have good lights unless you want one in your lap! :-laf



I run about 1/2 at night. Problem here is mexicans on bicycles on VERY skinny roads. :{
 
jeepit said:
Gary, So did these "Euro" lights require any different wiring or not? When this thread started it appeared you did not have to do it...



Indeed, my new lights use 2 bulbs instead of the single bulb OEM - and what with that fact plus the added current draw, all my headlight wiring was changed and beefed up - the OEM harness TO the new lights is used only to power/control the relays that actually power the headlights thru heavy power leads directly to the battery.
 
SO... ... "Euro" headlights are equivalent to the Early model (pre 99) sport headlights in the fact that they have only one bulb?



I know for a fact that the dual bulb 99 and up headlights require the fender to be cut for the extra bulb clearance on most 2nd gens.



I bought the brite box from Genos that adapts the single bulb into the sport config. for about $150. Had to call to get it as they didn't have a listing.





Has anyone else had the rubber gasket crack and fall away from the DEPO lights? Mine have been on one year and the rubber is trash already.
I had to replace these gaskets also after about a year w/new oem. the Depot's are shamefully the best we can easily get ahold of for simple oem replacement. They just cost about twice as much as they should. The side marker lamps are also very fragile. It'd be nice if someone sold the original Wagner parts at a realistic price.
 
A friend with a '98 like mine put in a set of projectors like the ones picture above. I have the sport headlight conversion. Between the 2, I prefer my sport lights. Much broader lighting of the road without sacrificing distance. And I choose to wire up switches for some of the other filaments, which gives me even more lighting and choices as to which ones to use when.



-Jay
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top