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Ever broke your motor mount bolts

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Which aftermarket tach?

Squeeky in Serpentine belt area

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I have had this happen twice just wondering if any one else has. Hopefully the grade eights will last this time. And some people think the Ferd's or Chevy's have tourque yeah right!!!!!!!



Stomp
 
Never broke anything, but I've also read up on how to properly use the "excess" torque (is 600 lb-ft really enough? Nah). I was doing something under the hood the other day, and was blipping the throttle with the shaft on the bracket. Engine was rocking 4" to the side at no load. THought something might be loose, so I shut her down, and checked everything, and all was tight as I could get it. Just a lottta torque, that's all. I laugh when i hear some kid bragging about almost 400 ft-lbs torque in his 350. DOnt have the heart to tell him most 1st Gens topped 500 from the factory, and were rated for 400.



Daniel
 
I have had this happen twice just wondering if any one else has

Possible solutions:

1) Stop driving CTD (not)

2) Install a throttle limiter (not)

3) De tune (no way)

4) Remove Cummins and install a wimpy PSD or Dpad (no freakin' way)

5) Install higher grade bolts (yup, this should work)

6) Carry spare motor mount bolts (yup, I would)
 
Thanx for the info hopefully the grade eights will hold this time or I might have to chain the beast down.



Stomp
 
Stomp -



Which motor mount bolts broke - one of the two longitudinal 4 1/4" bolts that parallell the block or one of the four bolts that bolt the bracket into the engine block?



Thanks!
 
Hunter4x4



I sheered both of the bolts that run paralell with the block. Not once, but twice. All of the ones holding the bracket on are fine.



Stomp
 
just broke drivers side paralell bolt need to know the size so i can replace it



is it ... .



12 x 1. 75 x 160mm grade 8 bolts,



or is that just for 24V



thanks



DM
 
Broken Mount bolts

There was some discussion on this topic a while back. I think some have installed two mounts on the drivers side. Seems like there was even a picture of one that was modified. The drivers side takes the shear when the Cummins tightens up. The other side is in compression and seldom gives trouble. Also seem to remember one that had been modified to the second gen mount.



You could in fact do something with a chain that would limit the extent of rotation. It will be noisy when the chain tensions and you better attach both ends to something really solid. I did that on a 70 model Ford gasser that kept breaking the left side mount. But Ford later came out with a mount that would not seperate.



James
 
Your sheering the bolts? I had a friend with a first gin that used to break the brackets all the time… he also burned up about 6 turbo’s in the last year… the truck is now parked (not running) looking for someone to rebuild it…. Nothing last with this guy driving it. But anyway looks like y’all are having different troubles….
 
Jeremy,



Post the size of those bolts please! I think I'd like to get a couple and throw in the tool box. The problem is probably worse with the manual trannys as the auto tend to be a little softer on the initial takeoff. ;) :-laf
 
... broke the bolts..... that's sweet in a dimented sort of way :-laf. Kinda makes ya wonder what the yoke bolts are made of on the driveshafts, eh? Probably Unobtainium.

Torque = Good.

Lots of Torque = Better.

Breaking motor mount bolts because your Cummins makes more torque than a locomotive = You da Man Brother :cool:

- Max
 
No broken bolts,but I broke the casting on the block for the mount bolts and more recently I tore the drivers side bracket off the frame. Nothing like the feel of torque hooking up through big tires and a manual transmission :D



Bob
 
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