exhaust and oil ?s

[NLeach]

I am going to go with the magnaflow system,so I am undecided as to single or duals?My other ? is which oil use?I know its been asked but just need a quick couple of suggetions. I have used delo,rotella syn,mobil in my ford but see the valvoline cummins rated one. Which one would be the best?

 

[DrDiesel]

It`s all personal preference. I use and have used the Valvoline Premium Blue in all my trucks. I like it and don`t give a crap about synth. in my Diesel.

I feel synth. is a waste of money if used in this commercial grade Diesel Engine.

Change it every 5K and never have had any problems. 85K on my 96, 25K on my 03 and now 12K on my 2006. That`s my opinion of oils.

15-40 VPB is $9. 90 a gallon, filter is $10. 00

It costs me $40 bucks every 5K

 

[jeffshafer]

It`s all personal preference. I use and have used the Valvoline Premium Blue in all my trucks. I like it and don`t give a crap about synth. in my Diesel.

I feel synth. is a waste of money if used in this commercial grade Diesel Engine.

Change it every 5K and never have had any problems. 85K on my 96, 25K on my 03 and now 12K on my 2006. That`s my opinion of oils.

15-40 VPB is $9. 90 a gallon, filter is $10. 00

It costs me $40 bucks every 5K

^^^^^^^^^ this man speaks the truth- hold the very same opinion about synth-oils

 

[AMassaro]

I use Valvoline PremBlue Synthetic. I agree that synthetic is probably NOT necessary BUT... . If you live in a cold climate, there is NO arguing that synthetics flow better when cold that regular oil and that is a huge benefit. You guys in Kali don't have that problem...

 

[d90boy]

Oil is religion, period. I personally like synthetics but these engines will outlast the truck on conventional oil. I think where people fall short is the filter, use Fleetguard. Buy a case and be done with it. For dino oil I like Delo the best, for synthetic, i like Redline and Schaeffer's 9000 or the semi-syn 7000.

 

[jltcasper3]

shell rotella t 15w-40

 

[jwduke]

Mobil Delvac & Fleetguard Stratapore here.

 

[macdaddy]

It`s all personal preference. I use and have used the Valvoline Premium Blue in all my trucks. I like it and don`t give a crap about synth. in my Diesel.

I feel synth. is a waste of money if used in this commercial grade Diesel Engine.

Change it every 5K and never have had any problems. 85K on my 96, 25K on my 03 and now 12K on my 2006. That`s my opinion of oils.

15-40 VPB is $9. 90 a gallon, filter is $10. 00

It costs me $40 bucks every 5K

I thought the same thing until I drained the Royal Purple out hot.



It was amazingly viscous in spite of the hot temperature.



Delo never drained like that.



Mac

 

[betterthanstock]

To each his own. My truck takes 7-10 miles to warm up on the coolant guage. I am sure the oil takes even longer to really reach 200 degrees.

AT 200 deg F there is no difference between synt. and mineral, but below, the synthetic will save you maybe a dime's worth of fuel every cold start (assuming you use 5W-40, not 15W-40).

In the summer, I can safely shut down at 400 deg EGT, and synthetic will not cook in the turbo bearings. Another dime saved in idling time. It just about pays for itself, and keeps the engine cleaner and longer lasting. Long haul truckers, are different, they hardly ever run a cold engine, and they hardly ever shut it down either. So for them it makes no difference.

 

[amsoilman]

There are many benefits for using a quality Synthetic oil other than just the cold climates.



Boiled down to basics, the performance of an engine oil refers to three functions: 1) protecting engine parts against wear, 2) transferring heat, and 3) protecting against harmful deposits.



There are three ways to protect against engine wear. One is to physically separate two moving parts (the crankshaft and the main bearings, for example) with a film of oil. The right oil viscosity offers protection here. A second way to protect against wear is to chemically modify metal surfaces so that, if two parts come in contact (rocker arm and crosshead, for example), wear is minimized. Antiwear additives in the oil play the lead here. The third way is to neutralize corrosive combustion by-products with detergent additives. Corrosion can destroy mating surfaces and thus create wear.



Heat transfer is another essential function of crankcase oil. Pistons, exposed to the brutal temperatures of combustion, need more cooling than can be provided by the coolant that's circulating in the water jacket. Unless their undersides are sprayed with oil, they melt. The heat resistant quality of the base oil and antioxidant additives protect oil from deteriorating because of this heat.



As for engine deposits, they can result from combustion by-products, contaminants and breakdown of the oil as it carries away heat. Deposits, such as carbon build-up in piston ring grooves, can destroy an engine's performance. Base oil, as well as detergents and dispersants, fight deposit formation and help neutralize harmful by-products of both combustion and oxidation.



The bototm line is True Synthetics handle all of the above much better than a petrolium oil.





Wayne

amsoilman

 

[TCDiesel]

customer drops vehicle off night prior to Service,Now at -20 ,In my office I can here which one's have Synthetics and the one's that don't. In sub -0 temps the the Synthetics make a huge different, its the extremes that Synthetics are superior.

 

[Buffalo]

NLeach,



If you have one of the newer trucks, you may have a 4" exhaust system, already. In that case, you could just swap out the muffler for a Magnaflow. Check with your local muffler shops. Should be much cheaper.



Regarding your oil questions, why not try out 'bob is the oil guy.com'. It's a lubrication-related website with loads of great information. After much reading, I decided on Chevron Delo-400, 15X40 due to the addition of Moly & Boron into their additive package. It makes for a robust, easily available motor oil.



My take on the synthetics is that they are better. However, to get the most bang for your buck, it seems to me that if you do A LOT of driving & towing, such as commercial delivery of trailers, hotshotting, etc. , the use of synthetics in conjunction with bypass oil filtration will give you the most benefit. It will allow you to take advantage of extended oil drain intervals so, you won't be changing your oil so frequently while using state of the art lubrication. The convenience, alone, would probably warrant the extra costs of the synthetic oil & the bypass filtration unit.



I recently purchased an Oilguard Bypass Filtration Kit & 3-1/2 gals. of Schaeffer's 9000 (5X40) synthetic motor oil. Due to the busyness of the Holidays, I have not installed either, yet. Actually, for me, I think this is overkill. I live in a desert climate with very few cold start situations & I don't tow or haul commercially. My decision was based on not wanting to go thru life without owning one bypass filtration system & trying synthetic oil, moreso than actual need. In the future, I would like to take an RV trip, with my trailer, to Alaska (from AZ. ). With fresh synthetic & a bypass filter, I may be able to do that without the inconvenience of having to change oil, on the trip.



Good Luck with your decisions.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[d90boy]

Regarding your oil questions, why not try out 'bob is the oil guy.com'. It's a lubrication-related website with loads of great information. After much reading, I decided on Chevron Delo-400, 15X40 due to the addition of Moly & Boron into their additive package. It makes for a robust, easily available motor oil.



I recently purchased an Oilguard Bypass Filtration Kit & 3-1/2 gals. of Schaeffer's 9000 (5X40) synthetic motor oil.

I read BITOG as well and based my preferences on that info. Did you look at the gear lube comparison between Amsoil and Schaeffer's #267 as well as the additive experiment? Makes that Lucas stuff look pretty bad.