Exhaust Brake Failure

[cowdoc]

I have a 2008 six speed with 190,00 miles. The turbo was replaced under warranty at 90,000 miles and the EGR/DPF removed shortly after. All was well until last week a whistle/squeal developed when the exhaust brake engaged. I visually inspected the exhaust manifold for any apparent cracks or gasket failures but didn't dig any deeper. Today I start the truck and the exhaust brake is not there. The truck runs fine and has normal power but the brake will not engage. 100 miles into the day the engine light came on and I got codes P2262 and P0153.

I had the P2262 before the turbo was replaced under warranty but then the brake would stick on and would not disengage. This time it will not engage at all. It seemed to work fine yesterday. Could I be lucky enough that today I have a sensor issue with the actuator or should I be shopping for a new turbo? If I were to remove the turbo where is a good shop to rebuild it? If the squeal sound is a cracked exhaust manifold would I see black soot at the location?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[cowdoc]

Another piece of the puzzle is that I have had the code P0049 about once a month for the past 6 months. The code would clear on its own. This is an overspeed code for the turbo. Is there a way to check the turbo speed sensor and if the sensor failed would the brake function of the turbo stop? I can't figure how the turbo could spin too fast.

 

[cerberusiam]

When the variable collar shuts dow too far you will turbo over speed. Sound slike either the collar is sticking or the position motor is bad. Have you tried cleaning the turbo to see if that fixes it?

 

[sag2]

When you lose the DPF a significant amount of back pressure is lost making it much easier to over speed the turbo.

 

[cowdoc]

Today the e-brake worked but didn't seem as strong as it should be. Looks like the turbo is sticking. Drove 200 miles with no engine light on. I always drive with the e-brake on but this winter the truck had to idle a lot. I can set the idle at 1600 rpm and it will keep engine temp even when it's -30F outside. There are times when the truck will idle for an hour or so but it is still driven 200-300 miles daily. I probably murdered the turbo.

The turbo on the truck (the second one) has the cleaning plug on it. I have read the TSB on cleaning but am wondering how it is done without the starscan to move the vanes. Also, I'm guessing I can make the flexible pipe to attach to the cleaning port a lot cheaper than the $400 ones that I've seen advertised.

Thanks for your help

 

[CM_Guest]

If it idled in the cold a lot that's your cause. And that's one of the negative side effects of "deleting" factory equipment. Re-gen cycles clean the ENTIRE exhaust system, including the turbo, not just the DPF. And most engines with EGR and VGT have a "cleaning" cycle at key on or key off to cycle the turbo vanes through their full travel to help keep the soot scraped or knocked off. If you take your truck out occasionally and pull the heck out of it or just go do little "hot-rodding" that will help a bunch in keeping things clean. But idling for even 10 minutes in the cold can start plugging things up. And Cummins Dodges are VERY hard to keep at REAL operating temps. Especially with no load on the truck. Even when the temp gauge says it's "warm". That's just the coolant right there next to the temp sender where it's going to be the warmest. 200-300 miles of light load in the winter can put as much soot in it as an hour of idling.

 

[DonFitzwater]

My 2010 idles for hours and hours when its -temps here in AK and I've not even had a minor hiccup. I use a winter front and ramp up to 1500 rpm. I think sag may be on to something with the dpf comment.

 

[CM_Guest]

My 2010 idles for hours and hours when its -temps here in AK and I've not even had a minor hiccup. I use a winter front and ramp up to 1500 rpm. I think sag may be on to something with the dpf comment.

Your truck stays warm, or at least warm enough, because you have a winterfront and you're "idling" the engine at least twice as fast as normal low idle. And the ECU can adjust timing and pilot injection to make more heat and keep the engine warmer. DPFs are an exhaust restriction, but there are lots of DPF-delete truck out there that aren't setting turbo overspeed codes. A turbo is sized to the engine so that there is basically no possible way that the engine can spin the turbocharger fast enough for it to fail even at full fuel and peak torque overload speed. And you won't get anywhere near THAT situation without putting the engine on an engine dyno. Deleting the EGR is causing the sooting and the sticky VGT. The EGR system takes hot exhaust gas, cools it and feeds it back into the intake. The exhaust gas going into the intake and exhaust heat going into the cooling system increase coolant temps. The turbo overspeed code does not mean the turbo is spinning fast enough to fail. It means the turbo is spinning faster than the ECU wants it to spin at that throttle position and engine load. When the ECU tries to reduce turbo speed but the VGT actuator can't do it fast enough or far enough, the ECU throws the code. The actual speed is over the desired speed. I'm a diesel technician. I do a lot of work with HPCR engines. And the ones I work on (John Deere) let me go in with a laptop and monitor hundreds of data points and I can see all that data in real-time as I operate or dyno a tractor. You can trust me on this. I am a professional.

 

[DonFitzwater]

"You can trust me on this. I am a professional".......................................Same thing the Powerstroke mechanic at the Ford dealership told me when talking about my 6.7 stroke with a rod hanging out of the oil pan..................:-laf

Just busting your balls. I understand that there are lots of deleted trucks out there running well, however, I'm of the opinion that there are a lot more stock, emissions system intact trucks out there that are running better. Either way, I hope the OP keeps up on this thread until a resolution is reached.........good info on this site and I read daily.

 

[CM_Guest]

I wasn't offended, lol. There was actually a little humor intended with the "I'm a professional" comment but I should have smileyed it

 

[DonFitzwater]

Ya I figured as much!

 

[mwilson]

I wasn't offended, lol. There was actually a little humor intended with the "I'm a professional" comment but I should have smileyed it

I'm waiting for "I could get a lot more done if the damn parts department would step it up!", then it would prove that he is indeed a top tech.....:-laf

Mike.

 

[cowdoc]

So here's where I'm at. Do I spend $450 on the cleaning kit or $1200 for the turbo. The first time I went through this the dealer cleaned the turbo per the TSB. That lasted for about 2000 miles before the turbo was replaced under warranty. Has anyone had any long term success with the cleaning procedure?

I think the best plan is a new turbo and two piece exhaust manifold. My only hope is that the turbo is stuck all the way open and I don't blow the head gasket before I can get the new parts in. Got to keep working.

Deleting the EGR/DPF increased my mileage from 14-16 mpg to 22-24 mpg. I would not go back. The first turbo failed with the EGR in place.

 

[Jim W]

I had my turbo cleaned Dec, 08 at 13,200 miles, by the dealer after my fourth CEL. I then deleted in Aug-09 at 21,600 miles using a Smarty S67. I use the exhaust brake continuously and it is turn on every time the engine is started. I have been trouble free and the turbo and exhaust brake have worked great since then. I now have 71,000 miles on my truck.

So I would suggest that you get the turbo cleaned and then operate the exhaust brake continuously and see what happens.

Just my $0.02.
Jim W.

 

[CM_Guest]

No, you misunderstood me. I said I'm a DIESEL mechanic. Not a POWERSTROKE mechanic, lol.

 

[CM_Guest]

I don't know what kind of access there is to the VGT actuator on those but you might try moving it by hand through it's stroke. You'll probably have better luck with it good and hot when you try that, but then it's going to be a little challenging to have your hands around there. I THINK the Cummins VGT actuators are probably like the ones Deere uses. When the engine is off you can grab the linkage and move it back and forth and it won't hurt the actuator. At least that way you can verify it's position. Maybe you can get the vanes in the low-speed position and disconnect the actuator and just WIRE it in position if nothing else. But I think if you can get a hand on it and get it moving it MIGHT go ahead and work.

 

[cowdoc]

I tried to fix the problem by having the turbo cleaned. No luck. I now have a re-manufactured turbo sitting on the shop floor waiting for this weekend. I plan on removing the turbo with the exhaust manifold as I can now see a soot mark around the far back exhaust manifold gasket and can replace the all the gaskets at once.

When I go to start the truck with the new turbo installed I want to pump oil through the turbo without the engine firing. How can I disable the engine so it will only crank? This was easy on my '93 by taking the wire off the shut off solenoid. Not so sure how to get this done on the '08. Hoping someone knows an easy fuse to pull or something to let me crank it over.

Thanks

 

[DonFitzwater]

Pull the fuse for the fuel pump

 

[CM_Guest]

I tried to fix the problem by having the turbo cleaned. No luck. I now have a re-manufactured turbo sitting on the shop floor waiting for this weekend. I plan on removing the turbo with the exhaust manifold as I can now see a soot mark around the far back exhaust manifold gasket and can replace the all the gaskets at once.

When I go to start the truck with the new turbo installed I want to pump oil through the turbo without the engine firing. How can I disable the engine so it will only crank? This was easy on my '93 by taking the wire off the shut off solenoid. Not so sure how to get this done on the '08. Hoping someone knows an easy fuse to pull or something to let me crank it over.

Thanks

Just fill the turbo oil inlet with clean engine oil, spin the shaft several times and that will be plenty of initial lubrication.

 

[jhenderson]

These trucks will run without the fuel pump