Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Exhaust Brake on Automatic

[gbarnes]

I have a 2002 Ram Turbo Diesel with the 47RE automatic transmission. I'm considering having an exhaust brake installed before taking a trip out west (Rockies). I'll be pulling a 31 foot 5th wheel (about 12K lbs. ). I'm leaning toward the US Gear D-Celerator Super Duty Model because, according to their literature, the inside diameter is the largest in the industry and does not restrict engine performance when the brake is not in use. I would appreciate hearing from members who have exhaust brakes on automatics, including info on torque converter lock-up systems. Thanks.



G. Barnes

 

[jtwcummins]

I have the Banks Ebrake with the controller. It has been installed for 3 plus years and I almost never turn it off. The controller is important because it controls a vac motor that opens the throttle controlled valve on the 47re applying full fluid flow in the auto and locks the TC. Without this heat will build fast due to slip in the trans. I have never seen the brake cause the trans fluid temp to go up. Without lockup the brake is useless

 

[Fishin Guide]

gbarnes,



call Bill K at DTT today! He'll give you the skinny on automatics and exhaust brakes.



Dave

 

[ralbert]

I have a us gear 3 1/2 " brake on my 3500. I first went with gauges so I could monitor the trainy temp. Went over the rockies in 2003 and the brake worked great. I had taken my truck camper to Alaska so I was heavey and also with only two sets of brakes. Never had a temp problem. 175 was the highist it got. Good luck. Rob I also had a double deep trainy pan with the temp pickup in it.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I've got a US Gear D-Cel, I've had it for about 2 years and been all over the states with it. It works great. I've also got the 60# valve springs and transmission lock-up.

 

[rweis]

Call XXX automatic transmission rebuilders.



Ya GOTTA have a way to lock up the transmission for an E brake to work.



I have the USG DCelerator air oprerated 4" body and LOVE it. I have an air compressor in the bed and just pump it up about every 3 or 4 days (4 gallon). You put 60 psi on the ram and the ram WILL close the butterfly, period. I did not like the idea of an electric solenoid down with the road grime. Very HEAVY DUTY construction. Easy to install yourself. I liked the bypass feature also.



I DID NOT LIKE the gas pedal microswitch. I could not keep it adjusted right. I put mine on a on / off switch in the knee panel. I did not like the idea that the microswitch would be closed at a stop light ie E brake on, when I only wanted the Ebrake on comming up to the light. With a switch I turn the unit on and flip the switch when I want the butterfly closed.



I would definitely call XXX or XXX or XXX transmission rebuilders and ask them FIRST so you know what you need for the auto transmission.



Bob Weis

 

[Loren]

G. Barnes,



Two issues:

First, I recommend that you install some means to lock your torque converter before you install an exhaust brake. My old '95 truck blew the transmission lines off their (plastic) fittings twice due to fluid temperature. It was less than a year after that before the transmission needed a rebuild.



Second, I have owned a US Gear exhaust brake since about 1996. I have had a few issues regarding reliability with it, but I think I now finally know how to keep it working.



The solenoid has never given me any trouble, even down in the mud and heat. The first problem I had was a failure of the pull-coil relay. It was an inexpensive part, but difficult to figure out. The brake would cycle on and off when it was engaged. The pull-coil relay had stuck closed, and the self-resetting circuit breaker was cycling.



A couple of years ago, I required a new controller (outside of warranty). This was an expensive part, and US Gear did not offer to give me a break on the price. In this case the exhaust brake was not closing properly when engaged. It's possible that this may have been related to sticky bushings (see next paragraph. )



The more recent problems have been mechanical, primarily with sticky bushings at the butterfly valve. I suggest taking the butterfly valve out when the unit is new so you will know how to do it. It's a 15 minute job, even if you've never done it before.



I recently had to take mine apart to clean and polish the bushing surfaces and to apply some anti-seize on the moving parts. The brake now works better than when it was new.



US Gear's technical help is first-rate. During working hours, you will get a real person fairly quickly, and he will know what he is talking about. Their service for parts is also great. Prices are sometimes a bit high, but the parts are shipped right away.



All in all, I'd buy another one, knowing what I know now about them. If you get one, keep those bushings lubed.



Loren

 

[nutter3]

I have the pacbrake and a ATS triple lock converter and a Commander. It has worked well for 1. 5 years and 27,000 miles. Yesterday however, my transmission was infected with no-go syndrome (no forward, no reverse). I dont know what the diagnosis is yet, should know in a day or two. Maybe the exhaust brake did it, maybe the extra horsepower and heavy foot did it. Have a new triple lock and billet input shaft ordered to go in the rebuilt transmission.

 

[OTRPU]

I have the PacBrake and an ATS Triple Lock Converter and a Commander. It worked well till it broke. They put in another one and it broke the input shaft. I paid them to put in a solid billit input shaft and it took out the flex plate, wadded, leaned on the crank and took out the thrust bearing which did in the crank. I paid to have the solinoids replaced in Indiana, 1,125 miles later ATS replaced all three solinoids in Wheat Ridge, CO. The TransCommander wouldn't downshift, tore the drivetrain outta the truck three or four times. Three yokes, a few sets of universal bearings and a set of side bearings in the Dana 80 later I'm good to go. They finally fixed the Commander so it would downshift. Now something else is eating itself up, twice the pan has been full of metal and friction material. Headed West with a load, things went to heck, had to turn around and go back to Angola. Pan had alot of metal and friction material, tech said truck wouldn't hardly pull out of slot in reverse to pull into bay. Suggest not running an exhaust brake without doing all three shafts. Day before yesterday I had it pulled out and replaced with a BD. I gotta go to work and it hasn't been a good experience for me unless they will rebuild or replace that transmission.



Cheers,

Steve J

 

[KTobin]

I run a BD brake with controller and Pressureloc to increase fluid pressure in lock up. Nice combo and it has worked very well for me. I would suggest a billeted input shaft for peace of mind. I run with stock input shaft and it makes me uneasy. When I can afford a full DTT, I'll address it then.