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Exhaust Brakes

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Sorry if there has already been a lot of discussion about this, but I searched the archives and didn't find much.



I would like to get an exhaust brake for my truck. I know cummins recommends Jacobs, but is there a particular exhaust brake that is considered "best" or "most popular" for our trucks?



Thanks.
 
In spite of what you may hear whichever exhaust brake you choose go with the 60lb exhaust springs. They will prevent valve float and will give better retarding with your exhaust brake.



With that being said I have run a BD exhaust brake for 2 1/2 years and love it. I haven't had a front rotor warp since I installed the brake and so far have doubled my service brake life. I use it with or without my trailer especially coming off freeways.



Bob
 
What does everyone think about exhaust brakes on automatics? Does anyone have one? I'm really getting tired of my rotors warping and i would like to try one of these. I know on the Cummins website it says that they do not suggest putting one on an automatic transmission.



Chris
 
Talking about exhaust brakes...



My teacher is a smart man, but he does say stuff I don't agree with. He claims that exhaust brakes causes back pressure to press on the piston rings, thus accelerating wear? Is this true?

Or would this only apply to OTR trucks?





Steve
 
Steve,



Interesting concept on the exhaust brake, but, my response would be 'whats the difference between backpressure on the exhaust stroke and compression stroke'? The rings are meant to seal with pressure from the top side and I have a hard time seeing the difference between the two. What he could have meant is the extra wear created by pressure on the exhaust stroke would wear the rings more. However, the exhaust brake is not used very much in relationship to total running time and there is always back pressure on an exhaust stroke anyway. Run this back at you teacher and see what the response is.



Exhaust brakes on an auto is about the only way to get some descent braking power but get ready for sticker shock. The first thing is toss the early transmissions and get a 95 to early 96 auto and start building. You must have a lockup trans to make it work and if you are towing it had better be a good lockup system. Add in the electronics and pressure lock to control things on decel and you will have a good setup. The two issues are cost and trans life. Cost will probably run close to what the first gen trucks are selling for. The life of the trans is what is a big variable. Use, towing weight, and trans setup will all contribute and that is impossible to calculate across all vehicles.
 
dim view on BOMBing. Claims it kills your towing ability



Oh yea... more HP/torque is bad for towing. I like that one.
 
The only way I can see it killing your towing ability is when you start melting stuff at 1600+ deg :eek: The only "diesel" he has is a 6. 2, and he tells me it runs good PHULLLLEEEZZZZE:rolleyes:









Steve
 
He owns a good 6. 2. Nuff said! Hopless case. :rolleyes:



Chase him around the parking lot with the CTD and make a believer outta him. :D :D :D
 
This is another long short story, but put in a nut shell it goes like this. My brother is a GM guy. Says the D Max is the greatest and make way more torque than a 6 cylinder could ever hope to and the CTD can't get out of it's own way.



I can't get him to tell me why ag tractors/OTR trucks don't use the vee engine arrangement:D



Scott



Oh, by the way, accordingly, a slow running engine won't make near the torque/HP as one which screams :confused: :confused: :confused: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
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