Exhaust,Injectors, Turbo Combo

[MMoyle]

Hi All,



I have been looking through the threads on TDR to find out the best upgrade combo for my application. I have a 1993 4x4 Auto that I use primarily for long distance trips and plan soon to trailer a race car to the local and surrounding tracks. I don't want to *BOMB* the truck, but rather increase the power and make it more efficient. My truck right now is all stock (except for the ASA intake - Thanks Sam!). In your opinion what option is best?:



Option 1

4" exhaust w a 3 or 3. 5 inch downpipe

Bosch 190 injectors

HX35 Upgrade w/ 16cm housing

Mild pump tweaks



Option 2

Keep stock exhaust and remove the muffler

Bosch 190 injectors

Keep stock turbo but upgrade to 16cm housing

Mild pump tweaks



Option 3

Keep stock exhaust and remove the muffler

Stock injectors (clean + Pressure tested)

Keep stock turbo but upgrade to 16cm housing

Mild pump tweaks



Regardless of what option I take, I plan on upgrading the transmission with either a DTT 89% converter or to a 47RH lockup (haven't decided yet).



What option would be best for the most efficient operation? Great towing and good MPG? Would I burn more fuel with Option 1? I would like to save some money in the process, but if option 1 is the best way to go, I'll shell out the cash. Are there any other options for my application?



Thanks

Mike

 

[bgilbert]

Injectors are gonna be the best for MPG's, so pass on the stockers. 16cm housing either way, whether you buy it and the hx35 or just the 16 now, you're not saving money either way, so buy it now or later same thing. , what did I just say lol? I like option 2. Keep stock exhaust definately, remove the muffler, install a section of 3" straight pipe. 190's for atomization- mpg's. Keep stock turbo, will save you cash this way, and for now only buy the 16cm housing. Then your pump tweaks. Air in air out.

 

["Mad Max"]

I was in same boat as my truck was virgin stock - that all changed after a trip to PDR. I did POD's, 16cm collar, and a HX-35, and NASCAR Mark tweaked the pump a bit - In two hours I doubled my hp and tq (really, it doubled), and my mpg's stayed the same on highway ~ 20 mpg. Spent $1100, put 253 hp and 630 tq to the ground on PDR's dyno, and same hw mileage. No exhaust mods. EGT's could get hot if I wanted to, but normal was around 800-900. I went with POD's because I could, and because I'm eventually doing twins, but a mid-range set of injectors would be good. It was all good.

- S

 

[JLEONARD]

Mild pump tweaks

What's up with this mild crap??? :-laf :-laf

It's an extremely short step from "mild" to "wild".

And don't you forget it!! :-laf



If it were me... .

Gages first. . pyro,boost and since you're towing with an auto... . transmission temp

4 inch exhaust (I saw pretty big bennies when I went that way)

Intake looks like it's already covered

16 cm housing with stock turbo with upgraded impeller wheel from HTT

New upgrade injectors... 190s probably a good choice

So... . are the waters muddied a bit?

Good luck and bomb on.

Jay

 

[paccool]

Is there a difference between "bombing" and "increasing power"? I think they are the same.



Knowing the path I and many others have traveled, you may as well do #1 and get it over with. I was only going to boost the power a little when I started but I keep adding things as does everyone else. :-laf



Jay is right about the gauges, get those first so you know what's going on.



Have fun with this! Oo.

 

[MMoyle]

Thanks guys... . I forgot to mention that the gauges are already on order. I should have them tomorrow. I think I am going to start with the following:



1. Install gauges (hopefully be done by late next week)

2. Remove stock muffler for 3" straight pipe (cheap way for free flowing exhaust)

3. Install Bosch 190's and tweak pump (

4. Install 16cm housing (another cheap add-on)



I'm going to install the above and gauge my performance. Test mpg, dyno, etc... I review the results and make a decision then if a 4" exhaust or HX35 is really needed. Can always add them later. This way I'm only looking at roughly $700. 00 in parts (including gauges). Much better than $1700+!



Thanks Guys for the advice

 

[formula]

If you want free-flowing exhaust, you'll want to do something about that nasty bend over the rear axle that the stock tailpipe has.



Sean

 

[dan brooks]

I'm very pleased with how mine runs. Even loaded to the "rated" GCVW (14k pounds) it has plenty of power. In August I took a trip from Tucson to the White Mountains, and if you're familiar with the Salt River Canyon and the road between Winkleman and Globe ("Seven Mile Hill") you'll know how steep some of the climbs are. The only issue I had was EGTs - I couldn't use all the power I had available. The stock exhaust pipe with a free flowing glasspack just coudn't move enough air to keep the EGTs down, so I'd strongly suggest the 4" system.



Somewhere down the road I'll probably do the 190 injectors and the PDR HX35 (when the injectors and turbo need to be replaced), but right now I'm more than satisfied with what I have.

 

[paccool]

Dan,

Is that the grade North of Globe where you cross the bridge and the climb is a long one up the other side?

 

[dan brooks]

Yep - Salt River Canyon is the steep drop/climb with the bridge at the bottom (along with the rest area). That actually wasn't the worst spot - I got stopped at the bottom of Seven Mile Hill (seven miles of constant 7-8% uphill grade) and had to get all that weight rolling... that was where the EGTs were the biggest problem and I could barely use any throttle.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Your further ahead if you hook up a modified '35 rather than just the exhaust.

The stock system IS restrictive,particularly were it goes over the rear diff... .

In general terms, the stock exhaust will handle some modest HP upgrades in terms of it's ability to deal with exhaust volume... if you're a bit hesitant, change the tail piece for now.

You can always go to a mandrell bent system a bit later if you feel the turbo/engine is being choked too much.

If you REALLY don't intend to go too far then find yourself a good shop that will put in a 3 1/2" mandrel bent system for you... that's all you'll ever need unless you get wet 'N wild... .

You can also improve your costs by using an aluminized steel sytem... it's not as resistant to corrosion as SS but it will last a long time. Just make sure to keep the tailpipe section from staying in contact with the spare tire or other things.

On my original mandrel bent system, the muffler did eventually crap out on me and the only other spot that was "bad" was the area were the piping touched the spare. It held dirt/moisture and basically "sanded/rusted" thru the piping... .



bob... .