Exhaust removal question

[Simms]

I am ready to order a DPP exhaust and install it when one thing just hit me here at work. Is there any part of the exhaust that will need to be heated with a torch to get off... . or is it flanged? I have a saw zaw for the tailpipe etc. , but I don't have access to a torch right now.

 

[Mark Craig]

Easy Removal

Simms,



Since your truck doesn't have too many miles on it the removal should be easy by seperating the individual pieces etc. No torch required, our system is a complete bolt on set up, no welding etc etc. Our directions instruct you to use a sawsall to cut the tail pipe off of the factory muffler and use WD40 to slick up the rubber hangers, that makes it real easy. Use some more WD 40 when you install our system as it uses all of the factory rubber hangers and the WD40 evaporates pretty fast, if you spray some more when you're installing it it will slip in real easy, less busted knuckles that way.



Mark

DPPI

 

[Simms]

Thanks Mark,



How about the down pipe from the turbo? Will this come off easy?

 

[GWDiesel]

RE:Simms

When I removed my 03 ex. system I found that the tail pipe was tacked to the muffler and the pipe that replaces the cat conv. on

HO motors had a rivet at each end, all on this on top where you

can't reach it! I fired up the sawzall and that was that!

good luck with your installation GWD

 

[GWDiesel]

RE:Simms

the down pipe at the turbo has a band clamp, it has a 11mm nut

to take loose and the down pipe will slide out of the bell housing

down pipe mount. IMHO it is best to start at the back and work forward to remove the ex. system. GWD

 

[Blakers]

Once you get the old one off be sure to oil it up good - inside and out - so it does not rust while in storage, or if someone else buys it.

 

[Simms]

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[d90boy]

The problem with the stock exhaust is that it uses those U-bolt exhaust clamps to join the pieces together. As a result even brand new exhausts are difficult to get apart because it's crimped together. I had to use an air hammer with a muffler cutting bit to get the joints apart. When you install your new exhaust system buy 4 or 5 of the exhaust band clamps to hold it together, not those normal exhaust clamps. The extra cost is worth it when you go to take it apart again to put on a new turbo or whatever. I used some stainless steel ones from Donaldson that have a step for 4" exhaust systems.

 

[bighammer]

Sometimes if the clamps didn't crimp the pipe too bad, you can loosen the clamp and move it a couple inches away from the joint and tighten it up. Then you have something you can hammer on. (maybe with a hard wood block or something)



I haven't seen the rivets on the pipes. Thanks for the heads up. I'm thinking about something different for my 03. I'm hoping there will be some vendors at Muncie. (maybe I should bring some tools too )

 

[Blakers]

Gently hammer around the outside of the pipe where they overlap as you have someone pull and turn the pipe back and forth. This will usually "flatten out" the creases left by the clamps and allow the pipe to come apart unharmed.

 

[DieselB59]

Mine was crimped beyond separating the pipes, and the truck had just over 1000 miles on it when I cut the old system off and put on the DPP Stainless system. I just have to say, the DPP system is by far the best engineered exhaust system I have personally come across. I'm glad I waited the month from when I got the truck until we got our first two '03 Dodge Stainless systems, because like waiting for the truck to be built, waiting for the DPP systems to arrive was well worth the wait.